Hi everyone,
I'm designing a front panel for my headphone amplifier, and would like to inset a Neutrik XLR Series B chassis connector, so that it is flush except for the round receptacle. Does anyone know the corner radius? From the drawings I estimate 3,3 mm so thinking of going for 3,4-3,5.
Kind regards,
Roderick
I'm designing a front panel for my headphone amplifier, and would like to inset a Neutrik XLR Series B chassis connector, so that it is flush except for the round receptacle. Does anyone know the corner radius? From the drawings I estimate 3,3 mm so thinking of going for 3,4-3,5.
Kind regards,
Roderick
Based on the drawing if the corner of the flange is concentric with the screw hole, the radius would be 3.5mm (per the diagram the screw holes are spaced 19mm left to right and the whole flange is 26mm wide).
Always buy the parts and have them in your possession before committing to expensive chassis and pcbs.Hi everyone,
Does anyone know the corner radius? From the drawings I estimate 3,3 mm so thinking of going for 3,4-3,5.
Then you can confirm details like this by measurement. If it's not specified on the engineering drawing,
you can't be certain what you will get.
Believe me, it's from personal experience. How would you like to fab expensive pcbs according to
the data sheet specs, only to find out that the actual part (fresh from the distributor) does not fit
the board? The actual leads were too thick to fit the holes.
the data sheet specs, only to find out that the actual part (fresh from the distributor) does not fit
the board? The actual leads were too thick to fit the holes.
If your panel is thin, you can rear mount the XLR socket, just drilling a hole to accommodate the round flange of the housing.
This makes the whole connector flush except for the latch.
This looks very neat and also avoids feeding wires through the front panel, for service, the front panel can be removed without disconnecting wires.
As you are presumably milling a thicker panel, you can router the back instead. Then precise match of the rectangular socket doesn't matter.
This makes the whole connector flush except for the latch.
This looks very neat and also avoids feeding wires through the front panel, for service, the front panel can be removed without disconnecting wires.
As you are presumably milling a thicker panel, you can router the back instead. Then precise match of the rectangular socket doesn't matter.
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