• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Tube repair

If there is a hole in the end of the pin, add some thin 63/37 solder inside while heating it. Avoid getting solder on
the outside of the pin, by keeping the tube horizontal or slightly tilted up. Do both pins and measure it again.

Maybe practice on another bad tube first, it's tricky.
 
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I've successfully repaired tubes of that age with high filament resistance: the solder between the socket pin and the wire exiting from the glass bulb had failed. I removed the old solder with a desoldering tool, cleaned the oxidized wire with a tiny needle file, then resoldered with 60/40 solder wire. Reheating the old solder will not give good results. In my case, the wire was badly oxidized.
 
If there is a hole in the end of the pin, add some thin 63/37 solder inside while heating it. Avoid getting solder on
the outside of the pin, by keeping the tube horizontal or slightly tilted up. Do both pins and measure it again.

Maybe practice on another bad tube first, it's tricky.

Thanks Rayma,

I did just that and it worked like a charm. I really didn't want to toss a Speed 295 Triple Twin in the trash.
 
The Speed 295 Triple Twin amp breadboard is playing some nice notes right now. It was a challenge to design due to lack of information about the tube. Right now I have about 260V on the 295 and 230 on a 27 cap coupled gain stage. I'm getting a very clean 4 watts per side. Rectification is two 81 globes. I'll order a power transformer and get this thing in a chassis soon.