Hey guys
I thought I'd share the dual 10" subwoofer enclosure I'm building for my 2 channel setup at home. It is being build from a 10-3/4" piece of schedule 80 steel pipe, this is because I absolutely hate everything about woodworking and I'm very good at working with steel. I'll be using a pair of Hertz Mille ML2500 drivers I've had kicking around for ages, I'll be powering them with a Behringer EPX2800 pro audio amplifier.
The large tube will be cut to accept the smaller tubes and they will be recessed so they only stick out about an inch. The excess material left on the inside will be cut off after everything is welded. I will be getting steel rings laser cut to mount the drivers to.
I will post up my blueprints tomorrow to give a better idea of exactly what I'm doing.
I thought I'd share the dual 10" subwoofer enclosure I'm building for my 2 channel setup at home. It is being build from a 10-3/4" piece of schedule 80 steel pipe, this is because I absolutely hate everything about woodworking and I'm very good at working with steel. I'll be using a pair of Hertz Mille ML2500 drivers I've had kicking around for ages, I'll be powering them with a Behringer EPX2800 pro audio amplifier.
The large tube will be cut to accept the smaller tubes and they will be recessed so they only stick out about an inch. The excess material left on the inside will be cut off after everything is welded. I will be getting steel rings laser cut to mount the drivers to.
I will post up my blueprints tomorrow to give a better idea of exactly what I'm doing.
Attachments
All this cost me less than a sheet of plywood, it is overkill but it was the only thickness my metal shop had.
On the plus side cabinet flex won't be an issue.
Gallo and Bazooka and others did tube subs but they use a composite material like PVC.
That should work fine. Treat the inside with dynamat.
I would hate to be the one moving it around.
Gallo and Bazooka and others did tube subs but they use a composite material like PVC.
That should work fine. Treat the inside with dynamat.
I would hate to be the one moving it around.
I bet it works really good but wow!! is it gonna be heavy
Schedule 80 is 0.500”wall in that size I think?? Beast
Schedule 80 is 0.500”wall in that size I think?? Beast
One on each end? Or Your burning a cope into it for each driver to mount in another shape welded onto the ‘big’ pipe? I need a biggger screen or glasses soon😃 going blind and getting old
I'll be tracing the driver mounting tubes onto the larger pipe and cutting holes so they can slide inside. If you can zoom in on the picture you'll get a better understanding.
There were a few guys with the idea of using concrete over time https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/sub-enclosure-made-out-of-concrete.65886/
I remember one guy planned to "pour" his subs (lol pour subs) at the same time he was pouring the slab that was to become his basement floor. To make them one with the floor.
I don't know how you would go about tuning them, you almost always have to change the sub/s location/s a few times. In order to get them to sound just right.
I remember one guy planned to "pour" his subs (lol pour subs) at the same time he was pouring the slab that was to become his basement floor. To make them one with the floor.
I don't know how you would go about tuning them, you almost always have to change the sub/s location/s a few times. In order to get them to sound just right.
Brandon,
You won't have to worry about magnetic interference with CRT TV screens using that enclosure ;^).
Will you be tapping out threaded screw holes in the laser cut steel rings for attaching the drivers?
You won't have to worry about magnetic interference with CRT TV screens using that enclosure ;^).
Will you be tapping out threaded screw holes in the laser cut steel rings for attaching the drivers?
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That is the obvious way. If you cut the sides you lose a lot of the strength of the tube. Not that that is really an issue given the thickness, but mounting push-ush on the ends gains huge advantage do to the active reaction force cancelation.
Seems silly to me to not take the easy route.
dave
Yeah Mr Dave, after doing that legitimately (not alternate versions of it as just flipped motor in and out and polarity swapped ) there’s no turning back. Anything I have now that has a single subwoofer driver annoys me And it has a limited time before it will eventually get swapped into a doubler version .
I built concerete sub long time ago when i lived in czechoslovakia, with four 10" woofers, two pairs in isobaric configuration. Worked very well, still does, my brother is using it. Was quite compact, performed very well, it took two people to move it.
Some still might need the "Z" axis added to the X&Y before they understand what you are going to do with the cylinder intersection.
Yes this is exactly what I'm planning haha, thanks for the picture. I don't use 3D modeling software so my prints are a little tougher to understand.
I would call tht scheme a big waste of time. It will work but not near as well as mounting on the ends.
The greatest asset of the cylinder is its shape and you are going to (mostly) throw that out.
dave
The greatest asset of the cylinder is its shape and you are going to (mostly) throw that out.
dave
If it's strength you're concerned about I can promise that won't be an issue. Otherwise I'm all ears.
Strenth shouldn’t be an issue, but the benifits of push-push cannot be underestimated.
And, completely personally, i dislike th ecosmetics of a cylindrical mount perpendicular to the main tube is ugly I hate the looks of the B&Ws (among others) that do this.
dave
And, completely personally, i dislike th ecosmetics of a cylindrical mount perpendicular to the main tube is ugly I hate the looks of the B&Ws (among others) that do this.
dave
