Hi I own the Akai for some 40 years but now the synchronous motor driving the switch on/off mechanism failed. I don’t think I’ll be able to find a replacement with the same specs and shaft (D-shape). I can scrap it and start using the Technics or modify the Akai, make it fully manual. Please advise, would this modification be worth it or is the SL-5 in the same range or maybe even better? I guess you’re going to say it depends on the cartridge/stylus but suppose I’ll make sure those are in the same league; what would you say?
The rubber ‘feet’ of the Akai are fairly worn btw.
The rubber ‘feet’ of the Akai are fairly worn btw.
What do you mean by "failed" ???
Are you stuck?
Did it overheat and stop working?
Did it fall from its original position because the rubber anchor bushings rotted?
So many things can happen in 40 years ...
Are you stuck?
Did it overheat and stop working?
Did it fall from its original position because the rubber anchor bushings rotted?
So many things can happen in 40 years ...
Well the Technics SL-5 is a totally different technology turntable, being a linear tracking model. It's wow and flutter and rumble specs are (on paper) better than the akai.
However, it works with P-mount cartridges so how many options you have there to choose from? Not many i believe.
Have you ever listened to both using the same record and same amp/speakers?
How did they compare?
The Akai on the other hand, although it looks like a common Japanese turntable of that ERA , a closer look reveals that it may not be so common... It's even got tonearm height adjustment screws (VTA adjustment) something not every deck of that time (even not today) had.
I'd try to fix it if i was you and i couldn't care less about its worn feet (sorbothane hemispheres is the answer to that).
Actually, if i had a linear tracking turntable in my collection (as you do) i would definitely keep them both 🙂
Let me say this:
I have owned (and sold/replaced) several turntables all my years, both new and vintage, played with lots of mods on a number of them, listened to different kind of cartridges using different kinds of isolation solutions and my final conclusion is that the cartridge/stylus type one uses makes for (conservatively) 70% of all the sonic difference.
So try to fix the akai because you can use 1/2" cartridges on it, and donate your SL5 to me 🙂 (just kidding about the donation).
Which means: KEEP THEM BOTH 🙂
However, it works with P-mount cartridges so how many options you have there to choose from? Not many i believe.
Have you ever listened to both using the same record and same amp/speakers?
How did they compare?
The Akai on the other hand, although it looks like a common Japanese turntable of that ERA , a closer look reveals that it may not be so common... It's even got tonearm height adjustment screws (VTA adjustment) something not every deck of that time (even not today) had.
I'd try to fix it if i was you and i couldn't care less about its worn feet (sorbothane hemispheres is the answer to that).
Actually, if i had a linear tracking turntable in my collection (as you do) i would definitely keep them both 🙂
Let me say this:
I have owned (and sold/replaced) several turntables all my years, both new and vintage, played with lots of mods on a number of them, listened to different kind of cartridges using different kinds of isolation solutions and my final conclusion is that the cartridge/stylus type one uses makes for (conservatively) 70% of all the sonic difference.
So try to fix the akai because you can use 1/2" cartridges on it, and donate your SL5 to me 🙂 (just kidding about the donation).
Which means: KEEP THEM BOTH 🙂
You're welcome.
Btw could you provide some details and/or photos of the failed motor in your Akai?
There are many wonderful and knowledgeable electronics engineers in this forum who might be able to provide some help with the issue.
Btw could you provide some details and/or photos of the failed motor in your Akai?
There are many wonderful and knowledgeable electronics engineers in this forum who might be able to provide some help with the issue.
This is the culprit! What happens is that at some point in its cycle, it cannot deliver the necessary torque, it starts to make a ticking sound, I suspect because one or more gear wheels do not interlock, probably because of wear. I did not open the motor because I think it is a dead end; but suggestions are welcome!
I found a similar motor but if I'm interpreting its specs correctly it spins at 3 rpm.
Now, yours says 4/4.8 rpm . I guess that would be equal to 0.833 rpm ? (assuming that when they type 4/4.8 in the specs sticker, they mean a division of 4 by 4.8 ??? )
Japan / Nidec Servo D-5N Synchronous Motor 1.5W CW 3 rpm | eBay
I have hopes you can find an even closer match?
Now, yours says 4/4.8 rpm . I guess that would be equal to 0.833 rpm ? (assuming that when they type 4/4.8 in the specs sticker, they mean a division of 4 by 4.8 ??? )
Japan / Nidec Servo D-5N Synchronous Motor 1.5W CW 3 rpm | eBay
I have hopes you can find an even closer match?
No. It has ratings for 50Hz and 60Hz. At 50Hz it spins 4 RPM. At 60hz it spins 4.8RPM.
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I’ll let you know as soon as I received it and fitted it! It’s still underway (on the last leg now, from customs to my house;-) I am very curious
It arrived,i’ll try to insert it one of these days! It really has exactly the same dimensions, only the shaft is shorter, hope that won’t be a problem. I pried the old motor open, cannot be fixed as I thought, see photo, the last gear wheel is cracked.
And it works! Many thanks @safe1 for finding the motor and others for kind advice! Now the Akai is ready for the next 40 years ;-)