I've heard these woofers have issues with coil getting unglued from woofer but wasn't able to find anything that will illustrate the flaw vividly
I got a set of new old stock 17w75xl 4ohm
What can be done to prevent failures of these drivers
I got a set of new old stock 17w75xl 4ohm
What can be done to prevent failures of these drivers
Is it the solder bond between the copper braid and the aluminum voice coil?
I saw a bad joint on one years ago and managed to reflow the solder to get the driver to work.
I saw a bad joint on one years ago and managed to reflow the solder to get the driver to work.
So yes some saw a lot of tinsel lead getting dissociated from voice coil terminals on the cone
"If it's of any use to you, and if you're replacing the driver because it has failed, I used that very driver in my designs in the 1980's. I saw a lot of tinsel lead failure. If you have a non-working 17W75, check the tinsel leads, you might be able to get it working again with a little soldering."
Dynaudio 17W75XL mid/bass driver replacement help needed | Steve Hoffman Music Forums
The other issues seems to be voice coil getting separated from the cone as described here
"
Much research from '86 through '96 was done by me on the series of Dynaudio 17W75 type woofers, the XL's included.
The gule that attaches the cone (dish shaped) to the voice coil has a gap in it and what you are hearing is the voice coil vibrating against the cone. This is a difficult repair. It means getting glue (silicone works) in the affected area via hypo needle. Where the cone ridges are (voice coil attachment..you need to insert silicone (clear my preference) metered to 0.1mL into (16) areas from the front of the cone. Very small holes. It will re-adhere the cone to the voice coil. For balance, you need to do the other good woofer as well. Yor f3 will drop a few HZ (due to the extra 0.9 grams of mass) but this is the fix. If you care to replace, you need to relace both of them. The red sticker on the magnet..is it an L series..as in L41 or something like that? What series? L's and M's had this problem.
Also, if the VC looks crimpled (looking at the aluminium former from outside) damaged from slapping the top plate and back plate..then forget the glue. The glue does harden and become brittle and flake leaving gaps between the VC/Cone. Silicone will not. I suspect this is the problem that the glue will repair. Allow 36 hours to fully cure.
When appliying the glue, use a 1.5 to 3 volt source in correct polarity to force the cone foward via VC..this will assure a firm bond. You will need to change the batteries as the large 3" voice coil will draw about 1.28Amps /3V D'Cell in series of 3 volts. It would be advantagous to use a varible power supply to displace cone with DC..just keep it under 3V, as to not heat the coil too much.
I have done extensive research with the XL. This will work if the VC is not crimped. I use to actually have several prebuilt parts for them during driver modification for a possible production..until dynaudio got "new and improved" and killed the DIY market. Now I use Scan-Speak. I find them even nicer in many ways."
That's the original source
Audio Asylum Thread Printer
Just wondering how prevalent these issues are. I never over drive speakers. I watch xmax as they move and use 6"woofers for 60hz+ frequencies.
"If it's of any use to you, and if you're replacing the driver because it has failed, I used that very driver in my designs in the 1980's. I saw a lot of tinsel lead failure. If you have a non-working 17W75, check the tinsel leads, you might be able to get it working again with a little soldering."
Dynaudio 17W75XL mid/bass driver replacement help needed | Steve Hoffman Music Forums
The other issues seems to be voice coil getting separated from the cone as described here
"
Much research from '86 through '96 was done by me on the series of Dynaudio 17W75 type woofers, the XL's included.
The gule that attaches the cone (dish shaped) to the voice coil has a gap in it and what you are hearing is the voice coil vibrating against the cone. This is a difficult repair. It means getting glue (silicone works) in the affected area via hypo needle. Where the cone ridges are (voice coil attachment..you need to insert silicone (clear my preference) metered to 0.1mL into (16) areas from the front of the cone. Very small holes. It will re-adhere the cone to the voice coil. For balance, you need to do the other good woofer as well. Yor f3 will drop a few HZ (due to the extra 0.9 grams of mass) but this is the fix. If you care to replace, you need to relace both of them. The red sticker on the magnet..is it an L series..as in L41 or something like that? What series? L's and M's had this problem.
Also, if the VC looks crimpled (looking at the aluminium former from outside) damaged from slapping the top plate and back plate..then forget the glue. The glue does harden and become brittle and flake leaving gaps between the VC/Cone. Silicone will not. I suspect this is the problem that the glue will repair. Allow 36 hours to fully cure.
When appliying the glue, use a 1.5 to 3 volt source in correct polarity to force the cone foward via VC..this will assure a firm bond. You will need to change the batteries as the large 3" voice coil will draw about 1.28Amps /3V D'Cell in series of 3 volts. It would be advantagous to use a varible power supply to displace cone with DC..just keep it under 3V, as to not heat the coil too much.
I have done extensive research with the XL. This will work if the VC is not crimped. I use to actually have several prebuilt parts for them during driver modification for a possible production..until dynaudio got "new and improved" and killed the DIY market. Now I use Scan-Speak. I find them even nicer in many ways."
That's the original source
Audio Asylum Thread Printer
Just wondering how prevalent these issues are. I never over drive speakers. I watch xmax as they move and use 6"woofers for 60hz+ frequencies.
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