So we all are aware that heat is the enemy.
WAF means that I need to make things look as neat and tidy as I can and to that end we bought a piece of furniture from IKEA.
So we have a 3 unit BESTA TV cabinet
BUT after assembly and using if for a while I realise it has very poor design for using as a multi unit cabinet even for our Mid-Fi system and I am going to need to remove all the components and modify it.
It's pretty enough for WAF but it simply doesn't have enough ventilation and it is far too shallow for a couple of the components I have.
I'd like some ideas from people here on ways to tackle this problem and still keep something acceptable to SWMBO.
Here's a link
BESTA TV bench with drawers - black-brown/Hanviken/Stubbarp black-brown clear glass - IKEA
Although ours is an earlier iteration it is similar and the same size. The television in our room is wall hung.
We have two turntables currently sitting on top although one will be going to the shed as soon as I tidy the shed up.
Home theatre amp. DVD Audio/SACD player, old VHS player because some movies are still on VHS and no digital copy exists as yet, Blue ray player Stereo pre-amp, Crossover, Rotel 1070 for mid-bass and an older 200 watt amplifier for bass duties. Plus the monoblocks sit next to the speakers
Quite a bit of heat generated at times
WAF means that I need to make things look as neat and tidy as I can and to that end we bought a piece of furniture from IKEA.
So we have a 3 unit BESTA TV cabinet
BUT after assembly and using if for a while I realise it has very poor design for using as a multi unit cabinet even for our Mid-Fi system and I am going to need to remove all the components and modify it.
It's pretty enough for WAF but it simply doesn't have enough ventilation and it is far too shallow for a couple of the components I have.
I'd like some ideas from people here on ways to tackle this problem and still keep something acceptable to SWMBO.
Here's a link
BESTA TV bench with drawers - black-brown/Hanviken/Stubbarp black-brown clear glass - IKEA
Although ours is an earlier iteration it is similar and the same size. The television in our room is wall hung.
We have two turntables currently sitting on top although one will be going to the shed as soon as I tidy the shed up.
Home theatre amp. DVD Audio/SACD player, old VHS player because some movies are still on VHS and no digital copy exists as yet, Blue ray player Stereo pre-amp, Crossover, Rotel 1070 for mid-bass and an older 200 watt amplifier for bass duties. Plus the monoblocks sit next to the speakers
Quite a bit of heat generated at times
There are quiet "hi-fi" cooling fans. Removing the back panel(s) would go a long way,
but you'd need cross bars to replace them for stability. Or cut openings in the back
panels for the fans.
but you'd need cross bars to replace them for stability. Or cut openings in the back
panels for the fans.
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Could you take the back off? I have an IKEA sliding glass doors type cabinet on which I left off the rear cardboard shear panel, and put in corner braces instead.
A simple slot of about an inch high, a few inches wide is all you need on the rear panel at each heat-producing component.
natural convection takes care of the rest, no need for fans.
natural convection takes care of the rest, no need for fans.
Could you take the back off? I have an IKEA sliding glass doors type cabinet on which I left off the rear cardboard shear panel, and put in corner braces instead.
What size corner brackets did you use?
I was going to buy some good plywood and use that in place of the 2mm paperboard, smaller panels naturally
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rayma those are cheap enough around here but the cabinet itself does seem to the paper honeycomb and not chipboard like most IKEA stuff, still the edges are probably strong enough to hold screws
I thought Andersonix might have used Euro bracket style like these.
Carinya 200 x 200 x 25 x 2mm Silver Euro Bracket | Bunnings Warehouse
I thought Andersonix might have used Euro bracket style like these.
Carinya 200 x 200 x 25 x 2mm Silver Euro Bracket | Bunnings Warehouse
I have a somewhat similar "problem"...we have one of those old style CRT TV "stands", but the old CRTs' are long gone. So here we have a giant TV thing, 900mm wide, 560mm deep & 750mm tall...and my tuner, pre, amp is the standard 19 inches.440mm wide. So the four-inch deep flat-screen winds up on the cheap factory pedestal, with a foot and a half still leftover??
Even with the obligatory 'cable box' & the internet box...I have lots of wasted space, volume within.
I want to mount the TV on the wall & get a Shelf rack for my gear...unfortunately most of these racks don't have much adjustability for the height of each component..
I tire of my gear hidden behind those 1980s' smoked glass doors...and the heat that wafts out all closed up like that.
PIX example.
---------------------------------------------------------------------Rick.........
Even with the obligatory 'cable box' & the internet box...I have lots of wasted space, volume within.
I want to mount the TV on the wall & get a Shelf rack for my gear...unfortunately most of these racks don't have much adjustability for the height of each component..
I tire of my gear hidden behind those 1980s' smoked glass doors...and the heat that wafts out all closed up like that.
PIX example.
---------------------------------------------------------------------Rick.........
Attachments
... I want to mount the TV on the wall & get a Shelf rack for my gear...unfortunately most of these racks don't have much adjustability for the height of each component..
I tire of my gear hidden behind those 1980s' smoked glass doors...and the heat that wafts out all closed up like that.
...
DIY rack option here: The TNT FleXy Table
and FAQ here: The TNT FleXy Table: FAQ
Remove all the back panel except for the centre section and cut a window in it. This remains an ample brace for the cabinet so you don't need corner braces.
Most bought units do not allow for cable management at the back and the one I built almost 20 years ago has a 100mm space at the back for cables and power boards with the top and sides hiding it from view. It's 600mm deep as it was CRT TV days back then.
I built one like the TNT rack for my small 230mm Galaxy case components.
Most bought units do not allow for cable management at the back and the one I built almost 20 years ago has a 100mm space at the back for cables and power boards with the top and sides hiding it from view. It's 600mm deep as it was CRT TV days back then.
I built one like the TNT rack for my small 230mm Galaxy case components.
Attachments
The corner braces I used are something similar to these, nothing fancy.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/angles-braces-and-brackets/braces/5291752
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/angles-braces-and-brackets/braces/5291752
Been a while but I blame Covid.
I'm taking stuff off this cabinet in the next few days, and then starting on doing the back board thing.
But I have a WAF problem and I need to put the big Kenwood monoblocks inside the IKEA unit.
I have a BIG problem there as the combined weight is a bit higher than the maximum 20kg load of the IKEA shelf and also the units are 40mm deeper than the factory shelf.
I'm thinking of going to Bunnings and buying a steel pegboard unit, cutting it to size and supporting the sides with some strong angle.
I'm worried about the heat that these old amps develop and thinking that the perforations would help with airflow a bit
I'm taking stuff off this cabinet in the next few days, and then starting on doing the back board thing.
But I have a WAF problem and I need to put the big Kenwood monoblocks inside the IKEA unit.
I have a BIG problem there as the combined weight is a bit higher than the maximum 20kg load of the IKEA shelf and also the units are 40mm deeper than the factory shelf.
I'm thinking of going to Bunnings and buying a steel pegboard unit, cutting it to size and supporting the sides with some strong angle.
I'm worried about the heat that these old amps develop and thinking that the perforations would help with airflow a bit
Just cut the rear out in the centre.
Added 75mm brackets in the corners.
Put a layer of 12mm ply over the existing shelf with lots of ventilation.
Added 75mm brackets in the corners.
Put a layer of 12mm ply over the existing shelf with lots of ventilation.
I find the ratings for Ikea weights to be very conservative. I have a glass shelf unit rated for 15kg/shelf. They hold more than 4 times that without issue. Sure, if your kid tried to knock it over, it would collapse, but as long as the centre of gravity is good, so is the shelf.
Perhaps but I wasn't prepared to take that chance. Especially as the combined weight of the monoblocks is over the stated maximum weight of 20 kilos.
The only Ikea storage unit I ever bought (Malm chests) would barely take the weight of a few pairs of socks and all drawers had to be comprehensively reinforced so they could be used at all.I find the ratings for Ikea weights to be very conservative.
True, but that's just a cardboard bottom basically, not really the same as a cabinet/shelving unit, right?
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