It's a bit strange that I can't find wattage specs for Nad 325BEE's @ 4 ohm, were they just not published? I just know they are rated 50 for 8.
Anyone know? I'm going to try biamping these and would it be fine to use two amps with fixed gains that have that large of a gap in output ratings?
I knew the stratus line wasn't the most efficient having had silveri before. The mini are 88 db efficiency to be specific https://content-psbspeakers-com.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/2021/03/stratus_brochure.pdf 250x2 hardly seems as strong while straight wiring them with the standard factory jumpers. I bet the mini would like two of the larger amps. Thats 500 per side if you weren't keeping track. It seems a little crazy for such small 2 ways.
I also noticed the amp gets quite a bit toastier temperature wise while playing the psb minis. Configured that way. Its always stayed luke warm prior to these. After playing it for hours, despite weather the speakers were 4 or 8 ohms. I consistently use both types.
Anyone know? I'm going to try biamping these and would it be fine to use two amps with fixed gains that have that large of a gap in output ratings?
I knew the stratus line wasn't the most efficient having had silveri before. The mini are 88 db efficiency to be specific https://content-psbspeakers-com.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/2021/03/stratus_brochure.pdf 250x2 hardly seems as strong while straight wiring them with the standard factory jumpers. I bet the mini would like two of the larger amps. Thats 500 per side if you weren't keeping track. It seems a little crazy for such small 2 ways.
I also noticed the amp gets quite a bit toastier temperature wise while playing the psb minis. Configured that way. Its always stayed luke warm prior to these. After playing it for hours, despite weather the speakers were 4 or 8 ohms. I consistently use both types.
Attachments
It is rated the same for 4 and 8 ohms for continuous power at clipping.
However there is no 4 ohm spec listed for continuous power, all of which implies inadequate
thermal design to produce long term power at 4 ohms.
POWER AMP SECTION
Continuous output power into 8Ω 50W (17dBW)
Clipping power (maximum continuous power per channel 4Ω and 8Ω) 68W
IHF Dynamic headroom 8Ω +3.4dB 4Ω +5.0dB
IHF dynamic power (maximum short term power per channel)
8Ω 110W (20.4dBW) 4Ω 160W (22.0dBW) 2Ω 210W (23.2dBW)
However there is no 4 ohm spec listed for continuous power, all of which implies inadequate
thermal design to produce long term power at 4 ohms.
POWER AMP SECTION
Continuous output power into 8Ω 50W (17dBW)
Clipping power (maximum continuous power per channel 4Ω and 8Ω) 68W
IHF Dynamic headroom 8Ω +3.4dB 4Ω +5.0dB
IHF dynamic power (maximum short term power per channel)
8Ω 110W (20.4dBW) 4Ω 160W (22.0dBW) 2Ω 210W (23.2dBW)
Power and gain are two different things. You will need to put a gain pot(s) on the amp with the most gain. That is not necessarily the amp with the most power. Does your electronic crossover not have output controls? You probably want to use the larger (power) amp for the bass. And the speaker sensitivity may use up some amp gain. For non-professional use, 2.1 is a better idea than bi-amping. More than about 10 Watts into a tweeter will let out the magic smoke.
I have a couple DAC options, one with a bbuilt in pre, the other passive, and the class A preamp in the Nad. Nothing that offers me options to separate two variable gains.
Unless I just try making it active, with a DSP mini. The ones that you control with a PC loaded with its program. I have enough amplifiers for it but I wasn't exactly planning to dig into these speakers just yet because I like how they sound and can't mess that up.
I believe active will release more energy just by eliminating the passive crossovers. These "mini" speakers are pigs. They play nice and loud. I feel its more limited than it was a week ago. If I were to try active I would rather have a large 4 channel Parasound, or something other than I have thats more suited. I think it's a good option to try later down the road.
Unless I just try making it active, with a DSP mini. The ones that you control with a PC loaded with its program. I have enough amplifiers for it but I wasn't exactly planning to dig into these speakers just yet because I like how they sound and can't mess that up.
I believe active will release more energy just by eliminating the passive crossovers. These "mini" speakers are pigs. They play nice and loud. I feel its more limited than it was a week ago. If I were to try active I would rather have a large 4 channel Parasound, or something other than I have thats more suited. I think it's a good option to try later down the road.