I'd like to bond two sheets of 3/4" all wood plywood. For 1.50" low inertia sub boxes. I use white LePages contracter glue for just about everything else. Is there something made more for this purpose? A bottle costs $15 and doesn't go far when I laminate with it.
What about construction adhesive applied with a half inch notch trowel? I thought I remember a guy using a two part adhesive. What do the pros use?
I don't want the thing letting go and vibrating when the sub is in operation. Which did happen before lol.
What about construction adhesive applied with a half inch notch trowel? I thought I remember a guy using a two part adhesive. What do the pros use?
I don't want the thing letting go and vibrating when the sub is in operation. Which did happen before lol.
You should be asking how to clamp the two together during curing! Even 0.5psi clamping pressure equates to a ton of distributed load... You will need to vacuum bag these to have any chance of an even bond line, when good old PVA will be fine - it will be considerably stronger that the glue use to bond the laminations.
As an aside, you don't need such thick material if the enclosure is designed properly. If you simply want to stop it moving about, then a big lump of heavy material on top will do the trick for less effort and cost. Opposed drivers are a more costly option...
As an aside, you don't need such thick material if the enclosure is designed properly. If you simply want to stop it moving about, then a big lump of heavy material on top will do the trick for less effort and cost. Opposed drivers are a more costly option...
Simply buy a thicker sheet of plywood.
OR:
I don't think you need a full sheet, so cut first, and bond smaller pieces with standard PVA glue.
Regular wood working methods to hold the parts in place till adhesive is at full strength.
If you want to save adhesive costs in two part, add 50% grey or white Portland cement to the regular 24 hour curing 2 part epoxy.
It will be fully cured in 6 hours, and strength will be comparable to regular epoxy.
Saves a lot of money.
OR:
I don't think you need a full sheet, so cut first, and bond smaller pieces with standard PVA glue.
Regular wood working methods to hold the parts in place till adhesive is at full strength.
If you want to save adhesive costs in two part, add 50% grey or white Portland cement to the regular 24 hour curing 2 part epoxy.
It will be fully cured in 6 hours, and strength will be comparable to regular epoxy.
Saves a lot of money.
First begin with a face sheet of plywood of typically AC grade. The A side of course is sanded and knot free to become the outside of the cabinet.
Then you can use a lower finish quality sheet for the inside piece. But do not use any D grade surfaces.
Next in the inside sheet drill 5/32” holes approximately every 6”. For a full 4’ x 8’ sheet you will have a grid of holes starting 1” in from the edge. So on the 4’ run you should end up with 9 holes. Repeat 16 more times. This should give you a grid of 9 x 17 holes in the sheet intended to be inside the finished box.
Now use a thin nap latex paint roller to wet the mating surfaces of both sheets with clean water. Probably will take two quick passes to get the surfaces moist.
Now roll onto both surfaces PVA yellow or white glue (Do not use the fast drying variety) that has been thinned out to one part water to two parts glue. You might want to use a bit more water depending on the temperature of the glue.
Put both boards together aligned carefully. Use a pair of clamps on two closer corners to keep the boards aligned.
Now starting from one corner secure the boards to each other with 1 3/8” drywall screws. Start from a clamped corner and do a pattern out from the corner. Do not skip any holes as you screw things together. That way you can drive out any trapped air. Once you have four screws in you should be able to remove the clamp farthest from where you’ve started screwing things together.
Now rinse off your paint roller and store it inside two or three nested plastic bags to save for the next time.
Just as a side note you will need an electric screwdriver. Probably with a spare battery.
You can remove the screws after a full day of drying if they are in the way. But leave them in if you can.
Then you can use a lower finish quality sheet for the inside piece. But do not use any D grade surfaces.
Next in the inside sheet drill 5/32” holes approximately every 6”. For a full 4’ x 8’ sheet you will have a grid of holes starting 1” in from the edge. So on the 4’ run you should end up with 9 holes. Repeat 16 more times. This should give you a grid of 9 x 17 holes in the sheet intended to be inside the finished box.
Now use a thin nap latex paint roller to wet the mating surfaces of both sheets with clean water. Probably will take two quick passes to get the surfaces moist.
Now roll onto both surfaces PVA yellow or white glue (Do not use the fast drying variety) that has been thinned out to one part water to two parts glue. You might want to use a bit more water depending on the temperature of the glue.
Put both boards together aligned carefully. Use a pair of clamps on two closer corners to keep the boards aligned.
Now starting from one corner secure the boards to each other with 1 3/8” drywall screws. Start from a clamped corner and do a pattern out from the corner. Do not skip any holes as you screw things together. That way you can drive out any trapped air. Once you have four screws in you should be able to remove the clamp farthest from where you’ve started screwing things together.
Now rinse off your paint roller and store it inside two or three nested plastic bags to save for the next time.
Just as a side note you will need an electric screwdriver. Probably with a spare battery.
You can remove the screws after a full day of drying if they are in the way. But leave them in if you can.
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