I tried searching the forum and was surprised to get minimal hits.
What do you use for speaker cables in your DIY speaker builds, especially when shooting for the best possible sound (as opposed to keeping it low cost)?
Mine is an active system so will have a pair to tweeters, a pair to mids, and big woofers are less of a concern as they have the class-D amp attached onto the speaker stand so cable length is under two feet.
Right now I'm prototyping the speaker, experimenting, and speaker wires are temporarily regular PVC multistranded mono cable used for wiring the house and have two separate wires laying on the floor for each driver so inductance/capitance is likely a nightmare. Would like to get a sense of how you guys do it so to decide if I get a temporary improvement until I finish development and getting new amps, or go for the "final" cables before that.
Twisted pair, star quad with teflon insulation (such as VH Audio 4x18AWG), OCC copper/silver wire with teflon in any particular geometry, Kimber Kable 4TC or 8TC sold bulk (or other finished cable sold in bulk), or just use branded speaker cables?
If you DIY, how do you prioritize geometry vs conductor material vs insulation materials?
Thank you!
What do you use for speaker cables in your DIY speaker builds, especially when shooting for the best possible sound (as opposed to keeping it low cost)?
Mine is an active system so will have a pair to tweeters, a pair to mids, and big woofers are less of a concern as they have the class-D amp attached onto the speaker stand so cable length is under two feet.
Right now I'm prototyping the speaker, experimenting, and speaker wires are temporarily regular PVC multistranded mono cable used for wiring the house and have two separate wires laying on the floor for each driver so inductance/capitance is likely a nightmare. Would like to get a sense of how you guys do it so to decide if I get a temporary improvement until I finish development and getting new amps, or go for the "final" cables before that.
Twisted pair, star quad with teflon insulation (such as VH Audio 4x18AWG), OCC copper/silver wire with teflon in any particular geometry, Kimber Kable 4TC or 8TC sold bulk (or other finished cable sold in bulk), or just use branded speaker cables?
If you DIY, how do you prioritize geometry vs conductor material vs insulation materials?
Thank you!
I confess not to take much concern about the influence of speaker cabling on a speaker's performance. I think its more critical with single ended triode amps ie, low damping factor and very load reactive.
I use 14g litz wire in most cases, sometimes 12g with higher power, longer runs.
Past that level of cabling I fail to hear a difference. My amplification is very insensitive to most external influences.
I use 14g litz wire in most cases, sometimes 12g with higher power, longer runs.
Past that level of cabling I fail to hear a difference. My amplification is very insensitive to most external influences.
Mogami w3104, w2921, w2972.( neglex ( ofc), all starquad, 4x4mm2, 4x2,5mm2, 4x2mm2).
Speakon ( Neutrik) connectors ( mandatory for 3104), directly welded to drivers.
( multiamp system).
Speakon ( Neutrik) connectors ( mandatory for 3104), directly welded to drivers.
( multiamp system).
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Multistranded cable for flexability and of sufficient gauge for the power level and cable length is all that is required, add OFC copper for resistance to corrosion which is a bigger problem than most everything else over the long term. I have everything from 18ga lamp cord to 14/4 SOOW to 12ga monster cable in use in the various audio systems around my place. Oh almost forgot.. There is some Cat5 being used as speaker cables in the garage, this breaks all the rules but guess what, it works.
Yeah, only reason to use audiophile speaker cable is if you are selling to audiophile market. Either way the performance is pretty much the same if the resistance per meter is the same. If you compare measurements of similar gauge and length of audiophile cable and regular cable, or do blind listening test, you should notice the only difference is the price and looks. It is possible to affect sound if you use too long cables (coiling adds inductance, length resistance).
Not another wire thread... 😱
I give it 72 hours. Takers? 😉
However, in the spirit of answering the question: Supra Classic 4.0 because it's a quality, inexpensive parallel-feeder wire (keeping capacitance and inductance sane), with a resistance low enough to ensure little voltage drop over the loop length I use. As it happens, I was given it as an end-of-reel, and it replaced a studio speaker wire of the same gauge & configuration because it's physically a little less obtrusive and easier to route in my currently modest space.
Edit:
As a minor note -I'd avoid silver if it is likely to come into contact with teflon. It's a rotten combination from a triboelectric perspective.
I give it 72 hours. Takers? 😉
However, in the spirit of answering the question: Supra Classic 4.0 because it's a quality, inexpensive parallel-feeder wire (keeping capacitance and inductance sane), with a resistance low enough to ensure little voltage drop over the loop length I use. As it happens, I was given it as an end-of-reel, and it replaced a studio speaker wire of the same gauge & configuration because it's physically a little less obtrusive and easier to route in my currently modest space.
Edit:
As a minor note -I'd avoid silver if it is likely to come into contact with teflon. It's a rotten combination from a triboelectric perspective.
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The Mogami-recommendation is good.
Since you seem to be attracted by funny ideas about cables, I recommend to go the full length and experiment your way through, as feasible.
I am also a bit bitten by it and just had to find it out myself. My conclusion is not so clear: I don‘t really believe in cable-magic, but OTOH have some favorites. (Most of it is rather due to fancyness and goodlooking, SQ not so much). Still, I have a mogami 2804 on my bench [emoji14]
Basically, i rather trust the masters here. Or take Papa‘s advice …
Since you seem to be attracted by funny ideas about cables, I recommend to go the full length and experiment your way through, as feasible.
I am also a bit bitten by it and just had to find it out myself. My conclusion is not so clear: I don‘t really believe in cable-magic, but OTOH have some favorites. (Most of it is rather due to fancyness and goodlooking, SQ not so much). Still, I have a mogami 2804 on my bench [emoji14]
Basically, i rather trust the masters here. Or take Papa‘s advice …
I use either 4x14 AWG or 2x12 AWG with a Neutrik speakON in one end and whatever matches the speaker at the other. I go with GLS cable because it's reasonably affordable and seems to conduct electricity just fine. It's also pretty finely stranded and has a soft rubber jacket which makes it easy to run.
Tom
Tom
I use domestic electrical wiring (yes, the regular one) for my speakers. Works really well, but the colours do vary. 🙂
i use 10€ ones from sommercable. they don't fall apart immediately and everything else is voodoo nonesense
I like solid core and air dielectric.
For 45wpc system, I twist a few gauges of magnet wire with hand drill, scrape the varnish off the ends.
For 45wpc system, I twist a few gauges of magnet wire with hand drill, scrape the varnish off the ends.
Mogami, Carol SJ, Belden, Canare; just make it sufficient gauge.
16 internal, 10-14 external.
BFA-Z nanners, or Speakons,
Wolf
16 internal, 10-14 external.
BFA-Z nanners, or Speakons,
Wolf
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