Inspired by the open baffle woofer design by Mr. Nelson, I thought if I can modify it by removing the bottom, since there is floor beneath, and add one side on top of the woofer, making it U shape box, it would still function as open baffle, plus, if desired, or frustrated with lack of bass, one would flip it over and make it pseudo closed box, with bottom missing, but the floor is still there to complete it as slightly leaky closed box. Too long sentence, I know. But the idea is simple.
What do you think? Was this done?
What do you think? Was this done?
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yes
though, only when you try it, you can judge is it adequate for your exact application
maybe you can do some mock up with styrofoam
though, only when you try it, you can judge is it adequate for your exact application
maybe you can do some mock up with styrofoam
What I did to make a slot-loaded bass driver is make a slot of about 1/9th of the surface of the 15 inch driver (for structural reasons, vertical) and had the driver behind it, traditionally facing forward. Allowed me to have the woofer higher.
It sounded very good, Lowther to be crossed at around 150 Hz, the bass around 350 Hz. Very good, loved it, though the balance was hard to get because I had the the PM2A - the most sensitive Lowther. Ended at 50 ohm in series . .
I got many complaints on the size (42 cm wide, 130 high) and my constant tweeking. So got fed up and dumped it.
Have not had such a quality since that time.
Out of frustration I bought a small finished Fostex horn. With a high WCF (Wife's Choice Factor
).
I have been thinking of reversing the woofer, the magnet of my speaker (2A9, the biggest AlNiCo magnet you'll ever see) protruding out up front, the 'slot' being on the back. for fun, . . [But I fear the day it goes to the room]
Ah yes, a baffle side or 'mouth opening' can even be made with cardboard. Because the pressure at low freq. is almost equal both sides. And the side of the baffle can even be made of small slats with openings, the openings work as a filter, giving a smooth roll off (dixit some Japanese who copied it from trains).
So there are different ways to implement the concept.
It sounded very good, Lowther to be crossed at around 150 Hz, the bass around 350 Hz. Very good, loved it, though the balance was hard to get because I had the the PM2A - the most sensitive Lowther. Ended at 50 ohm in series . .
I got many complaints on the size (42 cm wide, 130 high) and my constant tweeking. So got fed up and dumped it.
Have not had such a quality since that time.
Out of frustration I bought a small finished Fostex horn. With a high WCF (Wife's Choice Factor
).I have been thinking of reversing the woofer, the magnet of my speaker (2A9, the biggest AlNiCo magnet you'll ever see) protruding out up front, the 'slot' being on the back. for fun, . . [But I fear the day it goes to the room]
Ah yes, a baffle side or 'mouth opening' can even be made with cardboard. Because the pressure at low freq. is almost equal both sides. And the side of the baffle can even be made of small slats with openings, the openings work as a filter, giving a smooth roll off (dixit some Japanese who copied it from trains).
So there are different ways to implement the concept.
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I used to have arrangement similar to that, I was Lowther fan for years, used DX3 if I remember correctly, was first to use Lowthers on open baffle, was long time ago, ~30 years. All open baffle. Best thing is to biamp it.
Biamp, yes, then the woofer bottom end can be corrected easily too . . .
But do I need another SIT monster then? (my 2SK182 amp is 35 Kg).
But do I need another SIT monster then? (my 2SK182 amp is 35 Kg).
ideally, woofer is powered with classD plate amp with built in adjustable low pass filter, volume and phase, and auto turn on and off...