Hi to all,
One of the woofers of my B&W DM601 S3 speakers started to work intermittently and only when applying a slight pressure on the membrane.
After a close inspection the junction soldering between the voice coil and the tinsel wire is faulty.
To repair the soldering i need to remove something that looks like a resin which keeps the tinsel/voice coil glued to the spider.
Do you have any idea how to remove this resin ? White spirit !?
Also , are there any special steps to follow when repairing such a fragile connection? temperature soldering range !?
Attached you can find a photo with the faulty connection.
Thank you!
One of the woofers of my B&W DM601 S3 speakers started to work intermittently and only when applying a slight pressure on the membrane.
After a close inspection the junction soldering between the voice coil and the tinsel wire is faulty.
To repair the soldering i need to remove something that looks like a resin which keeps the tinsel/voice coil glued to the spider.
Do you have any idea how to remove this resin ? White spirit !?
Also , are there any special steps to follow when repairing such a fragile connection? temperature soldering range !?
Attached you can find a photo with the faulty connection.
Thank you!
Attachments
First, problem might be voice coil wire that broke after the solder joint, not solder joint itself.
Dont use any solvents to remove resin beacuse they might affect spider varnish and glue between spider and former. Try to heat tinsel wire close to resin with solder iron and pull gently at same time.
Dont use any solvents to remove resin beacuse they might affect spider varnish and glue between spider and former. Try to heat tinsel wire close to resin with solder iron and pull gently at same time.
Those is also in the wrong forum and should be in multiway. I agree though that this might not be the solder joint that's failed and it's the wire after the joint that has failed due to metal fatigue.
In the beginning i thought also the same.
Continuity fails between the "-" and "+" connectors of the woofer.
The bad solder joint is on the side of the "+"connector between the tinsel and the top of the coil wire.
Continuity is ok between the "-" and the top of the coil wire on the "+" side.
It fails between the "+" connector and the top coil wire "+" , thus it is the solder joint.
Continuity fails between the "-" and "+" connectors of the woofer.
The bad solder joint is on the side of the "+"connector between the tinsel and the top of the coil wire.
Continuity is ok between the "-" and the top of the coil wire on the "+" side.
It fails between the "+" connector and the top coil wire "+" , thus it is the solder joint.
Know if the voice coil is aluminium and the tinsel wire is copper?
I had a Dynaudio 17W75 develop a bad solder joint at the voice coil.
I touched up the joint with 60/40 solder and the driver worked. Not sure if that was the correct option but it did work for at least a few years. This was about 20 years ago or so.
There may be better repair options as far as re soldering if it is a copper/aluminium joint.
I had a Dynaudio 17W75 develop a bad solder joint at the voice coil.
I touched up the joint with 60/40 solder and the driver worked. Not sure if that was the correct option but it did work for at least a few years. This was about 20 years ago or so.
There may be better repair options as far as re soldering if it is a copper/aluminium joint.
If you dont find anything better, UHU Extra gel or Pattex Total gel. Both are transparent synthetic resins, semi-flexible when dry, good sealants and insulators and can whitstand fairly high temperature 70-80 degC.
I have used UHU with success for spiders on my Lowthers.
I have used UHU with success for spiders on my Lowthers.