Hello guys
I intend to build a subwoofer powered off a behringer nx4-6000. I'm planning on wiring the subs in series to 4ohm.
My question is.
1. Will two um18s wired in series dip below 4ohms.
2. The behringer in stereo is rated 2ohm 1600w and bridged 3200w at 4ohm. So will it be better running in stereo or bridged.
A detailed explanation would be fantastic as I am lacking in knowledge when it comes to ohm loads
Thanks guys
Steve
I intend to build a subwoofer powered off a behringer nx4-6000. I'm planning on wiring the subs in series to 4ohm.
My question is.
1. Will two um18s wired in series dip below 4ohms.
2. The behringer in stereo is rated 2ohm 1600w and bridged 3200w at 4ohm. So will it be better running in stereo or bridged.
A detailed explanation would be fantastic as I am lacking in knowledge when it comes to ohm loads
Thanks guys
Steve
In series, resistances add, so that part is straightforward.
In parallel, the total resistance gets smaller than the smallest individual value. Mathematically it's more complicated than the series case:
https://eepower.com/resistor-guide/resistor-applications/resistors-in-parallel/#
The woofer you referenced has dual 2-ohm coils. I can't tell from your post if you are talking about the two coils being in series and/or two woofers being in series also, if you missed the dual voice coil part, or if I'm misreading something.
For the amp scenario you describe in point 3, the load and power are both equivalent (assuming two 2-ohm loads in stereo vs a single 4-ohm load bridged). If you think about the amp outputs as being in series when bridged, you'll see that you basically have 2 ohms + 2 ohms = 4 ohms. And the stereo amp situation you describe is 1600 watts to each of those 2-ohm loads, which is again equivalent to 3200 watts total across a single 4 ohms.
You can get in trouble in bridged mode if you don't pay attention to the impedances though. That's why the amplifier is rated for 2 ohm loads in stereo, but only 4 ohms in bridged mode. A 2-ohm load in bridged mode presents the amplifier with the equivalent of a 1-ohm load in stereo, which is going to make it angry.
In parallel, the total resistance gets smaller than the smallest individual value. Mathematically it's more complicated than the series case:
https://eepower.com/resistor-guide/resistor-applications/resistors-in-parallel/#
The woofer you referenced has dual 2-ohm coils. I can't tell from your post if you are talking about the two coils being in series and/or two woofers being in series also, if you missed the dual voice coil part, or if I'm misreading something.
For the amp scenario you describe in point 3, the load and power are both equivalent (assuming two 2-ohm loads in stereo vs a single 4-ohm load bridged). If you think about the amp outputs as being in series when bridged, you'll see that you basically have 2 ohms + 2 ohms = 4 ohms. And the stereo amp situation you describe is 1600 watts to each of those 2-ohm loads, which is again equivalent to 3200 watts total across a single 4 ohms.
You can get in trouble in bridged mode if you don't pay attention to the impedances though. That's why the amplifier is rated for 2 ohm loads in stereo, but only 4 ohms in bridged mode. A 2-ohm load in bridged mode presents the amplifier with the equivalent of a 1-ohm load in stereo, which is going to make it angry.
Add another pair of UM18's then they could be wired for a single 4ohm or 2x2ohm load, that amp has enough juice to run 4 of them in these config's
Hello Harry. Thankyou for your time my friend it's much appreciated. Although it would seem your knowledge is above my comprehension 🙂. I was planning on putting the two subs in one box and wiring them both in series.. am I reading it correctly that I would be better putting them in separate boxes wired independently in series and running them in stereo?
Steve
Steve
When you build the sub just make sure all connectors have a terminal so you can play around with the different settings. As the driver is 2x2 ohm and the amp is 4 channels you can either bridge the amp and serial connect the dual coils on each side still having stereo at 4 ohm running two channels or you can run each coil with separate amp channel at 4x2 ohm still in stereo. The result will be the same 4x 1000 watt or 2x 2000 watt. Amp load will be the same. Distortion will be the same. Personally I would run 4 ohm stereo on a 2 channel amp. You have one more option and that is to serial connect both voicecoils with both sides at 8 ohm running mono but then you have the wrong amp leaving two channels unused. Another comment running stereo in the same box might not be a good idea as you may get some canceling and over excursion if the music material has oposite phase in the low regions. Usually label mastering avoids it but not always. You could have separation wall inside to prevent the canceling. But if you have terminals for all drivers you can play around and test. Whatever you do avoid parallel as you will fry the amp running 1 ohm.
Thankyou fab
I'm getting a slightly better understanding! A 4ohm driver will dip below 4ohm so better to run it in stereo with 2ohm capability? I always thought one just matched up the numbers ie 4ohm driver with 4ohm amplifier.. please correct me if I'm miss understanding your advice.
If this is the case I will build two boxes and wire the sub in series at 4ohm and run it in stereo 2ohm capable. I am considering purchasing 4 18inch dayton passive radiators ( 2 for each box unless one will sufficient?) so I can use smaller boxes l, let's say 250 litres.
Is this a better idea?
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your advice.. I couldn't get the amp working for months. Its been sat in the box. Recently purchased a cleanbox Pro to boost the signal from the denon 3400, info off you guys.. Now I have solved that issue I didn't want to be stuck on another for months. I'm a bricklayer by trade and its all I know! I was beginning to think I had made a big mistake starting this.
I'm getting a slightly better understanding! A 4ohm driver will dip below 4ohm so better to run it in stereo with 2ohm capability? I always thought one just matched up the numbers ie 4ohm driver with 4ohm amplifier.. please correct me if I'm miss understanding your advice.
If this is the case I will build two boxes and wire the sub in series at 4ohm and run it in stereo 2ohm capable. I am considering purchasing 4 18inch dayton passive radiators ( 2 for each box unless one will sufficient?) so I can use smaller boxes l, let's say 250 litres.
Is this a better idea?
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your advice.. I couldn't get the amp working for months. Its been sat in the box. Recently purchased a cleanbox Pro to boost the signal from the denon 3400, info off you guys.. Now I have solved that issue I didn't want to be stuck on another for months. I'm a bricklayer by trade and its all I know! I was beginning to think I had made a big mistake starting this.
The amp have four channels each capable of running 2 ohm but I don’t know how it performs at that (lower ohm usually means higher distortion). You have two drivers each with dual coils at two ohm. I think maybe the simplest case for you is to use all four channels, one per coil at 2 ohm. Or you could serial connect the dual coils to 4 ohm but as you would bridge the amp in practicality each channel would still see it as 2 ohm (same load and distortion). Personally I would never run anything at 2 ohm and I would normally buy 8 ohm single coil drivers for home use. I don’t know the Dayton driver by heart but to me it looks like an automotive sub. 4 ohm and 2 ohm is usually used in cars. A four channel amp is typically not used for subwoofers. I would rather buy two single coil 8 ohm subs and a dual channel amp running at 8 ohm. But now that you have bought it all I’m sure it will work just great anyway connecting directly. Someone else would have to help you on advice for the cabinet, and whether passive radiators are any good here. Depends on room size I guess.
Ah ha my apologies didn't I didnt click it was a 4ch amp, fabricadetabaco is correct 1 coil per channel will be fine.
fab the Dayton UM18 is designed for HT use with its low 19Hz Fs they are supposed to love a big ported box and get really low, but yes can be used in car as well, I have a pair of wee little tackers going in my car system(UM8's)
fab the Dayton UM18 is designed for HT use with its low 19Hz Fs they are supposed to love a big ported box and get really low, but yes can be used in car as well, I have a pair of wee little tackers going in my car system(UM8's)
