Hi,
I these days I'am planning to build a home theatre speakers 5.1 ( 2 front, 2 rear, 1 center)
My plan is use:
Woofer: 1 x Seas L18RNXP ( 8 ohm)
http://www.seas.no/index.php?option...le&id=75:h1224-08-l18rnxp&catid=44&Itemid=461
Tweeter: 1 x Visaton ke 25 ( 8 ohm)
https://www.visaton.de/en/products/drivers/dome-tweeters/ke-25-sc-8-ohm
with crossover frequency of 2.2 Khz for all boxs (front, rear and center).
The problem is the center channel where I need 2 x Seas L18RNXP and the impedence will be 4 ohm and not 8 ohm like I need.
Francally I don't known how solve this problem becouse I like that all boxs produce the some sound if is possible.
Theorically I can insert a 4 ohm resistor in series between the two woofer and the crossover, but I don't like this type of solution.
Another solution can be use only one Seas L18RNXP and put the center channel in vertical, but I never seen a solution like this.
Can you please suggest me a better solution ?
Thanks !!
I these days I'am planning to build a home theatre speakers 5.1 ( 2 front, 2 rear, 1 center)
My plan is use:
Woofer: 1 x Seas L18RNXP ( 8 ohm)
http://www.seas.no/index.php?option...le&id=75:h1224-08-l18rnxp&catid=44&Itemid=461
Tweeter: 1 x Visaton ke 25 ( 8 ohm)
https://www.visaton.de/en/products/drivers/dome-tweeters/ke-25-sc-8-ohm
with crossover frequency of 2.2 Khz for all boxs (front, rear and center).
The problem is the center channel where I need 2 x Seas L18RNXP and the impedence will be 4 ohm and not 8 ohm like I need.
Francally I don't known how solve this problem becouse I like that all boxs produce the some sound if is possible.
Theorically I can insert a 4 ohm resistor in series between the two woofer and the crossover, but I don't like this type of solution.
Another solution can be use only one Seas L18RNXP and put the center channel in vertical, but I never seen a solution like this.
Can you please suggest me a better solution ?
Thanks !!
The visaton KE 25 SC I have already used it in my hi end 2 channel system and I'am very satisfied with the result and I like to use it.
The Seas L18RNXP seem interesting ( but I don't never listen it) and match my budget, however I can choose other if necessary.
Both are 8 ohm and seem to have a flat frequency response, low distortion and raccomanded for two way system like in case.
The Seas L18RNXP seem interesting ( but I don't never listen it) and match my budget, however I can choose other if necessary.
Both are 8 ohm and seem to have a flat frequency response, low distortion and raccomanded for two way system like in case.
One woofer, one tweeter. Vertical is absolutely the correct way to for it. You don't see it because it is not "sexy" or someone does not have room under the TV. You can make the center more squat if space is a problem though the baffle step may be different so not identical crossovers.
Secondary reason is companies can charge more for MTM than TM. $ound, not Sound. Make all 5 identical.
Secondary reason is companies can charge more for MTM than TM. $ound, not Sound. Make all 5 identical.
Look at the SB woofers. A little smaller boxes and they seem to do pretty well. I run Seas ER18's in my stereo, but doing SB in my HT. Easier to use I think. (Might look upline to the Satori too, or the CSS, but it is a 7 incher, so really need a 1 1/8 tweeter or a midrange. Purifi come in a 5 or 7, worth a look) I am not a fan of metal cones, having dealt with so many Dayton RS series. Limited to too steep of crossovers. I am back to paper mostly.
Looking up the tweeter as I do not know it. Darn companies, half truth! Response looks good but you have no idea of the breakup as they stop their graph at 20K. I consider this a lie by omission. Some of these ceramics can push them into the 30's and are easier to deal with, some go to hell right @ 20K. If high enough just a Zobel can be enough to roll them off. Others need a low Q LP to tame them. Seas metals I start @ about 16K, Lossy first order. Got to keep those harmonics away from the breakup. 40 dB at least. This is to reduce IM with the resulting sub harmonics you can hear.
I might be tempted to cross as low as 2K, but would need to test HD @ 96 dB first. My benchmark, where it turns the corner due to displacement. By it's power rating, it may have quite a large X-max. It is not common over here and seems to be out of stock most places. I was considering the 1 1/8 peerless.
I might be tempted to cross as low as 2K, but would need to test HD @ 96 dB first. My benchmark, where it turns the corner due to displacement. By it's power rating, it may have quite a large X-max. It is not common over here and seems to be out of stock most places. I was considering the 1 1/8 peerless.
Yes, that's true, but as for other users I don't have space under the TV, I can use a woofer, a tweeter and box horizontally but this is another compromise that I can accept if there is no other solution.
Not much of a problem if you pay attention to the crossover. You could look into a TMT, but that gets pricy with our pick
Faital makes the 6FE200 in 4,8 and 16 ohm version. Not performing like Seas, it would require a re-think of the subwoofer(s).
Is not easy find to find a 16 ohm woofer with similar characteristics of the seas.
To choose this seas I have compared many woofers in term of sensibility, frequency response, impedence, distortion, power, price, etc... and this at the moment seem one of the best candidate.
So at this point I think to use only one woofer for center channel and keep it horizontally.
The downside is aesthetic with the tweeter on the left and the woofer on the right or viceversa.
I need I tip:
For your opinion is better add a front grill ? or keep it as it ?
If yes where I can find it ?
What you do if you are in my place ?
To choose this seas I have compared many woofers in term of sensibility, frequency response, impedence, distortion, power, price, etc... and this at the moment seem one of the best candidate.
So at this point I think to use only one woofer for center channel and keep it horizontally.
The downside is aesthetic with the tweeter on the left and the woofer on the right or viceversa.
I need I tip:
For your opinion is better add a front grill ? or keep it as it ?
If yes where I can find it ?
What you do if you are in my place ?
Nothing wrong with grill cloths. Plain old double-knit cloth. You can make a frame as long as it has nice radiuses it won't cause undue diffraction issues. I thought about putting a 1/2 inch layer of felt on the baffle to block the frame completely, but for HT use, figgured it was overkill.
I did an MTM using 4 Ohm SB's in series and a DXT. My mains are RS150's with Seas Tb something what ever. Anthem ARC does a fine job with the eq so there is no change in personality as the sound moves.
Most AVRs do not like 4 Ohms, so I sure would not target a 4 Ohm design. Distortion rises as current increases, another reason to build higher impedance. You do need enough swing. Easier to amplify voltage than current.
Note, even with identical speakers, the proximity of the screen and lower cabinet will change the baffle step. So you may want to voice the center differently, or let whatever AVR EQ take care of it.
I did an MTM using 4 Ohm SB's in series and a DXT. My mains are RS150's with Seas Tb something what ever. Anthem ARC does a fine job with the eq so there is no change in personality as the sound moves.
Most AVRs do not like 4 Ohms, so I sure would not target a 4 Ohm design. Distortion rises as current increases, another reason to build higher impedance. You do need enough swing. Easier to amplify voltage than current.
Note, even with identical speakers, the proximity of the screen and lower cabinet will change the baffle step. So you may want to voice the center differently, or let whatever AVR EQ take care of it.