Hello,
After years of neglect and abandonment, I have started refurbishing my X2 sl1210 MK2 that used to belong to a mobile dj. I need two phono interfaces and wish to have them available side to side to testy/ compare incremental upgrades. This is my redintrodution to analog after years solely residing on the digital domain.
I used to volunteer in a ln alternative College radio station in the 90s. We had this large mixing board with remote star stop, super nice faders, two mics, 3 sl1200 mk2, 3 CD players and 4 8 track style cartridge with a cassette deck to record your shows. It was awesome, both in functionality and sound quality. I am not interested in dj style mixing but to reproduce ( sans the mic) some of the feeling and functionality of the system for personal use.
My actual system is composed of two aiyima amps, one full range and one sub, connected to a topping dac and pc and Nas box as interface and music repository. As such, there is only a single line input used by the dac.
In order to connect the sl1210s, first I tried with an old Kenwood receiver taken out of storage and using the monitor out to drive the amplifiers. Only one phono interface
My second try has been with a Behringer DXJ900 USB. I can connect both amps (sub and main) and control level independently, the turntable pre is decent and i can have both turntable connected. But it's rather noisy, the master fader is useless over 4 as it hisses too much for my liking.
Other option would be to buy a couple phone interfaces, such as the art dj pre Ii, see ASR review, get some better power supplies and use some kind of passive switch or an avr with preouts, but i believe a mixer may be more flexible.
i am looking for a mixer to be used in hifi, preferebly purely analog, with two good phono preamps, three or more channel with clean sound. On a perfect word i would like to have the tables, CD players and dac conected so i could play all my formats.
Sadly, i cannot afford a broadcast grade 24 channel stereo with remote start stop 🙁
Any of you have set a similar system for personal use or any comment/ suggestions of what may be the best way to go, or a brand of a decent phono analog mixer.
Tks in advance, Francis.
After years of neglect and abandonment, I have started refurbishing my X2 sl1210 MK2 that used to belong to a mobile dj. I need two phono interfaces and wish to have them available side to side to testy/ compare incremental upgrades. This is my redintrodution to analog after years solely residing on the digital domain.
I used to volunteer in a ln alternative College radio station in the 90s. We had this large mixing board with remote star stop, super nice faders, two mics, 3 sl1200 mk2, 3 CD players and 4 8 track style cartridge with a cassette deck to record your shows. It was awesome, both in functionality and sound quality. I am not interested in dj style mixing but to reproduce ( sans the mic) some of the feeling and functionality of the system for personal use.
My actual system is composed of two aiyima amps, one full range and one sub, connected to a topping dac and pc and Nas box as interface and music repository. As such, there is only a single line input used by the dac.
In order to connect the sl1210s, first I tried with an old Kenwood receiver taken out of storage and using the monitor out to drive the amplifiers. Only one phono interface
My second try has been with a Behringer DXJ900 USB. I can connect both amps (sub and main) and control level independently, the turntable pre is decent and i can have both turntable connected. But it's rather noisy, the master fader is useless over 4 as it hisses too much for my liking.
Other option would be to buy a couple phone interfaces, such as the art dj pre Ii, see ASR review, get some better power supplies and use some kind of passive switch or an avr with preouts, but i believe a mixer may be more flexible.
i am looking for a mixer to be used in hifi, preferebly purely analog, with two good phono preamps, three or more channel with clean sound. On a perfect word i would like to have the tables, CD players and dac conected so i could play all my formats.
Sadly, i cannot afford a broadcast grade 24 channel stereo with remote start stop 🙁
Any of you have set a similar system for personal use or any comment/ suggestions of what may be the best way to go, or a brand of a decent phono analog mixer.
Tks in advance, Francis.
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Why not buy a DJ mixer? Allen & Heath have made some highly respected professional audio, recording and broadcast mixing consoles for decades, and make some very highly regarded DJ consoles as well. Most review sites including MixMag rate the Xone-96 as the best DJ console on the market.
The 10 best DJ mixers - Tech - Mixmag
Xone:96 | Allen & Heath
The 10 best DJ mixers - Tech - Mixmag
Xone:96 | Allen & Heath
There is a used tamon disco mixer that looks exactly like my RA-88a on ebay US today. Vintage Tamon Stereo Disco Mixer Mixing Console | eBay
Will hiss & hum, but can be modified as I specified in other thread with quieter op amps and no internal 120 vac parts.
$49 free shipping.
Will hiss & hum, but can be modified as I specified in other thread with quieter op amps and no internal 120 vac parts.
$49 free shipping.
indanako, thks for tthe sugestion, but after doing some rework this weekend, i came to the realization that rework is not for me, I am way too clumsy with a soldering iron (changing the reca signal cable of my sl1200, I slightly burned the jacket of one of the cartridges signal leads and delaminated the board. I glued the pad with epoxy.
Looking for posibilites I found this vendor https://www.muffsy.com/. I like their arduino style switcher.
I will start looking for a better mixer and by now I will keep the one I have. Not great, but will give me time to find out why i need. tks
Looking for posibilites I found this vendor https://www.muffsy.com/. I like their arduino style switcher.
I will start looking for a better mixer and by now I will keep the one I have. Not great, but will give me time to find out why i need. tks
I lifted pcb lands at first. Too low heat for too long destroys the adhesive. A hotter iron and a bigger chisel tip helps you work faster.
I used to try to use Mexican made Weller, but those lost thermal conductivity to the tip in months. I've had to buy a ****ese made iron @#(*^$. Using the Parts-express variable temp one now, set pretty hot.
I use parts-express squeeze bulb to remove solder. You can jam a pick down the tip from the back to knock the old solder out.
Only desoldering on RA-88a mod is removing the 4558 IC, the 330 ohm power supply resistors. You cut the leads off the 4558 and can pull the pins out pretty fast that way. I put in TE connectivity DIP sockets with phosphor-bronze pins, that don't oxidize like copper brass or tin. That way I can play the op amp swap game.
Putting the bypass caps on is drilling #45 holes next to the traces, scraping the coating off the traces, bending the leads of the capacitors over to touch the trace, and adding solder. I use a pin vise for the drill instead of anything electric.
You see the substitute power supply schematic for the RA-88a I built on the link Improving a "Disco mixer" to mid-fi performance - diyAudio . I built it on NemaCE 1/16" board from mcmaster, that I drilled holes in. Screwed board to case with 1" #6 screws with elastic stop nuts. Used 1/4" air tubing for standoffs.
I don't have windows to run a pcb layout program, I run linux. I don't have a printer either.
If you want you can put your own PCB in the tamor case with olddiy's superior circuit on it.
I used to try to use Mexican made Weller, but those lost thermal conductivity to the tip in months. I've had to buy a ****ese made iron @#(*^$. Using the Parts-express variable temp one now, set pretty hot.
I use parts-express squeeze bulb to remove solder. You can jam a pick down the tip from the back to knock the old solder out.
Only desoldering on RA-88a mod is removing the 4558 IC, the 330 ohm power supply resistors. You cut the leads off the 4558 and can pull the pins out pretty fast that way. I put in TE connectivity DIP sockets with phosphor-bronze pins, that don't oxidize like copper brass or tin. That way I can play the op amp swap game.
Putting the bypass caps on is drilling #45 holes next to the traces, scraping the coating off the traces, bending the leads of the capacitors over to touch the trace, and adding solder. I use a pin vise for the drill instead of anything electric.
You see the substitute power supply schematic for the RA-88a I built on the link Improving a "Disco mixer" to mid-fi performance - diyAudio . I built it on NemaCE 1/16" board from mcmaster, that I drilled holes in. Screwed board to case with 1" #6 screws with elastic stop nuts. Used 1/4" air tubing for standoffs.
I don't have windows to run a pcb layout program, I run linux. I don't have a printer either.
If you want you can put your own PCB in the tamor case with olddiy's superior circuit on it.
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I will be looking for a cheap ebay ra88 to mod. My actual mixer a DJX900USB i got it from amazon for less that a 100 (warehouse deals, return with no box). If I can find the ra88at a bargain price, Ill get it. with all your schematics and tips, it seems doable.
Regarding cad, kicad is awesome, even some large organizations as Cern are using for some of their work. Free and available in Linux Download | KiCad EDA Me, I know Eagle so no reason to learn a new package.
Regarding cad, kicad is awesome, even some large organizations as Cern are using for some of their work. Free and available in Linux Download | KiCad EDA Me, I know Eagle so no reason to learn a new package.