Hello everyone, I have an NAD 1020 preamp I bought back in 1980, some time in the 90's the power switch stopped working- I made a lot of phone calls at the time but could not get an answer on a replacement switch, I finally just soldered in a jumper on the bad side of the switch,(double pole switch) it worked until I put it into storage, now using it again looks like the other side is going- light flickers when turning on- I've taken to leaving it on with the volume all the way down when not in use. Does anyone know where to get a suitable replacement switch? If not I'm thinking of jumpering altogether, otherwise the preamp is good- the pots were scratchy when I took it out of storage but I cleaned them up and all are good except for one spot on the balance pot which I never use anyway. Thanks for reading!
Remove the switch, read the maker and model then search on the gargler for a supplier/replacement or
here is a replacement; https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK/NE1839EE?qs=U2%2BV/zDE79GIQgtl4FQ0uQ==
Disconnect from any power source. Dissasemble as per the service manual to get at the switch.
Remove your old switch, see 1.png, remove clamp and fit clamp to new switch. Wire as described in wiring.png picture. Refit the clamp and gently crimp the lugs. Fit the new switch to the chassis and fix with the screws, that is it.
The switch was used in many appliances, TV, Stereo etc.
here is a replacement; https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK/NE1839EE?qs=U2%2BV/zDE79GIQgtl4FQ0uQ==
Disconnect from any power source. Dissasemble as per the service manual to get at the switch.
Remove your old switch, see 1.png, remove clamp and fit clamp to new switch. Wire as described in wiring.png picture. Refit the clamp and gently crimp the lugs. Fit the new switch to the chassis and fix with the screws, that is it.
The switch was used in many appliances, TV, Stereo etc.
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That's what I did with the one I had, many years ago when I knew even less that I do now. 🙂
jeff
If it was the actual switch "flickering", the amp would make a hellish racket.
Is the light a Neon? They flicker when they get old. Literally just calendar years. There is a pinch of radioactive in there to help them start, which in AC duty they do 100/120 times a second. As the radioactivity declines, the glow does not come on every half-cycle. Worse in the dark and better in bright light.
What planet do you come from.
All there is in a Neon is a vacuum with a controlled amount of Neon gas.
Add argon and it changes colour and was used for street lighting before LED days.
Add Zenon and it is a gas discharge headlamp for vehicles.
No precious metals or radioactive substances anywhere to be found in these.
D901 is an LED by the way and if it flickers the power supply is losing power intermittantly.
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@Jr100 - not sure where you're located but if you're in UK, and get stuck for the switch, I have a couple of the same (new) switch here, ex. Donberg https://www.donberg-electronics.com/descript/s/sw_171.htm, that I bought before Donberg pricing went insane... I could let you have one for the Mouser UK price (£11.15 + P&P) - assuming you're in UK.
The power switch in the 1020/3020/7020 is not that good. They break often.
When in use i never turned any of these off — still have 1020/7020, both need attention. Great sounding, execued with as cheap a parts as they could get away with.
dave
When in use i never turned any of these off — still have 1020/7020, both need attention. Great sounding, execued with as cheap a parts as they could get away with.
dave
Thanks Goldie, I'm in the USA, but thanks anyway. I've ordered the switch recommended by JonSnell above , should have it in a few days.
Yeah, some parts are definitely cheap in these, pretty bare bones but it still sounds great, still super quiet... except for the "hello hum" I've seen posts about on these and 3020s.