Hello.
I have a Dual 731q with a superb EDS-920 DD motor. The table works fine, but I've always hated the plasticky plint, the tonearm and all the auto-stuff.
My plan is to build an all manual DD (on/off basicly) with an off-board tonearm, and wonder if its an "easy fix" to remove the mechanical and electrical parts i don't need for the "new" table. I have a good portion of common sense (cabinetmaker), but i'm no advanced DIY'er, so if this project needs more than that, please let me know.
Steen
I have a Dual 731q with a superb EDS-920 DD motor. The table works fine, but I've always hated the plasticky plint, the tonearm and all the auto-stuff.
My plan is to build an all manual DD (on/off basicly) with an off-board tonearm, and wonder if its an "easy fix" to remove the mechanical and electrical parts i don't need for the "new" table. I have a good portion of common sense (cabinetmaker), but i'm no advanced DIY'er, so if this project needs more than that, please let me know.
Steen
Hi Dyolf
Be not deterred! Pull the thing apart after measuring critical dimensions such as top of plynth to top of platter, relative height to tonearm and the most critical, the centre distance of the tonearm pivot to platter centre. It's generally very easy to remove the unwanted parts and common sense will tell you what to leave intact. Another important detail is to keep the horizontal and vertical planes of the motor / platter and the tonearm parallel. I've done this many times with various DIY TT projects and it's very rewarding. Don't try to make your new one too complicated and you'll be pleased with the results. Good luck.
Regards John L.
Be not deterred! Pull the thing apart after measuring critical dimensions such as top of plynth to top of platter, relative height to tonearm and the most critical, the centre distance of the tonearm pivot to platter centre. It's generally very easy to remove the unwanted parts and common sense will tell you what to leave intact. Another important detail is to keep the horizontal and vertical planes of the motor / platter and the tonearm parallel. I've done this many times with various DIY TT projects and it's very rewarding. Don't try to make your new one too complicated and you'll be pleased with the results. Good luck.
Regards John L.
I'm confident about everything regarding geometry and mathematics, but when it comes to the electronics its a whole different story. The motor has a perfect timing on both 33,3 and 45 rpm, so i will ditch the pitch-kontroll-pots and fancy green/red lights. The electrical cueing-magnets wil also be removed. Worst case scenario is that i leave everything electrical as it is, and just hide it away in the new plinth😉
If I were you Steen, I'd do my best to retain the pitch control pots. Usually you can leave everything wired the way it is and find a place for it. Even if you build a power supply box to house the electronics. I'm not familiar with that model, but very often when I'm dealing with a direct drive motor TT, I house the electronics remote from the base and use an XLR type plug to feed the motor.
John L.
John L.
Hi, I have done that with a Dual701 (bad arm and auto section). Keep the controls as they may be needed later. You can transplant the drive assembly and controls fairly easy. Be sure the drive is level in the new plinth and the arm is at the right distance and level as well. I used a Jelco 370 arm on mine. Tone arms come in several lengths and the different lengths do require different mounting distances. Many (like the 370) are similar. Origin Live and all its variants and Rega use the same distance (237mm). Others use shorter and longer values. I don't recall what the original Dual arms are. Generally nice arms, but may be tricky to mount.
Thanks for the input. I like the idea about keeping all the electronics as is, and just hide the things not needed. This will be a stand-alone drive, so arm decisions will come later. Tonearm will be long and stand mounted. That EDS motor is awe inspiring with some nice specs, and the platter almost 2kgs.
steen
steen
