They can be older "magnetic" types as well, as long as they are 1W or two wats
680 Ohm-8
1K -6
2.7k-2
15k-2
If you less , then required quantity I will take what you have. Resistors can be used but have to measure OK and the leads should be still long enough to mount on PCB. TIA. L
680 Ohm-8
1K -6
2.7k-2
15k-2
If you less , then required quantity I will take what you have. Resistors can be used but have to measure OK and the leads should be still long enough to mount on PCB. TIA. L
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They are available new, not cheap of course.
https://www.partsconnexion.com/shinkoh-1-watt-resistors.html
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/audio-note-tantalum-resistors.html
https://www.partsconnexion.com/shinkoh-1-watt-resistors.html
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/audio-note-tantalum-resistors.html
Yes, I know the "usual suspects" just trying to see if I can save a dime. It's a lot of money. I'm refurbing AN amps so there is no wiggle on components choice or amps will lose all the "appeal" to eventual buyers. (If I would want to get rid of them and since I'm perpetually broke thanks to the so-called hobby IT WILL HAPPEN eventually)
Why do you need to replace the resistors, even with another same but used part? Doesn't make sense.
They should last a very long time.
They should last a very long time.
I don't have to replace them it's just the former owner updated OPTS from IE cores to much more expensive C-Cores. and caps to copper PIO's (which are failing now along with bypass electrolytics). It changes the amps designation (and $$$) in AN hierarchy of things from standard to silver (or almost silver signature status since I'm not sure which model of opt is it (IHIB or SHIB) which requires at least 1W tantalum resistors and not beyshlag metal films. To keep up with AN nomenclature and preserve it's potential value to AN oriented buyer there is not much choice left. If it was a DIY amp I would not bother at all but with production amp and cult following customers, there is no room for wiggle .
PS 1k resistors can be substituted with anything from 800 Ohm to 1.5k since they are grid stoppers.
Makes little sense I know but that's what's there now and there are bazillion nuts out there putting 2W $50 each part instead 0.5 W ten cents resistors. I will likely leave those Bayshlags alone if I won't find cheap tant.
Can you post the circuit and component values? Is it just a common cathode and a cathode follower?
It's hard to argue with extremely successful business model. Blame the people. Naim crowd is the same or worse. I'm going to do this and I'm done with AN.
To buy those amps from AN now it would be like $20k or more.
Beware of sudden changes of preference of fickle audio people. You could be stuck with a bunch of overpriced inventory.
Only do this kind of stuff fully prepaid, where you have no money in parts that you have, including AN equipment as well.
Amps have to be repaired and re-tubed . Resistors are not the most expensive part of repair. They were repaired by a DIY kind of" hack " before, and DIY people's favorite SAMWHA cap costing close to nothing and sticking out like a sore thumb among Rubycon caps spilled it's guts. Instead of 6x5 rectifier in one monoblock there were SS diodes pushed into tube sockets and other "flowers " of successful" repairs"as well, mainly cheap substitutes differing between channels Mix and match or rather a mismatch. I will return amps to factory condition corresponding to a production level which relates to quality of output transformers. Those transformers are starting from $3k a pair for basic C- core model. I may not break even if I will have to sell them but at least I won't have to give them away and I will be sure they are reliable and have good quality components even if it is excessive I some regards.
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I use Shinkohs as grid stoppers in two preamps. When time allows will try to up those to the 2W versions and report here if anything worth reporting arises.
