Hi
Been away for quite some time. Thinking now I really want to build a new set of speakers.
The build I'm thinking about is the Faital 3WC-10 from Troels Gravesen. I find several builds of the 3wc-12 and the 3wc-15, but none of the 3wc-10.
Reason for choosing the 3wc-10 is size.
Is there anyone here that has built this?
Will it sound more or less the same as it's bigger "brothers"?
Been away for quite some time. Thinking now I really want to build a new set of speakers.
The build I'm thinking about is the Faital 3WC-10 from Troels Gravesen. I find several builds of the 3wc-12 and the 3wc-15, but none of the 3wc-10.
Reason for choosing the 3wc-10 is size.
Is there anyone here that has built this?
Will it sound more or less the same as it's bigger "brothers"?
The 3WC-10 was only release at the end of July last year and so is quite a new design from Troels. There are two builds on his site to look at - http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Builder's_response.htm
Hi goggesen.
I have decided to build them. Ordered the kit with Jantzen (lvl 2 + tweeters) and the 10RS350 drivers. The 6R140 are hard to get at the moment. Received message that these should be available again in February (Blue Aran). The Tweeters are also low on supply. Jantzen has them on a backorder so will only receive the parts + tweeters somewhere in April as it looks right now.
I'm planning on starting the build of the cabinets prior to that. I will simulate the cabinet in OnShape so I can play with the correct dimensions. 20mm plywood is locally not supplied. So will work with 18mm and bitumen pads. Planning on using HDF for the baffle. That can be delivered in 22 mm. Also considering that they will be 10 mm less thick leaving 12mm for the screws to secure the woofer. I will add some additional support here as suggested by Troels. These woofers are 4.2 kg with only 4 screws.
I'm thinking of checking the bracing with Troels. Also the separate compartment for the tweeter. The 3WC-12 has a separate tweeter compartment but the 3WC-10 version not. So not sure if that will make a difference.
I have decided to build them. Ordered the kit with Jantzen (lvl 2 + tweeters) and the 10RS350 drivers. The 6R140 are hard to get at the moment. Received message that these should be available again in February (Blue Aran). The Tweeters are also low on supply. Jantzen has them on a backorder so will only receive the parts + tweeters somewhere in April as it looks right now.
I'm planning on starting the build of the cabinets prior to that. I will simulate the cabinet in OnShape so I can play with the correct dimensions. 20mm plywood is locally not supplied. So will work with 18mm and bitumen pads. Planning on using HDF for the baffle. That can be delivered in 22 mm. Also considering that they will be 10 mm less thick leaving 12mm for the screws to secure the woofer. I will add some additional support here as suggested by Troels. These woofers are 4.2 kg with only 4 screws.
I'm thinking of checking the bracing with Troels. Also the separate compartment for the tweeter. The 3WC-12 has a separate tweeter compartment but the 3WC-10 version not. So not sure if that will make a difference.
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Pretty sure I will start ordering parts soon. Winter, snow and ice here, so waiting for spring to come
Did you get all your parts?
It is maybe too late to answer your questions but, it is an opportunity to share our impressions.
I've built the Faital 3WC-10 one month ago and I'm using them with 2 SE monoblocks of 20w each (and tested with UcD 180 w).
It is not my first "TG's" built and I previously owned Cornscala (just before).
However I can not compared to the 3WC-12.
TG described them as "Dynamic and with a degree of 3-dimensionality".
Coming from Cornscala, the dynamic did not impressed me that much (apples and oranges, sorry). 3D is very dependant on the placement and I did not spend much time for that.
Im my room, these speakers are very "pleasant". They don't do anything wrong. Easy listenning, for every kind of music. Transparent but not agressive at all. The highs are "polite". I do not have the Be dome by the way.
If I could tune something, it would be the transient attack. It has not the punch that you could expect for that amount of money. Not fast enough IMO.
Maybe the 12" or the 15" are doing better. If I could start again, I'll go for the 12" or even the 15" if you have enough room.
But, do not get me wrong, they are excellent speakers.
It is maybe too late to answer your questions but, it is an opportunity to share our impressions.
I've built the Faital 3WC-10 one month ago and I'm using them with 2 SE monoblocks of 20w each (and tested with UcD 180 w).
It is not my first "TG's" built and I previously owned Cornscala (just before).
However I can not compared to the 3WC-12.
TG described them as "Dynamic and with a degree of 3-dimensionality".
Coming from Cornscala, the dynamic did not impressed me that much (apples and oranges, sorry). 3D is very dependant on the placement and I did not spend much time for that.
Im my room, these speakers are very "pleasant". They don't do anything wrong. Easy listenning, for every kind of music. Transparent but not agressive at all. The highs are "polite". I do not have the Be dome by the way.
If I could tune something, it would be the transient attack. It has not the punch that you could expect for that amount of money. Not fast enough IMO.
Maybe the 12" or the 15" are doing better. If I could start again, I'll go for the 12" or even the 15" if you have enough room.
But, do not get me wrong, they are excellent speakers.
Well, as mentioned either 20w SE blocks or 180w UcD were tested and it was not nights and days. But 10" and 15" are different animals....
Hi Aconitic,
Thanks for sharing your experiences with the Faital 3WC-10. No way back for me right now since I ordered all the parts. Just waiting for the shipment from Jantzen. Just out of curiosity, did you use a lvl 1 or 2 x-over? I ordered lvl2 since the price difference is so significant.
Thanks for sharing Aconitic! Im getting ready to build the 3WC-10, just waiting for them to come into stock again.
I landed on 10" just by considering the physical size of the speaker, as they will end up in our living room, they need to have WAF.
Troels praised the 10" to be similar/equal to 12", just different efficiency ?
I landed on 10" just by considering the physical size of the speaker, as they will end up in our living room, they need to have WAF.
Troels praised the 10" to be similar/equal to 12", just different efficiency ?
I didn't have the chance to compare 10" and 12" side by side. I guess that they are quite similar, indeed. I've chosen the 10" to better fit my living room, as you did. My cornscala were ...so big... Maybe the Faital 15" have more punch. But too big again. Hi-fi is a question of compromise...
I am also considering the 10" and then I might get 2 Subs to make a 1,6,10,12 speaker and put a highpass filter on the 3WC. I was also considering the Discovery 861 which might have more WAF
But my real question was - did you test different DACs?
I have recently put together the Faital 3WC-10 speakers. I have wanted to build some of TG:s speakers badly for years and now was the right time.
I chose the 3WC-10 because I like their old school looks and because they are reasonably sensitive with regards to their size. I would have gone for the 12" or even the 15" woofer version if the choice would be up to me only but the 10" do not seem to give away much more than some sensitivity compared to its bigger brothers (this is my interpretation of TG:s comments. I could be mistaken of course).
Having listened to the speakers now for two weeks I can say I really like them. As someone commented earlier, they are transparent and on the polite side. Troels gives the choice of two resistors in the tweeter XO to tune the tweeter. I chose the bigger value which means it will tame the tweeter more. At some point I will switch to the lower value resistors because at times I feel there could be more shimmer with high frequency sounds like cymbals. I am sensitive to bright sounding speakers though and because of that my choice was to start with the lower tweeter output.
For me their best attributes are a superbly transparent midrange and their ability to disappear. They vanish completely in my room and paints a solid soundstage with good width and depth. The soundstage height might be smaller than that from narrow floor standers but the difference to my Sonus Faber Venere 2.5 is negligible. Overall, the 3WC-10 is better by a comfortable margin in every respect compared to the SF V2.5.
I chose the 3WC-10 because I like their old school looks and because they are reasonably sensitive with regards to their size. I would have gone for the 12" or even the 15" woofer version if the choice would be up to me only but the 10" do not seem to give away much more than some sensitivity compared to its bigger brothers (this is my interpretation of TG:s comments. I could be mistaken of course).
Having listened to the speakers now for two weeks I can say I really like them. As someone commented earlier, they are transparent and on the polite side. Troels gives the choice of two resistors in the tweeter XO to tune the tweeter. I chose the bigger value which means it will tame the tweeter more. At some point I will switch to the lower value resistors because at times I feel there could be more shimmer with high frequency sounds like cymbals. I am sensitive to bright sounding speakers though and because of that my choice was to start with the lower tweeter output.
For me their best attributes are a superbly transparent midrange and their ability to disappear. They vanish completely in my room and paints a solid soundstage with good width and depth. The soundstage height might be smaller than that from narrow floor standers but the difference to my Sonus Faber Venere 2.5 is negligible. Overall, the 3WC-10 is better by a comfortable margin in every respect compared to the SF V2.5.
A short update. I’m in the end state of building the Faital 3WC 10”. Sanded the cabinets and putting in some bitumen. Can’t wait for them to play.
You are just ahead of me! Well, I do have all the parts but the wood. In the very likely event that you finish your speakers before I do, do let me know if you wish to hear other amplifiers (FW related 😉) Thanks to the convectorput, I guessed you are from the same country.
LOL indeed. NL. Glueing the front panels this weekend. I’ll share some pictures of the end result.
Checking in as im finishing my 3wc10 aswell. All parts were completed yesterday - at which point I discovered that speaker A had bass 1cm higher placement than speaker B. Measure twice ...
I opted to follow troels with rabbet joint for baffle - which i almost regret. I intend to glue all parts in one go. Not looking forward to it as it will be stressfull.
Any ideas on how to make speaker stands? Thinking of jbl100 stands, but damn the speakers will be heavy
I opted to follow troels with rabbet joint for baffle - which i almost regret. I intend to glue all parts in one go. Not looking forward to it as it will be stressfull.
Any ideas on how to make speaker stands? Thinking of jbl100 stands, but damn the speakers will be heavy
How about the TNT stubby? https://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/stubby_e.html
I will probably go this design path. I had considered more complex topologies with multiple posts, like the JBL JS-360. Also, there is a three post design for the Geithain RL 901 from relatively slim stainless steel tubing, that looks rather elegant.
If think rectangular designs are more complicated. With the ATC SCM 100 for example, which is rather tall and the stand short, it is not a matter that it is elongating the speaker's vertical lines. But the simple stools that Troels build, I had found to be too chunky for my taste.
After having looked at all these options, a singular middle pillar seems to be a good DIY solution.
I will probably go this design path. I had considered more complex topologies with multiple posts, like the JBL JS-360. Also, there is a three post design for the Geithain RL 901 from relatively slim stainless steel tubing, that looks rather elegant.
If think rectangular designs are more complicated. With the ATC SCM 100 for example, which is rather tall and the stand short, it is not a matter that it is elongating the speaker's vertical lines. But the simple stools that Troels build, I had found to be too chunky for my taste.
After having looked at all these options, a singular middle pillar seems to be a good DIY solution.
They are heavy. Mine are now warming up. Bass getting looser all the time. These speakers have something magical musically speaking that I was looking for. Seems I might be there. And yes. They are very heavy. I have 6 bitumen pads in each of them. That doesn’t help either.
