What are a few good brands of car audio speakers, not subwoofer. door and rear for a chevy c1500 truck. I prefer quality sound over high power.
I don't have any suggestions for the speakers but it may help others to make suggestions if you narrow down the field. For lower cost speakers, it's generally good to go listen to them, in person, since they can vary greatly.
Price range?
Amplifier power driving them?
Truck year model?
Music preferences?
Price range?
Amplifier power driving them?
Truck year model?
Music preferences?
I am probably in the market for medium price speakers. I have a rockford fosgate punch 301x amp. with an eclipse 8443cd headunit. It's in a chevy 1995 c1500 extended cab. Very little room in the doors or rear pillars where the original speakers are located.
If you haven't done so already, you may try posting this on a Chevy truck forum for this series/year truck, as well.
Crutchfield's site can tell you what fits the truck. Take that information to the Amazon site (buy locally if possible) to read reviews on any speakers that you're considering buying.
Crutchfield's site can tell you what fits the truck. Take that information to the Amazon site (buy locally if possible) to read reviews on any speakers that you're considering buying.
I would love to recommend something. But I have to say as well, "Good" Speakers are just about anything you buy. All speakers are sort of "good" Middle of the road parts.
From what I can tell you have 6.5 in the front doors, and 6x9's in the back.
If your goal is quality on a budget value and you have the ability to go active from the headunit? AND Quality is your overall goal?
You can go as low as the Famous 6.5 woofer from Parts express, as there are TONS of Builds with those used for cars. They work just fine in doors when low power high fidelity is a concern. As long as you treat your doors, and take steps to maximize the installation? that $6.oo woofer will work just fine for a LOW output level system if you can use a wideband driver and a tweeter in the A pillars.
CTS sound has some Nice parts that are turn key for less then $100 bucks that use quality parts. But going active will always give you much more then the stock X/O upgrades from a cost benefit standpoint.
If not? The Alpine Type S will fit great in the doors, has a 12/dB crossover, and has a very nice detailed sound and clean as long as you do not go over 20 watts RMS as anymore brings in driver breakup and distortion if run bellow 80 Hz with modern Top 40 music of the day. They are made for head unit power, so they do Very well with 15-20 watts.
If you want to lose some realism and imagining for the sake of clear even and balance and noise and rattle free sound? (Your Basic 80/90's build where the woofers in the back did much of the 160 Hz and bellow so you get that strong kick drum that you may be use to in your home system? (Think HTIAB systems) And are okay with that kind of sound reproduction? Then the Easy route is to just get a Skar audio 6.5, ($45 a pair, or $35 with the EBAY coupon of $10 bucks off if you buy from your phone Ebay App..)
You could have your whole front stage done with a simple Painted MDF Ring (Plywood recommended) that will give you lots of flexibility, and overall a very detailed system as long as you use E.Q. and some form of BASIC Time alignment. that is on Most Headinits.
These drivers don't really fuss working lower then the 100hz rated, and they still are very clear and Punchy as long as you can use the "Sub" woofers at a STEEP cutoff to fill in what these small 6.5's are just not made to do.
Mikes Life in speed has tested these on his channel, and they work pretty well. Better in a more free air situation in doors, and go much lower that way as well. SO its a Drop and go solution till you are ready to put some real system planing in place and goals.
Just about anything can sound good a low power. But to get that Clear Fidelity? Home Audio style listening? An 8" driver with a Proper door build, with a wideband driver and a fantastic tweeter of your choice coupled with good crossover slopes, (active/Passive Hybrid system) You can really get Great results.
Cost of the drivers Is a Second to me as I proved that with PROPER Foundations of Door Deading, Speaker placement, and matching things like the "Q" of a driver and its performance in how it is installed in the space that it has to work with has been IMO, a better way to get great results then speaker cost or brand.
I am in NO way Peter from PS sound. Or Anyone like the Audio greats that are on here.
Most of these men and women on here are legends. And if you seen what they had to work with back in the day? And what they were able to Build from those parts?
Just about any good quality woofer you purchase can be used to make a Great system.
My last piece of advice just Like Mr. Babin recommended is to See what speakers you have at home that you love their house sound, and try their car audio counterparts if that is an option.
Amazon offers a great Prime deal where you can test and try parts till you get the sound you like. So I would just Buy, Try and return until you find what you are looking for.
Don't worry. Amazon can AFFORD IT 🙂 Use that Prime Membership for all its worth. Its what its for. That's how Online shopping works. And as you know? Covid etc.. 🙂
Best part is? Some guy like me gets your Leftovers for a GREAT DEAL! 🙂
For Quick and dirty? Here ya go.
CT sounds RECOIL
$40.00
JBL GTO Set
$89.00
Skar Audio TX65C
$119.99
Cheap sound deader 36 Sqare feet.
$57.99
SPeaker wire harness adaptors
$10.99
That should get you started.
I hope that gives you some system ideas.
By no means is this a Definitive list, but its the major Go to's for people to start out with.
From what I can tell you have 6.5 in the front doors, and 6x9's in the back.
If your goal is quality on a budget value and you have the ability to go active from the headunit? AND Quality is your overall goal?
You can go as low as the Famous 6.5 woofer from Parts express, as there are TONS of Builds with those used for cars. They work just fine in doors when low power high fidelity is a concern. As long as you treat your doors, and take steps to maximize the installation? that $6.oo woofer will work just fine for a LOW output level system if you can use a wideband driver and a tweeter in the A pillars.
CTS sound has some Nice parts that are turn key for less then $100 bucks that use quality parts. But going active will always give you much more then the stock X/O upgrades from a cost benefit standpoint.
If not? The Alpine Type S will fit great in the doors, has a 12/dB crossover, and has a very nice detailed sound and clean as long as you do not go over 20 watts RMS as anymore brings in driver breakup and distortion if run bellow 80 Hz with modern Top 40 music of the day. They are made for head unit power, so they do Very well with 15-20 watts.
If you want to lose some realism and imagining for the sake of clear even and balance and noise and rattle free sound? (Your Basic 80/90's build where the woofers in the back did much of the 160 Hz and bellow so you get that strong kick drum that you may be use to in your home system? (Think HTIAB systems) And are okay with that kind of sound reproduction? Then the Easy route is to just get a Skar audio 6.5, ($45 a pair, or $35 with the EBAY coupon of $10 bucks off if you buy from your phone Ebay App..)
You could have your whole front stage done with a simple Painted MDF Ring (Plywood recommended) that will give you lots of flexibility, and overall a very detailed system as long as you use E.Q. and some form of BASIC Time alignment. that is on Most Headinits.
These drivers don't really fuss working lower then the 100hz rated, and they still are very clear and Punchy as long as you can use the "Sub" woofers at a STEEP cutoff to fill in what these small 6.5's are just not made to do.
Mikes Life in speed has tested these on his channel, and they work pretty well. Better in a more free air situation in doors, and go much lower that way as well. SO its a Drop and go solution till you are ready to put some real system planing in place and goals.
Just about anything can sound good a low power. But to get that Clear Fidelity? Home Audio style listening? An 8" driver with a Proper door build, with a wideband driver and a fantastic tweeter of your choice coupled with good crossover slopes, (active/Passive Hybrid system) You can really get Great results.
Cost of the drivers Is a Second to me as I proved that with PROPER Foundations of Door Deading, Speaker placement, and matching things like the "Q" of a driver and its performance in how it is installed in the space that it has to work with has been IMO, a better way to get great results then speaker cost or brand.
I am in NO way Peter from PS sound. Or Anyone like the Audio greats that are on here.
Most of these men and women on here are legends. And if you seen what they had to work with back in the day? And what they were able to Build from those parts?
Just about any good quality woofer you purchase can be used to make a Great system.
My last piece of advice just Like Mr. Babin recommended is to See what speakers you have at home that you love their house sound, and try their car audio counterparts if that is an option.
Amazon offers a great Prime deal where you can test and try parts till you get the sound you like. So I would just Buy, Try and return until you find what you are looking for.
Don't worry. Amazon can AFFORD IT 🙂 Use that Prime Membership for all its worth. Its what its for. That's how Online shopping works. And as you know? Covid etc.. 🙂
Best part is? Some guy like me gets your Leftovers for a GREAT DEAL! 🙂
For Quick and dirty? Here ya go.
CT sounds RECOIL
$40.00
JBL GTO Set
$89.00
Skar Audio TX65C
$119.99
Cheap sound deader 36 Sqare feet.
$57.99
SPeaker wire harness adaptors
$10.99
That should get you started.
I hope that gives you some system ideas.
By no means is this a Definitive list, but its the major Go to's for people to start out with.