ive seen some bodge jobs, but go knows how whoever got it like this
its drawing quite a bit of current on the lamp tester, but all fuses are in tact so hopefully i wont have to work too hard with it
biggest challenge is going to be making something reasonable out of whats left of the board
its drawing quite a bit of current on the lamp tester, but all fuses are in tact so hopefully i wont have to work too hard with it
biggest challenge is going to be making something reasonable out of whats left of the board
Attachments
Looks like Q421 caught on fire 😱
How will you repair that? My brain says get a patch of perf board close to the pin pitch of the transistor and epoxy it down before repairing the traces but I expect there's a better way?
How will you repair that? My brain says get a patch of perf board close to the pin pitch of the transistor and epoxy it down before repairing the traces but I expect there's a better way?
I have lots of NAD spares Inc this main board so I'll use that then I can repair this one properly while out of the case
Looks like Q421 caught on fire 😱
How will you repair that? My brain says get a patch of perf board close to the pin pitch of the transistor and epoxy it down before repairing the traces but I expect there's a better way?
FYI this amp is a 3240PE with a receiver bolted on, realy good amps
Also think what caused such a big problem.
For a PCB to char, the component would have failed short, or got a very high voltage / current, beyond its capacity.
For a PCB to char, the component would have failed short, or got a very high voltage / current, beyond its capacity.
FYI this amp is a 3240PE with a receiver bolted on, realy good amps
Indeed. I have a 3240PE and love it. I find I notice more subtle details than with the other NAD amps I have and it's no slouch either. I've recapped it and resolved some issues caused by dry solder joints but there's a few niggling issues still to resolve - but not significant enough I can be bothered to delve into it. My 310 is bugging me more. I had one before and regretted selling it - bought a broken unit on eBay and this one is a labour of love that had a cracked PCB that required lots of trace bridging. I carved out the crack and filled in the gap with epoxy to stabilise the repair. I recapped it and set the offset and it works again, but lacks the oomph the previous unit had. I found a discrepancy between the service manual and the actual value of a corroded resistor I replaced, but doubt it could be that simple :?
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