Anyone able to advise on the likely culprit component(s) for an A1 that powers on and works up to a certain volume then safety cut out...
Have yet to measure and adjust idle etc.,
Are there any transistors in this model that, if they should need to be replaced, are unobtanium..?
Have yet to measure and adjust idle etc.,
Are there any transistors in this model that, if they should need to be replaced, are unobtanium..?
I don't think this can be guessed, some troubleshooting will be needed.
I'd suggest disconnecting the speakers and measuring the DC offset with a multimeter on the output terminals for each channel at a range of volume settings. This is non-intrusive and may provide useful insight.
I'd suggest disconnecting the speakers and measuring the DC offset with a multimeter on the output terminals for each channel at a range of volume settings. This is non-intrusive and may provide useful insight.
What did you find using the self diagnostics on page 9 of the service manual.
When I was an authorised Yamaha repair agent, before I retired, these used to suffer from drifting quiescent current after being powered with audion for a short time.
DO NOT adjust anything without the service manual or you may have problems.
I am talking about the DSP-A1
When I was an authorised Yamaha repair agent, before I retired, these used to suffer from drifting quiescent current after being powered with audion for a short time.
DO NOT adjust anything without the service manual or you may have problems.
I am talking about the DSP-A1
Cheers Mark, thank you.
I’ll keep this advice in a safe place for the commencement of future troubleshooting.
In this instance, I’ve been offered the amp but the power cut out has been described to me in advance. As it’s purchase would involve a substantial drive I was hoping to eliminate any awful flaws that would mean I’d taken possession of an ‘uneconomical‘ repair.
I appreciate that, in fairness, it can’t be guessed but maybe over time it’s been a common fault.
I’ll keep this advice in a safe place for the commencement of future troubleshooting.
In this instance, I’ve been offered the amp but the power cut out has been described to me in advance. As it’s purchase would involve a substantial drive I was hoping to eliminate any awful flaws that would mean I’d taken possession of an ‘uneconomical‘ repair.
I appreciate that, in fairness, it can’t be guessed but maybe over time it’s been a common fault.
Hey, Jon, thanks!
Well, it’s the A1, not the DSP A1.
Also, on a separate note, I seem to recollect that you’re a NAD 3020 ‘supporter.’
I’ve totally recapped and reflowed and services as best I can my original 3020.
It’s incredible. But... how would you rate the ‘pre’ section of a good NAD3020 against the pre of a Yamaha 2010, or a Yamaha preamp such as the C4, C2a, C70 ?
I have a lovely Yamaha P2200 power amp and I just want to have a preamp that makes the most of it.
Well, it’s the A1, not the DSP A1.
Also, on a separate note, I seem to recollect that you’re a NAD 3020 ‘supporter.’
I’ve totally recapped and reflowed and services as best I can my original 3020.
It’s incredible. But... how would you rate the ‘pre’ section of a good NAD3020 against the pre of a Yamaha 2010, or a Yamaha preamp such as the C4, C2a, C70 ?
I have a lovely Yamaha P2200 power amp and I just want to have a preamp that makes the most of it.
It is a DC coupled amp, so an offset fault in the preamp could be the culprit, especially if the volume control is scratchy when turned.
Hi Jon. Given your Yamaha background, anything to particularly watch out for with regards to the A1?
Is this the one that had a class A option If so I believe the A/B mode switch was prone to a few problems
Trev
Trev