I am planning to do couple of about 150 liter subs to my living room. This driver looks interesting. Any experience?
No, but published specs make it my kind of driver on paper 😉 and 150 L calculates a 0.8 Qtc, ~52.77 Hz Fc, > 105 dB/~22 Hz/m/2pi and > 115 dB/~30 Hz/m if interested in HT reference SPL, peaking at ~126 dB/~76 Hz/450 W, so plenty of dynamic headroom if wanting to boost mid bass LFE in a Hornresp sim.
It will need eq to go low enough for subs if used sealed. Without eq you got an F6 of 42Hz in 150L sealed. But with eq 102dB at 20Hz should be possible wihtout going over xmax, and more probally also (but not as clean).
They would be in same enclosure with 15" coaxials. Active speaker with Minidsp PWR-ICE module for coax and same module or separate DSP and amp for sub.
Really?!
@ published Xmax is more than plenty for most folk's apps IME and based on folks on all the forums I've participated in.
Just because it'll hit that SPL, it doesn't mean the frequency response will be flat.
EQ would be needed to make it flat-to-20Hz anechoically.
Very different EQ would be needed indoors. IMO, the best approach is to design something with plenty of headroom, and then EQ the resulting subwoofer + room combination.
Chris
EQ would be needed to make it flat-to-20Hz anechoically.
Very different EQ would be needed indoors. IMO, the best approach is to design something with plenty of headroom, and then EQ the resulting subwoofer + room combination.
Chris
Indeed, that was what i was saying. A lot of eq is needed, but the driver is fit for that eq in a sealed box at that volume. So use the sealed box + dsp to get the response needed.
No way did I say/imply it would be flat, but to be flat from 20-22 Hz would be its rather meager pass band output without excedding Xmax, though IME they don't want the bass range to overpower the room.
You might be surprised at how little low end boosting is needed in a domestic sized space. It's nothing like what would be needed to be flat outdoors. Now if you want to run a house curve with rising low end that's something else entirely.
Please define 'domestic sized space' since IME it typically runs a sealed alignment to audible distortion when there's any useful < ~28 Hz signal.
Well, for my main speakers (2x Seas H1252-08 per side - 8" midbass units, closed boxes), the simulated anechoic -3dB point is about 55Hz. Close-mic'd measurements agree.
In-room, the bass goes up to +15dB (over nominal level) at 40Hz, and back down to 0dB at about 10Hz. For satisfying bass, then, all the EQing is subtractive: the 40Hz mountain is cut down, and the resulting response is flat to 10Hz. After experiencing bass like that, most other systems sound broken in comparison.
I tried the same speakers in a different (much larger) room, and about 10dB of LF boost was required to get down to 30Hz, and maximum output was reduced accordingly. Thanks to a very large amplifier, cone excursion was quite dramatic at times, so distortion was guaranteed.
My room is obviously very helpful in terms of giving woofers an easy life, but it does illustrate the point that predicting subwoofer requirements is heavily dependent on the room itself.
Chris
In-room, the bass goes up to +15dB (over nominal level) at 40Hz, and back down to 0dB at about 10Hz. For satisfying bass, then, all the EQing is subtractive: the 40Hz mountain is cut down, and the resulting response is flat to 10Hz. After experiencing bass like that, most other systems sound broken in comparison.
I tried the same speakers in a different (much larger) room, and about 10dB of LF boost was required to get down to 30Hz, and maximum output was reduced accordingly. Thanks to a very large amplifier, cone excursion was quite dramatic at times, so distortion was guaranteed.
My room is obviously very helpful in terms of giving woofers an easy life, but it does illustrate the point that predicting subwoofer requirements is heavily dependent on the room itself.
Chris
Absolutely and well above the average in my middle class locale, though in retrospect, I imagine the majority of folks here either live in areas with [much] worse Winters or super hot Summers, so have better built/insulated [attached] homes.
That is true, i don't know the weather now in Atlanta, but here in the Hainaut countryside of Belgium it's 3° Celcius (37° Farenheit) and raining with a cold strong westernwind. And this is actually quiet warm weather for the time of the year, mostly it's freezing a little here this time of the year...
So our houses are very isolated (in general). The gouverment now request almost zero emission passive houses for new builds so they become so isloated that they require almost no heating anymore.
Was 71 deg F at 12:00 pm/noon at my house, but declining due to rain/cold front behind it: https://weather.com/weather/today/l/c776feb20bea8d408fcdb0b7db38e6d1d20e04385c8a13c11eb66eba88bb699d
Wow! Don't even want to think how much it would be to update my basically all wood, masonite products constructed house thats 'floated'/'suspended' on a concrete block foundation, so my knee-jerk response would be to plow it under, sell for scrap and start fresh with modern materials, etc., on a heated concrete pad since it's built on top of a huge rock plateau formation of Stone Mountain.
Wow! Don't even want to think how much it would be to update my basically all wood, masonite products constructed house thats 'floated'/'suspended' on a concrete block foundation, so my knee-jerk response would be to plow it under, sell for scrap and start fresh with modern materials, etc., on a heated concrete pad since it's built on top of a huge rock plateau formation of Stone Mountain.
You can do that, wood frame houses on concrete foundations are also build here and are easy to fit those isolation regulations. You just need to add a lot of isolation between the wood walls (we always build double outer walls here, also with stone buildings.). This is a sktech on how that is done...
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Thanks! Right, this is the way it's done here also with the air gap set based on some variables [historically material cost Vs room net volume, local loudness code], ditto for containing a dedicated HIFI/HT's full range listening 'experience'.
The typical construction 2000-7000cu ft rooms most people have in their homes. Sure some have extremely lossy audio spaces greater than >10,000 cu ft, but these are in the minority.
Rooms of average size and construction in a home, usually provide a generous boost to the very low frequencies. In most cases it will reduce the amount of low end boosting required for a sealed alignment from that indicated in modeling or measurements in half-space. This is my point. Simply that the low end EQ boost requirements are often not nearly as drastic as implied by modeling.
Just because something is "flat" doesn't mean it has the headroom required to do the job by any means. I never implied that.
Running out of headroom is an issue of listening habits, environment and enough gear for the gig. Attempting to be flat to 20Hz with a pair of 8's in an open plan 6000cu ft basement HT is not going to work well at all.
Not all sealed alignments are created equal.