Looking for some advice and help
I have an older console stereo that currently isn’t being used. It is in my family room and sits below my tv. With the layout of the room I don’t have much space for a sub.
I was thinking of putting a sub amp and 2 12” subs into the cabinet and running it as my sub
I need some help selecting drivers
The two speaker boxes are 16.5 inches deep 19.5 inches high and 12 inches wide (internal). The backs are open and I can keep them open or enclose.
Also I think I would remove the other midrange drivers and block the holes
any suggestions or input would be appreciated
I have an older console stereo that currently isn’t being used. It is in my family room and sits below my tv. With the layout of the room I don’t have much space for a sub.
I was thinking of putting a sub amp and 2 12” subs into the cabinet and running it as my sub
I need some help selecting drivers
The two speaker boxes are 16.5 inches deep 19.5 inches high and 12 inches wide (internal). The backs are open and I can keep them open or enclose.
Also I think I would remove the other midrange drivers and block the holes
any suggestions or input would be appreciated
Historically, mobile audio woofers have the lowest Fs with small sealed box specs, so assuming a < ~120 Hz XO, then any of the better brands/models [JBL, et al]; not familiar enough with any high end ones if needing a higher XO point.
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You won't be able to install a 12" sub in a box with internal dimensions of 12".
Maybe a 10" would be a better choice.
Maybe a 10" would be a better choice.
On paper [published specs simmed in HR], looks like a near enough perfect 'fit' acoustically [~0.703 Qts'] assuming a ~40 Hz tuning/~25 W Xmax limited power handling down low is acceptable.
Let's see a rear view of this console, each side's speaker enclosures, and adjacent equipment/panels.
After seeing the console pics (A Curtis Mathis eh?) in order to do what 280z wants, he'll have to apply some woodworking skills.
Namely, reinforcing the panels and dividers.
They look like typical 1/4" with framing.
And that will naturally cause major cabinet vibrations should a hefty subwoofer(s) be installed in those sections.
My advice is to get some 3/4" pine, and cut to fit snug in the framework of each divider section.
Then use "Titebond II" glue to bond the pine to the existing 1/4" panel, as well as to it's framing.
Roll it on with a paint roller and make sure it's snug against the panel.
A couple of wood screws driven through from the 1/4" side ought to hold it in place.
In other words, make those walls a full inch thick.
Top-bottom, and sides.
You want a rock-solid enclosure in the end, no vibrations, only the woofer cone should vibrate.
Otherwise, you get boomy sloppy bass and rattles.
I lined my 1963 RCA Victor console the same way, except I completely gutted all the internal panels and started from scratch to do a custom design.
This is with the RCA woofers, which eventually were replaced with hefty 12" subs.
Namely, reinforcing the panels and dividers.
They look like typical 1/4" with framing.
And that will naturally cause major cabinet vibrations should a hefty subwoofer(s) be installed in those sections.
My advice is to get some 3/4" pine, and cut to fit snug in the framework of each divider section.
Then use "Titebond II" glue to bond the pine to the existing 1/4" panel, as well as to it's framing.
Roll it on with a paint roller and make sure it's snug against the panel.
A couple of wood screws driven through from the 1/4" side ought to hold it in place.
In other words, make those walls a full inch thick.
Top-bottom, and sides.
You want a rock-solid enclosure in the end, no vibrations, only the woofer cone should vibrate.
Otherwise, you get boomy sloppy bass and rattles.
I lined my 1963 RCA Victor console the same way, except I completely gutted all the internal panels and started from scratch to do a custom design.
This is with the RCA woofers, which eventually were replaced with hefty 12" subs.
Wow. Thank you so much for the suggestions and the picture of your work. This is great. It may take me till summer to pull the project off but these notes will be a great help. It’ll be nice to have some low frequency help with music and for movies 🙂
I designed my console to be ported, even though the new woofers are high-compliance types.
And stuffed polyester (pillow stuffing) loosly in each chamber.
The result is quite pleasent.... deep down clean lows, no cabinet-talk with the thick inside walls.
It was well worth the work involved, even though the whole console is twice as heavy now.
My goal was that only the speakers were to make music, not the cabinet itself.
Notice - each chamber is slightly different from the other one - this is an old Magnavox trick - resulting in a smoother bass due to each woofer having a different "area" to play in, and thus each woofer's fundamental "peak" or resonance is not in tune/identical with the other one, eliminating that "one note" bass peak.
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