Got myself a project pile of T10001BD amps to be resurrected.
Thank you guys for all this wonderful info!
I managed to get one going from scrounged parts, which was cool, haven't fixed amps in a long time.
I have schematics for most of them, except the older 2005 models.
I was wondering if anyone one knew the part numbers to the switches SW100, SW101, and SW102?
Figured out the 4 gang frequency pot RV101 replacement, Bourn #PTD904-1015P-B203.
All these boards seem to have malfunctioning pots and switches, along with some have let the magic smoke out. Looks like the circuit board needs support in that area to keep from vibrating so badly. Repair first, then modify...
Thanks for your tjme
Thank you guys for all this wonderful info!
I managed to get one going from scrounged parts, which was cool, haven't fixed amps in a long time.
I have schematics for most of them, except the older 2005 models.
I was wondering if anyone one knew the part numbers to the switches SW100, SW101, and SW102?
Figured out the 4 gang frequency pot RV101 replacement, Bourn #PTD904-1015P-B203.
All these boards seem to have malfunctioning pots and switches, along with some have let the magic smoke out. Looks like the circuit board needs support in that area to keep from vibrating so badly. Repair first, then modify...
Thanks for your tjme
Attachments
The originals were Vimex.
Slave/Master/Single is Vimex SK-43D05
Phase and sub sonic are Vimex SK-22D01
You might find these also in E-Switch EG series like EG2211 and EG4311.
Slave/Master/Single is Vimex SK-43D05
Phase and sub sonic are Vimex SK-22D01
You might find these also in E-Switch EG series like EG2211 and EG4311.
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There are a lot of amps that need more support but I've never found that to be true on these amps. Generally, when a board has poor support, the legs on the heatsink-mounted semiconductors break. From my experience, the pots and switches on these amps fail from contamination or corrosion. Many can be cleaned.
I have a junked p1000x2bd if you are in need of the switches i can see if they are the same. Otherwise I'm fairly confident on my workbench computer I have the part numbers for t
he most common switches. I can certainly get those for you in a bit.Thank you for the info perry babin, I will try to clean the switches. Ive never had luck cleaning pots, but will give it a go.
Definitely two of the amps have fault at frequency pot, works until you hit the dead spot on the pot, then kicks my 10a power supply, if were hooked to battery, I feel woulda toasted something.
4 other amps have sketchy values when moving the pots, but they let out the smoke long ago.
I just notice that the one I have in my car, the circuit board in that area vibrates Alot. I only run 2 Sundown Sa10 v2 at 2 ohm and the amp is not bolted to the sub box(bolted it to the left rear strut tower and brace).
Thank you danfs722, I will be ordering parts tomorrow or the next. I have 12 - jl500/1 amps to tear down also, to get a full parts list together.
Definitely two of the amps have fault at frequency pot, works until you hit the dead spot on the pot, then kicks my 10a power supply, if were hooked to battery, I feel woulda toasted something.
4 other amps have sketchy values when moving the pots, but they let out the smoke long ago.
I just notice that the one I have in my car, the circuit board in that area vibrates Alot. I only run 2 Sundown Sa10 v2 at 2 ohm and the amp is not bolted to the sub box(bolted it to the left rear strut tower and brace).
Thank you danfs722, I will be ordering parts tomorrow or the next. I have 12 - jl500/1 amps to tear down also, to get a full parts list together.
652-PTD9042015KB503 is the 4 gang 50K 12 pin pot
652-PTD9042015KC104 is 4 gang 100K 12 pin pot
Obviously you found the 20k.
Took me forever to find these as well. Now to track down a source for non polar/bi polar caps 250v.
as for the switches, I do not have them saved and I am unsure exactly what you are looking for but 2319 looks to be the common DP3T however I dont see the mirrored version where the gap is favoring the right.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/140/EG-345873.pdf
652-PTD9042015KC104 is 4 gang 100K 12 pin pot
Obviously you found the 20k.
Took me forever to find these as well. Now to track down a source for non polar/bi polar caps 250v.
as for the switches, I do not have them saved and I am unsure exactly what you are looking for but 2319 looks to be the common DP3T however I dont see the mirrored version where the gap is favoring the right.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/140/EG-345873.pdf
In a pinch, you can disassemble some switches, flip the housing and actuator and make a mirror image part.
danfs722, thank you for that. Yes, those 250v caps are getting hard to find.
seankane suggested the EG2211,EG4311 and had the original numbers for them(did a quick search, seam to need to buy those in large qty, but I could be wrong). I will dig a little more when I get a few of these up and running.
Perry Babin, great idea! That will work on the sub sonic and phase switches. The single/master/slave switch uses both sides. When I clean the switches, I wil flip around the sub sonic and phase switches, reassemble them. Going to just cleaning the single/master/slave switches and test their operation, if still faulty, those will be replaced with alternate.
seankane suggested the EG2211,EG4311 and had the original numbers for them(did a quick search, seam to need to buy those in large qty, but I could be wrong). I will dig a little more when I get a few of these up and running.
Perry Babin, great idea! That will work on the sub sonic and phase switches. The single/master/slave switch uses both sides. When I clean the switches, I wil flip around the sub sonic and phase switches, reassemble them. Going to just cleaning the single/master/slave switches and test their operation, if still faulty, those will be replaced with alternate.
I found these through Digikey for the .0068uf caps. Digikey Part #1928-1519-ND. Manufacturer is Wima their part #MKP2G016801B00KSSD. 10% 6800pf 200vac 400vdc film capacitor.
Ordered most of the parts I need for fixing 10 of the t1000's. Starting fresh, replacing all power and output fets, 4700uf caps, 330uf caps, .0068uf caps near the fets, most of the drive transistors, some drivers, and bad resistors.
These amps have all been road hard and put away hot. All worked on before. Found two destroyed mesh boards from previous repair fail.
I have a pile of jl500 amps, mtx amps, and a t2500bd to work through also, save those for another thread or two.
So there will be times when I'm busy, but will post my progress and issues I find through this adventure.
Ordered most of the parts I need for fixing 10 of the t1000's. Starting fresh, replacing all power and output fets, 4700uf caps, 330uf caps, .0068uf caps near the fets, most of the drive transistors, some drivers, and bad resistors.
These amps have all been road hard and put away hot. All worked on before. Found two destroyed mesh boards from previous repair fail.
I have a pile of jl500 amps, mtx amps, and a t2500bd to work through also, save those for another thread or two.
So there will be times when I'm busy, but will post my progress and issues I find through this adventure.
If you start needing help with a specific amp, start a new thread for it or any other amp. Limiting the threads to a single repair makes them far more useful to those who find the threads from a search for a particular problem.
Ok Perry I will do that. The troublesome ones I will start new threads.
Side note and pictures on the mesh-boards and mosfets. I use ultrafets in some of my light drivers, so this is what I do for pre-tinning and and re-sweating down the fets to their boards.
Find an old 120mm or similar metal fan grill, bend one mounting tab 90 degrees towards the bottom of grill so you can clamp it with a vise or grippers so it sits nice and level.
Lay out your fets or boards with pre-tinned fets on the grill for tinning or re-sweating to boards.
Now you can use an hot air-gun or small butane torch on them from underneath easily.
Side note and pictures on the mesh-boards and mosfets. I use ultrafets in some of my light drivers, so this is what I do for pre-tinning and and re-sweating down the fets to their boards.
Find an old 120mm or similar metal fan grill, bend one mounting tab 90 degrees towards the bottom of grill so you can clamp it with a vise or grippers so it sits nice and level.
Lay out your fets or boards with pre-tinned fets on the grill for tinning or re-sweating to boards.
Now you can use an hot air-gun or small butane torch on them from underneath easily.
