Hi all.
I have Teac VRDS-10 that I what to use my old Lclock XO and a separate power supply called "XO2 power supply" in. That works well for the Lclock XO.
Wile I know how to do it on say a Teac T-1, as I have that servo board, I am a little unsure on the servo board of the VRDS-10. It's kind of similar in places, and yet there are many differences.
When installing the clock in T-1 or similar, I unsolder the crystal X51, the C51 next to it and C55, which is an orange trimmer close to it.
On the VRDS-10, there is the same X51 crystal, the same c51, but no c55.
But on the other side of the crystal is another c52 capacitor. Both the C51 and C52 are very small ones.
So, on the VRDS-10, and using the external power supply, I suppose I should unsolder the crystal X51, the C51, but also the C52?
I will then only solder in the signal+ in to the crystal's one end and the ground in to the one end of the C51 as per Teac T-1.
Anything else to do? Such as unsoldering C52? Other components?
I am not educated in electronics, but can follow a guide 😉
Any comments and help on this is most appreciated, so I can get it up and running 😉
On LC Audio's webpage is a guide for the Teac T-1, Copland CDA-288 and others, and that guide is the one I've been following on the Teac T-1 and a Copland.
There is also a guide for Teac VRDS-10, but that guide is the same word for word, and there is no such thing as for example an orange trimmer on the servo board on a VRDS-10... So I guess there's been a mistake years ago in the guides.
I called them today, but to no avail. They just told me they didn't know the way to do it. I think they were just not interested.
Kind regards,
SFC1000
I have Teac VRDS-10 that I what to use my old Lclock XO and a separate power supply called "XO2 power supply" in. That works well for the Lclock XO.
Wile I know how to do it on say a Teac T-1, as I have that servo board, I am a little unsure on the servo board of the VRDS-10. It's kind of similar in places, and yet there are many differences.
When installing the clock in T-1 or similar, I unsolder the crystal X51, the C51 next to it and C55, which is an orange trimmer close to it.
On the VRDS-10, there is the same X51 crystal, the same c51, but no c55.
But on the other side of the crystal is another c52 capacitor. Both the C51 and C52 are very small ones.
So, on the VRDS-10, and using the external power supply, I suppose I should unsolder the crystal X51, the C51, but also the C52?
I will then only solder in the signal+ in to the crystal's one end and the ground in to the one end of the C51 as per Teac T-1.
Anything else to do? Such as unsoldering C52? Other components?
I am not educated in electronics, but can follow a guide 😉
Any comments and help on this is most appreciated, so I can get it up and running 😉
On LC Audio's webpage is a guide for the Teac T-1, Copland CDA-288 and others, and that guide is the one I've been following on the Teac T-1 and a Copland.
There is also a guide for Teac VRDS-10, but that guide is the same word for word, and there is no such thing as for example an orange trimmer on the servo board on a VRDS-10... So I guess there's been a mistake years ago in the guides.
I called them today, but to no avail. They just told me they didn't know the way to do it. I think they were just not interested.
Kind regards,
SFC1000
Okay, so a friend and I found out. He found a general schematic explaining that there in some cases are two small capacitors around the crystal. Both have to be removed. The are on the same ground path, and nothing is then cut. So solder out capacitor C51, capacitor C52 and the crystal X51. Solder in the new clock out signal wire into the hole from X51 crystal that is towards the center of the whole pcb. Then solder in the gnd wire into the hole of C51 that is towards the outer circumference of the pcb. Power to the new clock generator is a separate transformer and power supply, so + and - are taken from that, and fed into the respective terminals on the clock generator.
Done, and music flows. Better perspective, more details, blacker background. Better sound overall on the Teac VRDS-10 and machines that have a similar drive and layout, such as my new modified Copland CDA-288 Mk. II SE with the Teac P70 superdrive and the Teac VRDS-10 servo board.
More mods on the other thread about that project:
Improving on VRDS CMK 3,2 drive - and Copland CDA-288.
Kind regards,
SFC1000.
Done, and music flows. Better perspective, more details, blacker background. Better sound overall on the Teac VRDS-10 and machines that have a similar drive and layout, such as my new modified Copland CDA-288 Mk. II SE with the Teac P70 superdrive and the Teac VRDS-10 servo board.
More mods on the other thread about that project:
Improving on VRDS CMK 3,2 drive - and Copland CDA-288.
Kind regards,
SFC1000.