I'm resurrecting my old TD160 super. Now there are plenty of suggestions online how to improve a standard TD160, but many of these enhancements were already done by Thorens on the TD160 Super, including:
-Bituminous felt damping on the motor board and suspended subchassis
-heavy duty bottom plate made from thick MDF
-larger main bearing
Now I notice this TT still suffers from noticeable microphonics when in operation - any minor disturbance of the motor board are easily audible.
I'm looking forward to suggestions please to improve this deck without going overboard with major modifications. Some ideas under consideration:
-A new solid hardwood plinth noting the existing is MDF. I'm considering this more for aesthetics as the existing MDF plinth is pretty rough - however I don't want to do this at detriment to the sonics. Does the plinth material impact the overall tonal qualities of this deck? Is hardwood appropriate? There are plenty of aftermarket plinths on the market, suggesting this may not have a bad impact. I will make my own if I go down this path.
-damping the arm board. My existing armboard supporting the SME3009 tonearm is plain aluminium sheet, with no damping at all, and no damping in the steel spacer/screw attachments to the subchassis. I've applied Response damping material (similar to dynamat) to the underside, and am considering using o-rings on the spacer to subchassis mounting points for some additional isolation. Thoughts on this approach?
-is damping of the inside of the sub-platter recommended? I can use my Response material for this.
-I have the factory black rubber platter mat. Suggestions please for the best isolation here - I suspect this may be one area of huge possible improvement.
-is it worth replacing the factory bituminous felt damping on the motorboard and subchassis with something else?
-any other suggestions whilst I'm in there?
-Bituminous felt damping on the motor board and suspended subchassis
-heavy duty bottom plate made from thick MDF
-larger main bearing
Now I notice this TT still suffers from noticeable microphonics when in operation - any minor disturbance of the motor board are easily audible.
I'm looking forward to suggestions please to improve this deck without going overboard with major modifications. Some ideas under consideration:
-A new solid hardwood plinth noting the existing is MDF. I'm considering this more for aesthetics as the existing MDF plinth is pretty rough - however I don't want to do this at detriment to the sonics. Does the plinth material impact the overall tonal qualities of this deck? Is hardwood appropriate? There are plenty of aftermarket plinths on the market, suggesting this may not have a bad impact. I will make my own if I go down this path.
-damping the arm board. My existing armboard supporting the SME3009 tonearm is plain aluminium sheet, with no damping at all, and no damping in the steel spacer/screw attachments to the subchassis. I've applied Response damping material (similar to dynamat) to the underside, and am considering using o-rings on the spacer to subchassis mounting points for some additional isolation. Thoughts on this approach?
-is damping of the inside of the sub-platter recommended? I can use my Response material for this.
-I have the factory black rubber platter mat. Suggestions please for the best isolation here - I suspect this may be one area of huge possible improvement.
-is it worth replacing the factory bituminous felt damping on the motorboard and subchassis with something else?
-any other suggestions whilst I'm in there?
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Hello, I worked on my TD-160 Super recently. I did not upgrade the plinth, just put some isolation feet underside.
I played a lot with the platter and subplatter. I tested the effect of damping by hitting the edge of the platter with my fingernails. I found that damping the subplatter has very minimal effect. So I concentrated on the platter itself. I used thick aluminium-backed bitumenous automotive damping sheet. I cut flat pieces covering the area between the rim of the sublatter and the rim of the platter. Also I covered the inner side of the rim of the platter. One must be careful here, because the distance between the motor pulley and the underside of the platter is just 2 or 3 millimeters. So the damping can't be thick here. Fortunately the bitumenous sheet can be formed easily, even with fingers or fingernails (I did it during this hot summer).
I did not add any additional damping to the motor board and the platter subchassis.
I also adjusted the spring suspension, because the weight of the bitumen made the platter sink too low. Removed the foam inserts, and adjusted about 6 mm between the chassis and the platter rim all around. I checked the distance by inserting a 6mm drill bit under the platter at several points around, and adjusted the springs for tight fit. This is an interactive process with the three spring adjusting screws.
Also I installed a 3-pole IEC main socket and connected all metal parts (chassis, motor board and turntable subchassis) to mains earth. I made sure the arm tube GND is NOT connected to the mains earth.
As for the platter mat, I use plain black felt.
I played a lot with the platter and subplatter. I tested the effect of damping by hitting the edge of the platter with my fingernails. I found that damping the subplatter has very minimal effect. So I concentrated on the platter itself. I used thick aluminium-backed bitumenous automotive damping sheet. I cut flat pieces covering the area between the rim of the sublatter and the rim of the platter. Also I covered the inner side of the rim of the platter. One must be careful here, because the distance between the motor pulley and the underside of the platter is just 2 or 3 millimeters. So the damping can't be thick here. Fortunately the bitumenous sheet can be formed easily, even with fingers or fingernails (I did it during this hot summer).
I did not add any additional damping to the motor board and the platter subchassis.
I also adjusted the spring suspension, because the weight of the bitumen made the platter sink too low. Removed the foam inserts, and adjusted about 6 mm between the chassis and the platter rim all around. I checked the distance by inserting a 6mm drill bit under the platter at several points around, and adjusted the springs for tight fit. This is an interactive process with the three spring adjusting screws.
Also I installed a 3-pole IEC main socket and connected all metal parts (chassis, motor board and turntable subchassis) to mains earth. I made sure the arm tube GND is NOT connected to the mains earth.
As for the platter mat, I use plain black felt.
Don't bother with sticking crap in the sub-platter; rather get a decent platter mat like Herbie's Audio Labs Way Excellent II Way Excellent II Turntable Mat
– Herbie's Audio Lab
For environmental isolation get a slate or similar sub plinth on Sorbothane hemispheres, or the budget version, squash balls cut in half, and place your deck on top of that.
These two 'improvements' are an order of magnitude above what will be gained by playing with arm-board damping and other stuff on the deck itself, whilst at the same time will make those lessor upgrades far more noticeable and worthwhile.
– Herbie's Audio Lab
For environmental isolation get a slate or similar sub plinth on Sorbothane hemispheres, or the budget version, squash balls cut in half, and place your deck on top of that.
These two 'improvements' are an order of magnitude above what will be gained by playing with arm-board damping and other stuff on the deck itself, whilst at the same time will make those lessor upgrades far more noticeable and worthwhile.