Yamaha A-S701

C469 and C470 for instance. C430 and C431....Also a bit depending on what sources you use...

It would be best IF you decide on replacing stuff to replace all the electrolytic caps from the often chosen inputs of the device to the power amplifier.
 
You can use Soviet era caps or whatever... first determine the values and numbers from your often chosen inputs to the power amp AND their physical properties like pitch.

From electrolytic caps to electrolytic caps is not the most shocking upgrade to do .... Maybe you could use film caps as the pitch of the small values is 5 mm. The in this device often used value 10 µF 16V exists as film cap with 5 mm pitch. True upgrade.
 
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Wima MKS2 (previously called MKS2-XL) are available as 5 mm caps. Even MKS is better than the better electrolytic caps in many cases and they don't deteriorate with age.

The 50V version is slightly more universal/better but it is quite wide with 11 mm and it does not fit everywhere. It seems the 16V version is out of production but still available here and there.

The 50V version for normal prices:

https://www.reichelt.de/de/de/folienkondensator-10-f-50v-rm5-mks2-50-10--p172683.html?r=1
If you check the parts list you can see many 10 µF 16V caps are also listed as 4.7 µF 50V BG (do they mean Black Gate?). That value is more handy in MKS2 too. If 4.7 µF is used the -3 dB point still below 10 Hz so no worries.

https://www.reichelt.com/de/en/wima-film-capacitor-rm-5-mm-4-7-f-mks2-50-4-7--p31930.html

Please note the picture of the rare 10 µF 16V 🙂
 
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I know. Better sounding as well and no more replacement after that. Win-win. Slight drawback is the copper clad steel wires of current production Wima MKS2 so pre-tin those beforehand. Most electrolytic caps of today also have tinned steel wires.

At this point someone will tell that Wima sucks etc. Don't mind that, even the most standard Wima MKS/MKT film cap outperforms the "better" electrolytic caps for coupling purposes.
 
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