Im building my first diy speakers and cant now decide howto proceed. I have pair of seas l22rnx/p(8" woofer), peerless 839903(5" midbass) and foundtek cd 2.0 (5" ribbon tweeter).
1. L22rnx spec. says 25-2000hz so basically I could do more simple 2way with fountek(2kHz crossover). But I have read that some says 3kHz would be better.
2 So I was thinking '3way' and 3kHz for peerless/fountek + biamp seas separately, use it for low bass freq only e.g. 100-120hz. Some old posts says also that with fountek its good to have "small" 4-5" midbass so would 2way work with seas 8"? And what you think about 3way option?
Of course I could try both options but I can build only 1 speaker cabinets.
1. L22rnx spec. says 25-2000hz so basically I could do more simple 2way with fountek(2kHz crossover). But I have read that some says 3kHz would be better.
2 So I was thinking '3way' and 3kHz for peerless/fountek + biamp seas separately, use it for low bass freq only e.g. 100-120hz. Some old posts says also that with fountek its good to have "small" 4-5" midbass so would 2way work with seas 8"? And what you think about 3way option?
Of course I could try both options but I can build only 1 speaker cabinets.
I don't know what those first two drivers are. Never heard of them. And I know SEAS and Peerless quite well.
The ribbon Fountek NeoCD 2.0 tweeter is a known quantity:
Interesting review. Can be crossed at 2kHz, but better at 3kHz. Says MTM to me.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/VifaPL14WJ-R2604.htm
The ribbon Fountek NeoCD 2.0 tweeter is a known quantity:
Interesting review. Can be crossed at 2kHz, but better at 3kHz. Says MTM to me.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/VifaPL14WJ-R2604.htm
These are your first? Why would you choose such a complex task as designing and building a 3-way? Practice on easier challenges (2-way midbass and 1” dome design), get yourself measuring equipment and a few good books to read.
Definitely Bi-Amp if you have the second amp already and have or can make the XO.
Passive crossovers for bass are not cost effective at low frequencies.
No comment on the tweeter as I'm not familiar with them but personally I'd be looking at bass to mid XO about 250/300Hz for better power handling lower distortion in the midrange. I use the cheap but effective Beringer units for this purpose.
What pre-amp are you using?
You could learn to measure or just do what I did and jump in the deep end after reading a couple of books.
My first speaker was a simple 3-way but using cheap good enough/ smooth enough drivers , none of which would be available now as Tandy/RadioShack are no more. It's woodwork I have trouble with. Good looking furniture with high WAF is hard
Passive crossovers for bass are not cost effective at low frequencies.
No comment on the tweeter as I'm not familiar with them but personally I'd be looking at bass to mid XO about 250/300Hz for better power handling lower distortion in the midrange. I use the cheap but effective Beringer units for this purpose.
What pre-amp are you using?
You could learn to measure or just do what I did and jump in the deep end after reading a couple of books.
My first speaker was a simple 3-way but using cheap good enough/ smooth enough drivers , none of which would be available now as Tandy/RadioShack are no more. It's woodwork I have trouble with. Good looking furniture with high WAF is hard
Clarification of the drivers would help.
Pix and factory specifications please/
@system7 possibly OEM by Peerless/SEAS for some specific maker. Surplus and over-runs often have non standard part numbers.
but XOs in the 300 to 3000 span are pretty standard using 8" + mid and tweeter, sometimes the mid can take a broader cut of the spectrum especially if using Bi-Amping and good smooth drivers, 200 to 4000 can sound the goods with a great midrange driver
Pix and factory specifications please/
@system7 possibly OEM by Peerless/SEAS for some specific maker. Surplus and over-runs often have non standard part numbers.
but XOs in the 300 to 3000 span are pretty standard using 8" + mid and tweeter, sometimes the mid can take a broader cut of the spectrum especially if using Bi-Amping and good smooth drivers, 200 to 4000 can sound the goods with a great midrange driver
The Seas is probally this one:
http://www.seas.no/index.php?option...rnxp&catid=44:utv-prestige-woofers&Itemid=238
I would not cross it higher than 600Hz, so that push you to a 3 way. The Peerless i don't know and i don't find any info about it, so i can't tell it's a good one. That fountek is good if crossed above 2500Hz i hear, so that mid would have to cover at least the 600-2500Hz region. If yours does, i can't tell.
http://www.seas.no/index.php?option...rnxp&catid=44:utv-prestige-woofers&Itemid=238
I would not cross it higher than 600Hz, so that push you to a 3 way. The Peerless i don't know and i don't find any info about it, so i can't tell it's a good one. That fountek is good if crossed above 2500Hz i hear, so that mid would have to cover at least the 600-2500Hz region. If yours does, i can't tell.
Actually I have been playing many years with active/passive speakers & subs(not diy). Now I would like to get some smooth mid and 'oomph' to the bass side (without sub). Currently I have Creek Evo 2 & Crown XLS 1500(with xover). So based on my earlier experience; woofer might work little bit better if its cut with low freq.(100-200Hz)
Speaker setup: Mid & tweeter would be 2way e.g. 3 or 4kHz (drived with creek&passive xover) and seas 8" woofer(crown x-over 100-150Hz (easy adjustable)). So no lowPass filter for peerless.
I was thinking mtm also as option but I dont like of the way it looks. 🙂
Peerless spec.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0323/4617/7675/files/P830903SpecSheetRev12014-8-5.pdf?v=1596907572
@waxx your seas link is correct
And the speaker cabinet could be quite similar as this one: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SBA-741.htm
but only if you guys confirm that my idea is not totally stupid.
I have also ECM8000 mic so the plan is to test different crossover params and get some nice Hz curves.
Speaker setup: Mid & tweeter would be 2way e.g. 3 or 4kHz (drived with creek&passive xover) and seas 8" woofer(crown x-over 100-150Hz (easy adjustable)). So no lowPass filter for peerless.
I was thinking mtm also as option but I dont like of the way it looks. 🙂
Peerless spec.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0323/4617/7675/files/P830903SpecSheetRev12014-8-5.pdf?v=1596907572
@waxx your seas link is correct
And the speaker cabinet could be quite similar as this one: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SBA-741.htm
but only if you guys confirm that my idea is not totally stupid.
I have also ECM8000 mic so the plan is to test different crossover params and get some nice Hz curves.
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now i see the Peerless specs i would say 200hz (peerless sealed cabinet) and 2.5kHz to the Fountek, not much higher as you will have directivity errors if you do it dus to the dispertion of the peerless.
Well yes, I was thinking if 3-way could give some more performance with mid&low Hz. And as engineer I have used todo things from most difficult end. Currently I have already all 6 speaker parts @home. Actually I was more thinking if peerless mid is good combination with 2 other elements and if not then I could do 2-way or purchase 2x Seas L22/do mtm with 8"(2kHz). Im also not 100% sure if Crown PA-amp is good combination with Creek pre-out but I will test it anyway. FYI: signal is coming to Creek rca's from smsl m8 Dac/Raspberry hifi(coax)/Apple Music losless via Iphone as remote control->very handy & cheap
3 ways are easier to get right, because you're not running the drivers as close to their limits, and you end up with a higher quality result, particularly if the woofer-mid crossover point is set at the baffle step frequency.
Yes, good point! I already forgot that read this some days as well that its good to keep 'low'kHz e.g. 2.5kHz for the dispertion. Actually Fountek spec.(included in the box) says that it should be XO with 2kHz/2nd order and in some net pages specs are nowadays saying 2.5kHz. I will test 200Hz and also without lowpass filter <- this one I read that mid speaker might work better in case its not filtered with lowpass. So only woofer is then filtered with 100-200Hz.