It depends on the potting compound used.
What make/model amp?
The most effective method I found for the compound that I saw most was to use heat. Some of the compound has a melting/breakdown point that's very near that of the solder which makes removing it with heat a bit tricky. Knowing the board helps greatly.
What make/model amp?
The most effective method I found for the compound that I saw most was to use heat. Some of the compound has a melting/breakdown point that's very near that of the solder which makes removing it with heat a bit tricky. Knowing the board helps greatly.
Looks like 2 part epoxy.
We used to use an smd reflow hot air pencil and hand tools such as cutters, sharp screwdrivers, etc.
Not recommended for beginners or even amateurs as the heat will destroy parts and also melt the solder meaning as you peel or chip the epoxy away some parts will come away as well.
We destroyed many many boards till we got the feel for what was needed.
And even then it was a gamble.
Oh, and the fumes, yeah use as much forced ventilation as is humanly possible.
We used to use an smd reflow hot air pencil and hand tools such as cutters, sharp screwdrivers, etc.
Not recommended for beginners or even amateurs as the heat will destroy parts and also melt the solder meaning as you peel or chip the epoxy away some parts will come away as well.
We destroyed many many boards till we got the feel for what was needed.
And even then it was a gamble.
Oh, and the fumes, yeah use as much forced ventilation as is humanly possible.
After you do one or two (preferably on junker boards), only the potting compound on the parts that fail is removed. That's increases the success rate. I don't understand why manufacturers do this (or keep diagrams confidential). It won't stop design engineers from reverse engineering. It only hurts service tech and the amp owners.