Hi everyone and a Happy Easter weekend!
I just wanted to enquire if anyone knew where to point me in regards a re-cap on the NAD C 325BEE?
Here are some factors:
If diy route:
• I can solder but have not yet done smd
• I would need pretty tight instructions as I am not electronically trained but I’m not a ‘monkey’
• I have various soldering apparatus inc a variable temp station & desolder braid etc
if not diy route:
• a reliable person to undertake the above
additional factors:
• I am open to some improvements in the parts spec if it would give some benefit
• I do like the sound of the NAD C 325 BEE anyway l
• there seems to be some light ‘crackling’ in one channel which I have determined to be from the amp after switching source channels / speaker outputs round etc
This is the main reason I enquire about a re-cap + I understand that NAD did not use that good a quality caps to begin with in this amp (understandable given it’s price point when new).
I really want to keep this lovely and musical amp and like the idea of maintaining it and preventing a failure if possible.
many thanks in advance to any/all that may be able to assist.
cheers
Pete
I just wanted to enquire if anyone knew where to point me in regards a re-cap on the NAD C 325BEE?
Here are some factors:
If diy route:
• I can solder but have not yet done smd
• I would need pretty tight instructions as I am not electronically trained but I’m not a ‘monkey’
• I have various soldering apparatus inc a variable temp station & desolder braid etc
if not diy route:
• a reliable person to undertake the above
additional factors:
• I am open to some improvements in the parts spec if it would give some benefit
• I do like the sound of the NAD C 325 BEE anyway l
• there seems to be some light ‘crackling’ in one channel which I have determined to be from the amp after switching source channels / speaker outputs round etc
This is the main reason I enquire about a re-cap + I understand that NAD did not use that good a quality caps to begin with in this amp (understandable given it’s price point when new).
I really want to keep this lovely and musical amp and like the idea of maintaining it and preventing a failure if possible.
many thanks in advance to any/all that may be able to assist.
cheers
Pete
You'll need this.
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/nad/c325bee.shtml
Always first clean the pots, switches, connectors, and jacks with deoxit. Some problems will go away after cleaning.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-D...ocphy=9018914&hvtargid=pla-382003658380&psc=1
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/nad/c325bee.shtml
Always first clean the pots, switches, connectors, and jacks with deoxit. Some problems will go away after cleaning.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-D...ocphy=9018914&hvtargid=pla-382003658380&psc=1
Why recap an amplifier that is likely less than 15 years old? Modern caps may sometimes be cheaply manufactured by shoddy third parties but NAD at least now use genuine spec. parts which will last considerably longer, way in excess of their specified full power rating in hours and any significant drop in performance would show up at there first - a place you never go unless you like very loud and clipping audio sound effects.
You can exchange the electrolytic caps in your amp for newer ones but don't expect miracles unless some were actually faulty but these should have been tested as so before wasting money and time by effectively putting on blinkers and performing a needless blanket recap.
If you are inexperienced with modern and particularly budget grade PCBs, practice soldering and reflowing techniques first - it's too easy to damage a board that is primarily designed for fast, automated assembly. Hand rework really stresses the parts and bond between the copper foil traces, plating and substrate so you need to work fast and effectively with modern gear.
You can exchange the electrolytic caps in your amp for newer ones but don't expect miracles unless some were actually faulty but these should have been tested as so before wasting money and time by effectively putting on blinkers and performing a needless blanket recap.
If you are inexperienced with modern and particularly budget grade PCBs, practice soldering and reflowing techniques first - it's too easy to damage a board that is primarily designed for fast, automated assembly. Hand rework really stresses the parts and bond between the copper foil traces, plating and substrate so you need to work fast and effectively with modern gear.