Hello DIYA community,
I have been a lurker on the platform for awhile, and just recently got the means and energy to start maybe trying a project. I had a few questions pertaining to mostly this category, but it might stray outside (sorry). If there's a different place to post this please let me know. My questions mostly pertained to three major points
1) Where to source/ buy / make a beginner kit of parts? I would just like to have some basic parts to look at and see how different parts and designs affect the signal differently. I am in the process of maybe acquiring an oscilloscope, I wanted one for other electronics projects anyway.
2) What to look for in a component and where to buy them? I'm familiar with digikey and the like, but I didn't know if audio stuff should come from a different spot.
3) What designs/projects should I start with?
Any help is appreciated
I have been a lurker on the platform for awhile, and just recently got the means and energy to start maybe trying a project. I had a few questions pertaining to mostly this category, but it might stray outside (sorry). If there's a different place to post this please let me know. My questions mostly pertained to three major points
1) Where to source/ buy / make a beginner kit of parts? I would just like to have some basic parts to look at and see how different parts and designs affect the signal differently. I am in the process of maybe acquiring an oscilloscope, I wanted one for other electronics projects anyway.
2) What to look for in a component and where to buy them? I'm familiar with digikey and the like, but I didn't know if audio stuff should come from a different spot.
3) What designs/projects should I start with?
Any help is appreciated
2. I buy specialty stuff from specialty suppliers when I cannot buy it from general suppliers. SO I shop at Mouser first (or Digikey, whatever large parts house you like) for most things, but for things like 500v filter caps with axial leads, I look to "amplifier parts" sellers. In my world power and output transformers are pretty specific, so I look to specialty suppliers for those too.
1. I started collecting parts in the mid-1950s. I have tons of parts. And yet I still had to order things all the time. I did buy a "resistor kit" once, but 45 years later I probably still have a third of them. I do tend to use certain values a lot more than others. But you know what you work on, I don't. If you wire up 12AX7s you will need certain parts more than others, but if your stuff is based upon TL072s you will likely use mostly different stuff. My opinion is it is tough to invent a parts kit up front. it grows naturally.
3. How can anyone answer that but yourself?
1. I started collecting parts in the mid-1950s. I have tons of parts. And yet I still had to order things all the time. I did buy a "resistor kit" once, but 45 years later I probably still have a third of them. I do tend to use certain values a lot more than others. But you know what you work on, I don't. If you wire up 12AX7s you will need certain parts more than others, but if your stuff is based upon TL072s you will likely use mostly different stuff. My opinion is it is tough to invent a parts kit up front. it grows naturally.
3. How can anyone answer that but yourself?
Buy parts as you need them , from a quality supplier (avoid aliexpress,amazon and ebay for components)
When you need three diodes, buy ten, when you need six capacitors buy ten when you need 27 resistors, buy 50 etc etc
Stash them away in a sorted form, assorter boxes etc
It might be slow progress when you first start but you'll soon get quicker cos the part you want will be at hand.
When you need three diodes, buy ten, when you need six capacitors buy ten when you need 27 resistors, buy 50 etc etc
Stash them away in a sorted form, assorter boxes etc
It might be slow progress when you first start but you'll soon get quicker cos the part you want will be at hand.
For where to start in analog audio I'd suggest something low power (less likely to have expensive mistakes), such as line-level (tone controls, microphone preamp, stuff like that).
There are lots of simple ideas at ESP, ESP Projects Pages - DIY Audio and Electronics
Its a bit of a learning curve but LTSpice is used a lot here for testing out designs before committing to a build, and you never have to wait for parts in the post 🙂
There are lots of simple ideas at ESP, ESP Projects Pages - DIY Audio and Electronics
Its a bit of a learning curve but LTSpice is used a lot here for testing out designs before committing to a build, and you never have to wait for parts in the post 🙂
For your first project, I recommend buying an all inclusive kit which includes a PCB, all electronic components, pre-drilled, pre-lettered chassis/enclosure, all mechanical fasteners (bolts, nuts, washers, set screws), and detailed assembly instructions. Let somebody else do all of the work of sourcing those things during a time of unprecedented shortages, while you focus your limited amounts of hobby-time upon building and enjoying audio gear.
The diyAudio Store sells several all inclusive kits. So does the company called Akitika (whose owner, Dan Joffe, is a member of diyAudio). Lots of places sell a very famous kit called "Objective 2 Headphone Amplifier". And you can use Google Advanced Search to help you find full kits of the CMOY amplifier.
Loads of choices.
The diyAudio Store sells several all inclusive kits. So does the company called Akitika (whose owner, Dan Joffe, is a member of diyAudio). Lots of places sell a very famous kit called "Objective 2 Headphone Amplifier". And you can use Google Advanced Search to help you find full kits of the CMOY amplifier.
Loads of choices.
Blown commercial amps are a great source of chassis, power transformers, in/out connectors, pots(worn)+knobs lamps etc. Look at ebay "amplifier for parts or repair". Gets you out of machine work for your first project. Don't buy class D or T or "plate" amps, which are not repairable by the inexperienced. Peavey Crown QSC will usually get you a nice chassis that a schematic can be found for. 80's 90's products will be leaded components and class AB. I've repaired & used Peavey PV-4c($20), CS800s ($100), PV-1.3k($55), MMA-875t($25), MMA-8150($70 working), for <$100 in most cases. PV8 mixers, too. Dynaco was cool, but extremely pricey now even blown up. Watch the freight on ebay; varies a lot & closer is better. 70 lb over leaves out cheap old USPS. Some vendors let fed-ex pack for them, these units have rediculous freight.
I'm nearer to distributor newark (SC) than mouser(TX), saves me a day on surface shipping. Mouser stiffs me on freight every time, $14 minimum then they ship it by air which is environmentally stupid. Digikey & Newark are $8-9 freight. If I was on the west coast I'd use Arrow or Jameco more. Digikey is okay, but sells out of shelf life electrolytic capacitors for full price. Newark discounts them. If past shelf life, you have to reform them with small voltage before hammering them with full rated voltage.
To save money on resistors, use upper lower limit selector, around the desired standard values. I usually can buy 1/2 w 1% metal film for $1-2 a hundred a little off the EIA standard value from newark. The 20% parts are all going to be the same value now, anyway, no random processes anymore. 10% tolerance resistors will be all -9% anyway. Mouser seems to only sell Xicor resistors for $.18 each, which are made in *****. Vishay, international, multicomp mostly come from countries where they don't lie on the QA paperwork as much.
Film caps, remember polyprophylene sounds better than mylar according to John Curl. Sound deteriorated in one project I did replacing paper caps (1962) with mylar. I don't stock ahead on those.
ELectrolytic capacitors, I like service life >3000 hours because the caps I bought off the shelf @ TV parts stores lasted only 8 years. Reliable brands are Panasonic, nichicon, rubicon, Kemet, second tier (easier service end of life test) Chemicon CDE. Radials can usually be adapted instead of axial or screw terminal caps, they are a lot cheaper, and come in longer service lives.
Zip lock baggies, a sharpie to mark them, and akro bins are great for storing categories in the closet or attic. I sorted resistors by decade until recently. Mark the labels with value & wattage with sharpie at receipt. The printed labels fade in a couple of years.
Useful transistor selector: Driver Transistors
however most of those 2sc/2sa parts can't be bought in USA. Fairchild clones some with a ksc prefix.
Surplus houses electronicsurplus.com (NY) surplussales.com (NB) are useful for military surplus parts & overruns. I bought some GE D44r3 TO-220 transistors 15 years ago from ES, used them for an AX6 with nice sound because of the high Ft, and he still had some last week for $2.90 for 10. Great npn drivers & VAS imho. Apexjr in LA is useful for amp transformers kits & the like, see his listing under commercial vendors below. Wire & cable is sometimes a bargain from these houses, sometimes not. Scored a lot of teflon wire 15 years ago.
Happy shopping & building.
I'm nearer to distributor newark (SC) than mouser(TX), saves me a day on surface shipping. Mouser stiffs me on freight every time, $14 minimum then they ship it by air which is environmentally stupid. Digikey & Newark are $8-9 freight. If I was on the west coast I'd use Arrow or Jameco more. Digikey is okay, but sells out of shelf life electrolytic capacitors for full price. Newark discounts them. If past shelf life, you have to reform them with small voltage before hammering them with full rated voltage.
To save money on resistors, use upper lower limit selector, around the desired standard values. I usually can buy 1/2 w 1% metal film for $1-2 a hundred a little off the EIA standard value from newark. The 20% parts are all going to be the same value now, anyway, no random processes anymore. 10% tolerance resistors will be all -9% anyway. Mouser seems to only sell Xicor resistors for $.18 each, which are made in *****. Vishay, international, multicomp mostly come from countries where they don't lie on the QA paperwork as much.
Film caps, remember polyprophylene sounds better than mylar according to John Curl. Sound deteriorated in one project I did replacing paper caps (1962) with mylar. I don't stock ahead on those.
ELectrolytic capacitors, I like service life >3000 hours because the caps I bought off the shelf @ TV parts stores lasted only 8 years. Reliable brands are Panasonic, nichicon, rubicon, Kemet, second tier (easier service end of life test) Chemicon CDE. Radials can usually be adapted instead of axial or screw terminal caps, they are a lot cheaper, and come in longer service lives.
Zip lock baggies, a sharpie to mark them, and akro bins are great for storing categories in the closet or attic. I sorted resistors by decade until recently. Mark the labels with value & wattage with sharpie at receipt. The printed labels fade in a couple of years.
Useful transistor selector: Driver Transistors
however most of those 2sc/2sa parts can't be bought in USA. Fairchild clones some with a ksc prefix.
Surplus houses electronicsurplus.com (NY) surplussales.com (NB) are useful for military surplus parts & overruns. I bought some GE D44r3 TO-220 transistors 15 years ago from ES, used them for an AX6 with nice sound because of the high Ft, and he still had some last week for $2.90 for 10. Great npn drivers & VAS imho. Apexjr in LA is useful for amp transformers kits & the like, see his listing under commercial vendors below. Wire & cable is sometimes a bargain from these houses, sometimes not. Scored a lot of teflon wire 15 years ago.
Happy shopping & building.
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Digikey will ship ANY size of order for free within the USA, if you mail it in with a check for the parts
plus your state sales tax.
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