Anyone have any experience opening up the rear of the cabinet? Several Screws removed but tolerance is so tight the panel does not want to come loose. Remarkable build quality but I need to access the tweeter which will not come loose either after removing its screws. Sure I can pry the tweeter or read panel but I risk damaging the veneer . Looking for suggestions . Thanks !
Tried that. No good as it doesn't screw into an insert, if I continue I will enlarge the hole leaving nothing for the original screw to hold on to. Appreciate the reply though. This thing is really bugging me. I have some plastic panel removal tools I tried but the sturdy ones will not fit into the extremely close tolerance gap between cabinet and rear panel. Same for the front where the tweeter mounts. The one tool that does fit is so thin it just bends. I thought for sure tugging on the binding posts would free it but no joy.
You want to use the bigger screw in just the panel you want to remove. The meat that gho;ds the back onto the box will be untouched.
dave
Someone suggested I go down the baffle with a blunt piece of wood to push the tweeter out of its hole and that worked. Was afraid to attempt it as Totem uses a plastic baffle tube on the tweeter s well. All good though. Then once out, I was able to use the same stick to push the back panel out through the tweeter hole. Appears all connections are proper and nothing looks wrong. So either the tweeter or the crossover caps. For the record the Mani-2's use a SEAS H607-6 ( 25 TB/GB-SO ) Which now after finding the end of the internet doesn't seem to come up anywhere as being available.Nothing on Madi's site and European folks don't seem promising either. Hopefully Totem has one laying around when I call them tomorrow. This is concerning. I appreciate your replies. Thank you !
I use an angled pick and pry behund the screw hole between the tweeter flange and the cabinet. Works every time. Lots of these speakers are put together while paint hasn't fully cured. That cements the drivers in place alot of time.
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Just for anyone who happens to be working on some of these old gems, similar to what A330 suggested above I was able to remove the rear panel by tapping thru the tweeter hole with a small chunk of wood and hammer. In my case the tweeter came out easily by simply removing the mounting screws.
Once tapped with the chunk of wood and a small hammer, the rear panel came out with ease, there seems to be a foam gasket between the rear baffle and main cabinet that was holding things up. Plus it's a tight fit in general.
Be careful when you re-install the rear baffle screws, they are simply threaded into the MDF so don't over-tighten or they will strip out.
I'm upgrading the stock Vishay ASLR Series tweeter resistors (10 and 22 ohm parralleled) to Mundorf Supreme, hence the reason for opening things up.
Once tapped with the chunk of wood and a small hammer, the rear panel came out with ease, there seems to be a foam gasket between the rear baffle and main cabinet that was holding things up. Plus it's a tight fit in general.
Be careful when you re-install the rear baffle screws, they are simply threaded into the MDF so don't over-tighten or they will strip out.
I'm upgrading the stock Vishay ASLR Series tweeter resistors (10 and 22 ohm parralleled) to Mundorf Supreme, hence the reason for opening things up.