Im looking at using this style of socket in my next build with a 2mm aluminium chassis.
Will they fit? Im guessing the thickness of the ring will make it too tight?
Any other suggestions? Im getting it laser cut, so shape is nothing to worry about with punches, etc.

Will they fit? Im guessing the thickness of the ring will make it too tight?
Any other suggestions? Im getting it laser cut, so shape is nothing to worry about with punches, etc.
I never machine anything unless I have the parts in hand and can put a micrometer / caliper on them. Id spend the $3 for a sample to measure before ordering a custom machined chassis or it could be a costly mistake.
I never machine anything unless I have the parts in hand and can put a micrometer / caliper on them. Id spend the $3 for a sample to measure before ordering a custom machined chassis or it could be a costly mistake.
Well thats the thing, I dont want to buy these sockets if they are no good, I dont have any to measure, I thought there may have been a few builders using such sockets and would have the experience hence why im asking 😉
The Russian ones I have, all have a 3mm slot and the ring is very thin (about 0.6mm) spring steel. The wave rings are very strong, but I haven't tried them with chassis thickness over 1.2mm
Why not use sockets with under-chassis mount rings?
jeff
Isint that what these are?
I could just go with the typical sort that use two bolts, but what I like about these is you can easily move them around to suit your position without needing to drill any holes in the right place
The Russian ones I have, all have a 3mm slot and the ring is very thin (about 0.6mm) spring steel. The wave rings are very strong, but I haven't tried them with chassis thickness over 1.2mm
That looks about the same measurements as what an ebay seller told me when asking on their listing.
He also said the ring overlaps in one part, so will be double thickness, taking it to 3.2mm with the chassis.
Doesnt look like they will work. I cant really go to a thinner aluminium either as these transformers are fairly heavy and ive got about 3 of the things on the chassis.
I saw countless times these sockets w/circular waved springs on steel chassis(0,8 to,say,1,5mm thickness) but never on aluminium (especially 2mm thick).Not that the Al that you use is TOO thick (I use sometimes up to 5mm) but obviously these sockets are made for thinner chassis'.
However,there is a possible solution for your problem.There are some industrial-made "adapters" for this kind of sockets (see the pics),maybe you can get some of these?
However,there is a possible solution for your problem.There are some industrial-made "adapters" for this kind of sockets (see the pics),maybe you can get some of these?
Attachments
Im looking at using this style of socket in my next build with a 2mm aluminium chassis.
Mounting sockets to a chassis is simple but not a great idea. This might be a chance to find a clever way to build your amp with sockets just UNDER the chassis but not touching....
I never machine anything unless I have the parts in hand and can put a micrometer / caliper on them. Id spend the $3 for a sample to measure before ordering a custom machined chassis or it could be a costly mistake.
All you need to do is run the machine in reverse f you make a mistake 😀
If you use the type like Sorin Cristea suggested above, then if you really need the flexibility of being able to twist the sockets, you can remove the locking tab on the plate that is attached to the top plate, so the socket part swivels on the plate.
Yes,the socket itself can be positioned in 8 different angles respective to the octal key/plate position (if fixed),due to the two inner dents of the plate (see attached pic).If you use the type like Sorin Cristea suggested above, then if you really need the flexibility of being able to twist the sockets, you can remove the locking tab on the plate that is attached to the top plate, so the socket part swivels on the plate.
Attachments
I saw countless times these sockets w/circular waved springs on steel chassis(0,8 to,say,1,5mm thickness) but never on aluminium (especially 2mm thick).Not that the Al that you use is TOO thick (I use sometimes up to 5mm) but obviously these sockets are made for thinner chassis'.
However,there is a possible solution for your problem.There are some industrial-made "adapters" for this kind of sockets (see the pics),maybe you can get some of these?
Yes Ive seen some sockets advertised that are essentially just the ring mount type sold with the adapter.
Mounting sockets to a chassis is simple but not a great idea. This might be a chance to find a clever way to build your amp with sockets just UNDER the chassis but not touching....
I was looking at ways around this and could machine a rebate on the top to allow the socket to sit in deeper and make enough space for the ring.
If you use the type like Sorin Cristea suggested above, then if you really need the flexibility of being able to twist the sockets, you can remove the locking tab on the plate that is attached to the top plate, so the socket part swivels on the plate.
I may end up going down that route anyway, as its quite often handy to utilize the bolt holes as an earthing point for cathode resistors, etc.
I second the "machine a relief" comment.
You've got it in the vise, in a cnc mill, do a pocket centered on the socket and thin the metal to fit.
Also, measure things yourself prior to machining
You get more accurate measurements in your chosen units, without any extra significant figures and no rounding.
You've got it in the vise, in a cnc mill, do a pocket centered on the socket and thin the metal to fit.
Also, measure things yourself prior to machining
You get more accurate measurements in your chosen units, without any extra significant figures and no rounding.
I second the "machine a relief" comment.
You've got it in the vise, in a cnc mill, do a pocket centered on the socket and thin the metal to fit.
Also, measure things yourself prior to machining
You get more accurate measurements in your chosen units, without any extra significant figures and no rounding.
Agreed, I think for a start I will draw a mock up layout and see where the components need to go, I know the bolt holes double as a good place to mount a soldering tag for earthing some components, but more holes and screws can make it look less tidy. I was going to get it laser cut, but will need to go down the CNC path if i want to machine a rebate around the sockets.
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