I have a Roksan Kandy that is wired for 230, is it possible to configure it for 120 here in the US? Unfortunately I can't find a schematic.
Hoping it's a dual voltage transformer, there is an unused white coming off the transformer. The transformer is a Toroid, TI-67381A.
From what I understand it would be 2x 115v primaries that are currently wired in series, the white would be used to wire in parallel to get 115v with twice the amps (need larger fuse).
Can I test to see if this is correct?
Hoping it's a dual voltage transformer, there is an unused white coming off the transformer. The transformer is a Toroid, TI-67381A.
From what I understand it would be 2x 115v primaries that are currently wired in series, the white would be used to wire in parallel to get 115v with twice the amps (need larger fuse).
Can I test to see if this is correct?
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I found it difficult to find much infos for any Kandy predecessors. They differ enough to mention versions l through lll. What version do you have? I was hard pressed to find much on the MKlll other than transformer sizes and output other generic specs. I wanted to remove the auto on/off, I founf that only feature very undesirable (even irritating). It could use a soft start feature. But now I'm being too fussy. I had all of them at one point in time the three is my favorite. I would be happy to own another now. Sorry I couldn't be much help. I wish I had more I could offer. Press on they are really great sounding punchy controlled clean sounding amplifiers well worth keeping in the arsenal. I let it go :* thinking I was bettering it in the process.
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I’ve you have a good meter, try unhooking the wires and run the white wires like you stated and see what bolts come out
The Roksan Kandy --made in England ,sell 3 versions of their integrated amplifier .
First Product is 220 volts -240 volts AC .
Second product is 110 volts-120 volts AC .
Third product is 90 volts-110 volts AC .
Both power amp and integrated amp are available with instruction manuals ---which is it ??
First Product is 220 volts -240 volts AC .
Second product is 110 volts-120 volts AC .
Third product is 90 volts-110 volts AC .
Both power amp and integrated amp are available with instruction manuals ---which is it ??
Perhaps popping the transformer up will reveal a sticker of manufacturer name and maybe even appropriate voltage options. I contacted the company that supplied transformers for Bryston's 3B st and got what I wanted to know that way. Good luck.
The Roksan Kandy --made in England ,sell 3 versions of their integrated amplifier .
First Product is 220 volts -240 volts AC .
Second product is 110 volts-120 volts AC .
Third product is 90 volts-110 volts AC .
Both power amp and integrated amp are available with instruction manuals ---which is it ??
I know the lll has the largest one, and packs best punch (600 VA). Excellent offering there.

If it had two primaries wired in series for 230V and parallel for 115V, there would be four wires, so don't try to connect the white wire. It could be a center tap - what voltage is on it?
Brian
Brian
Brian - from the diagrams I have seen I would have expected four wires as well, probably with the middle two connected to run in series.
I believe it says in the user manual that it can be configured for multiple locations by taking it to a Roksan dealer.
I believe it says in the user manual that it can be configured for multiple locations by taking it to a Roksan dealer.
Well update- I heard from Roksan service and they said
"The wiring as shown from the
Transformer Mains Input is for 230v
i.e. the BROWN cable is connected to
the Switch and the WHITE cable is tied
back.
For 115v the WHITE cable is connected
to the Switch and the BROWN cable is
tied back."
I know typically a fuse change is required, but in this case it seems like there are simply two systems so there wouldn't be a change in amp draw.
"The wiring as shown from the
Transformer Mains Input is for 230v
i.e. the BROWN cable is connected to
the Switch and the WHITE cable is tied
back.
For 115v the WHITE cable is connected
to the Switch and the BROWN cable is
tied back."
I know typically a fuse change is required, but in this case it seems like there are simply two systems so there wouldn't be a change in amp draw.
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This diagram they sent is for the K3, but the wiring pattern is the same so I am assuming they spec the same setup.
Should I unhook the secondaries, check the output using the step-down transformer, then switch the brown and white wires and check on 120v mains before connecting back to the amp?
Should I unhook the secondaries, check the output using the step-down transformer, then switch the brown and white wires and check on 120v mains before connecting back to the amp?
They don't have info on the KA-1 MKIII, just the K3. Which seems strange but actually more than I expected to get.
So I can't be 100% sure. If I test the secondaries using both setups and they are the same I should be good, right?
So I can't be 100% sure. If I test the secondaries using both setups and they are the same I should be good, right?
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Did you try the UK office? Some tech somewhere knows. Surely they should be able to lead you to a solid conclusion if the customer service is at all decent.
I would expect the primary is 0-115-230V, so yeah, disconnect the brown wire, connect the white wire where the brown wire was. Double the fuse rating.
I tried the UK office as well.
Question about doubling fuse though, and this is a generic transformer question. Using this as an opportunity to learn more about transformers and things are making some sense. In the case of a three wire, 230V/115V/0V transformer is it along the lines of the attached schematic?
Rather than a series/parallel, it's basically one 230V winding with a tap in the middle so the 115V tap is only using half the winding? So current wouldn't double?
Question about doubling fuse though, and this is a generic transformer question. Using this as an opportunity to learn more about transformers and things are making some sense. In the case of a three wire, 230V/115V/0V transformer is it along the lines of the attached schematic?
Rather than a series/parallel, it's basically one 230V winding with a tap in the middle so the 115V tap is only using half the winding? So current wouldn't double?
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Nice find Duncan, thanks. Thats already in my favorites saver. When I started I scoured the net in the past. info on them was very scarce for the amps. There was very limited infos on them in general. A lot more of them sold in the UK also. And only a handful in north America. I seen them fs with UK voltage. Nice to know the swap can be performed that easily.
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That is really helpful, thanks!
It shows a four wire configuration for 115v/parallel or 230v series, which makes sense. I only have three wires though- Brown, Blue, and White.
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