I'm trying to complete installing the innards for a DIY Remote Volume+Input Control I bought on eBay by putting them in an enclosure which has a front panel that is cut out to fit the LCD display and a back panel that has cut outs for the four RCA-jacks.
These are the specs I've been given that will fit but I'll settle for the enclosure and I can do the rest. Prefer a non-metal enclosure.
External dimensions: 273x190x64mm
Internal dimensions: 262x175x55mm
Accessories: Four machine feet, all aluminum knobs, power input sockets, screws
Can anyone recommend a supplier/vender/source?
Attaching three pix: two of the enclosure kit, one of the innards.
These are the specs I've been given that will fit but I'll settle for the enclosure and I can do the rest. Prefer a non-metal enclosure.
External dimensions: 273x190x64mm
Internal dimensions: 262x175x55mm
Accessories: Four machine feet, all aluminum knobs, power input sockets, screws
Can anyone recommend a supplier/vender/source?
Attaching three pix: two of the enclosure kit, one of the innards.
Attachments
Hammond makes many styles, and they are available from most vendors.
You really should use a metal enclosure to reduce noise pickup.
The pictured enclosure is from China, for those look on alibaba and ebay.
Few will have the rectangular cutout on the front panel though.
You really should use a metal enclosure to reduce noise pickup.
The pictured enclosure is from China, for those look on alibaba and ebay.
Few will have the rectangular cutout on the front panel though.
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the LCD display window cutout on this box is 120*27mm; my kit's LCD display window cutout is around 64*14mm. I need a much smaller box overall.
Most of the Chinese enclosures are much deeper than their width.
You could make a sub panel for the display.
<What´s wrong with the case you show in your first picture?>
The seller of the electronics said he didn't want to send it because of its weight he would have to charge $40. He sent me the pix and suggested I might find something similar here in the USA.
The seller of the electronics said he didn't want to send it because of its weight he would have to charge $40. He sent me the pix and suggested I might find something similar here in the USA.
I noticed that it was unusually deep. I thought it was because of the large power supply. I see no need to put that inside a cabinet that is trying to be free of anything would disturb the signal being amplified. I have a 12v 3A wall wart that I can run into the case.
I'm not set up to do more than drill holes and solder wires.
I'm not set up to do more than drill holes and solder wires.
How about a recycled case? I've got a small class-D amp housed in a cast metal case that originally contained a long-distance radio modem. The end covers were missing when I got it, but I cut front and rear panels from aluminum and now it looks presentable. I'm mounting a phono preamp in a case that was originally an interface box on a JLG manlift. You might find things like that at a scrap yard, or in the dumpster of a rental company. Other sources could be obsolete computer and network devices, audio gear. Cases for external computer drives (CDROM etc) can be ideal, if you can find one that's made of metal.
If a front or rear panel has too many weird holes, cover it with a nice new piece of aluminum (or wood or ?). Lay out the cuts with a combination square, scribe the lines, saw oversize with a hacksaw, finish to the line with a file (or with sandpaper laid on a flat surface). The LCD opening can be roughly cut out by drilling overlapping holes, or preferably with a sabre saw (not infrequently available at thrift stores for $7), then again filing to the line. If you don't have a vise available, a Quick-Grip clamp is just as good for holding panels on some horizontal surface for sawing and filing. Don't overlook including a protective plastic window for the LCD; the surface of the screen is a soft plastic that will scratch or mark very easily.
If a front or rear panel has too many weird holes, cover it with a nice new piece of aluminum (or wood or ?). Lay out the cuts with a combination square, scribe the lines, saw oversize with a hacksaw, finish to the line with a file (or with sandpaper laid on a flat surface). The LCD opening can be roughly cut out by drilling overlapping holes, or preferably with a sabre saw (not infrequently available at thrift stores for $7), then again filing to the line. If you don't have a vise available, a Quick-Grip clamp is just as good for holding panels on some horizontal surface for sawing and filing. Don't overlook including a protective plastic window for the LCD; the surface of the screen is a soft plastic that will scratch or mark very easily.
All good ideas. apologies for not replying last month.
I'm also toying with not using a case at all other than a flat rectangular surface like a .025" thick piece of Masonite or Lucite to anchor down the components. Or two identical pieces and adding 4-1.5" standoffs on the corners.
Anybody done anything like this?
I'm also toying with not using a case at all other than a flat rectangular surface like a .025" thick piece of Masonite or Lucite to anchor down the components. Or two identical pieces and adding 4-1.5" standoffs on the corners.
Anybody done anything like this?