Hello,
Looking at building a REL T5X clone due to the positive reviews I've been reading. Can you recommend a plate amp and bass driver combo?
Requirements are:
1) Sealed box
2) 8" woofer
3) High level input
4) Not sure about the amp's power but I don't need much since my listening space is quite small (10ft X 12ft open back)
5) Plans with a proven design
I've built a few speakers, so the wood work is not a problem. I just need a woofer amp combo to come close to the abovementioned subwoofer.
Thanks for your imput.
Looking at building a REL T5X clone due to the positive reviews I've been reading. Can you recommend a plate amp and bass driver combo?
Requirements are:
1) Sealed box
2) 8" woofer
3) High level input
4) Not sure about the amp's power but I don't need much since my listening space is quite small (10ft X 12ft open back)
5) Plans with a proven design
I've built a few speakers, so the wood work is not a problem. I just need a woofer amp combo to come close to the abovementioned subwoofer.
Thanks for your imput.
No replies!! Let me rephrase my questions.
1) What plate amps brands are recommended. Are Dayton any good? Any others?
2) Which 8" woofer?
3) Where can I find proven box plans?
1) What plate amps brands are recommended. Are Dayton any good? Any others?
2) Which 8" woofer?
3) Where can I find proven box plans?
Greets!
Don't recall ever seeing any DIY powered 8" subs, so did an '8" powered subwoofer' search here and there's some info and inexpensive amp wise only have (good) experience with Hypex. Anyway do the search and recommend also doing a web search as there's probably going to be a lot more options on the dedicated DIY HT Forums.
Don't recall ever seeing any DIY powered 8" subs, so did an '8" powered subwoofer' search here and there's some info and inexpensive amp wise only have (good) experience with Hypex. Anyway do the search and recommend also doing a web search as there's probably going to be a lot more options on the dedicated DIY HT Forums.
Sealed will definitely be pretty output limited for a single 8 "sub" imo.
Plate amps:
On the cheap end, yung sd100 or yung sd300. For sealee, id probably get a "boost model"
Dayton also recently dropped a new plate amp line, the spa-d. Either the 100 or the 300w module could be qpplicable for your project.
The dayton spa250 dsp is probably the most flexible option, with full user configurable dsp onboard insteqd of a few knobs for rough control.
8 inch driver.... theres loads. Theres a few madisound 8s, thr mcm 8, a few dayton 8s. Sealed is pretty forgiving on driver specs. More excursion and more thermal powerhandling is better in most instances.
Plate amps:
On the cheap end, yung sd100 or yung sd300. For sealee, id probably get a "boost model"
Dayton also recently dropped a new plate amp line, the spa-d. Either the 100 or the 300w module could be qpplicable for your project.
The dayton spa250 dsp is probably the most flexible option, with full user configurable dsp onboard insteqd of a few knobs for rough control.
8 inch driver.... theres loads. Theres a few madisound 8s, thr mcm 8, a few dayton 8s. Sealed is pretty forgiving on driver specs. More excursion and more thermal powerhandling is better in most instances.
I was also looking at Hypex plate amps but was a bit turned off by all the programing involved or is that just for a few models?
I like their high level input connector, where the plate amp gets a direct signal from the amp.
Would you recommend them? Which model?
My listening space is small hence why the 8" woofer.
BTW let's not forget size of box and plans
I like their high level input connector, where the plate amp gets a direct signal from the amp.
Would you recommend them? Which model?
My listening space is small hence why the 8" woofer.
BTW let's not forget size of box and plans
Yeah, plans are on you. You can download a variety of free box design programs, hornresp, win isd, to name a few.
Prettttty hard to mess up a sealed box. And a sealed box can be very small. Only reason to sim it is to see how much you can give the driver before over excursion.
Prettttty hard to mess up a sealed box. And a sealed box can be very small. Only reason to sim it is to see how much you can give the driver before over excursion.
No clue, i.e. my experience was ages ago (2005-8?) with local DIY folk's build's performance/perceived build quality and not much setup, but this was long before ~inexpensive DSP. What impressed me most was it was the first Class D amp that I couldn't tell it was one from its performance plus it was so inexpensive compared to any so called budget 'HIFI' amp of similar power that it seemed to be too good to be true WRT longevity, though looks like it's passed the test of time.
I've been doing some homework and the Hypex FA251 1 way plate amp might be just what I'm looking for except maybe for programing the settings.
I believe a 4 or 8 ohms subwoofer can be used with the amp. I have read that a 4 ohms has better sound.??? Any suggestions for an 8" subwoofer?
I believe a 4 or 8 ohms subwoofer can be used with the amp. I have read that a 4 ohms has better sound.??? Any suggestions for an 8" subwoofer?
This is the perfect subwoofer for your project and probably even better than the REL's
https://sbacoustics.com/product/8in-sb23mfcl45-4/
https://sbacoustics.com/product/8in-sb23mfcl45-4/
Can't imagine why plus the more current drawn, the quicker the VC heats up, i.e. thermal power distortion.
Fishball79,
Would the SB be a good choice for a sealed box? I have read that a Qts >0.45 is best for a sealed enclosure.
What is the optimal box volume for this subwoofer?
Would the SB be a good choice for a sealed box? I have read that a Qts >0.45 is best for a sealed enclosure.
What is the optimal box volume for this subwoofer?
This is just a guide for the casual DIYer and doesn't include any series resistance, which will be at least 0.5 ohm for speaker wiring raises its calculated 0.344 Qts to 0.393 Qts'.
[Qts']: [Qts] + any added series resistance [Rs]: http://www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/newqts.html
[Rs] = 0.5 ohm minimum for wiring, so may be higher if a super small gauge is used as a series resistor and/or there's other series resistance.0.496 Qtc,
'Optimal' is a function of the needs of the app, though based on a guesstimated T5/X ~21.81 L net (Vb) and SB 0.393 Qts', the max flat sealed alignment is an ever so slightly over-damped ~0.496 Qtc (0.5 = transient perfect), 34.04 Hz Fc.
On paper, looks like a winner to me if the specs are reasonably accurate. 🙂
[Qts']: [Qts] + any added series resistance [Rs]: http://www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/newqts.html
[Rs] = 0.5 ohm minimum for wiring, so may be higher if a super small gauge is used as a series resistor and/or there's other series resistance.0.496 Qtc,
'Optimal' is a function of the needs of the app, though based on a guesstimated T5/X ~21.81 L net (Vb) and SB 0.393 Qts', the max flat sealed alignment is an ever so slightly over-damped ~0.496 Qtc (0.5 = transient perfect), 34.04 Hz Fc.
On paper, looks like a winner to me if the specs are reasonably accurate. 🙂
Madisound has reccomendations
(https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...cl45-4-8-polypropylene-cone-sub-woofer-4-ohm/)
Sealed box of 0.4 to 0.5 cubic feet for an F3 of 65Hz. You would need to use a bass boost or DSP to push the driver into lower frequencies. The F6 is 45Hz and F10 is 35Hz.
Vented box of 0.8 to 1.0 cubic feet with a 2" port by 8" long for an F3 of 35 to 32Hz.
SB themselves use this calculator to determine optimal cabinets
http://sbp.softica.dk/2.0/en/?id=4
GM,
1000 feet (305 meters) of 16 AWG stranded wire has around 4 ohms series resistance, a sub with a plate amp would not likely use more than 10 feet, series resistance would be around 0.04 ohms. The effect of a reasonably sized wire on QTS using an amp within the cabinet is of no consequence.
Art