Currently I have 2x 210mm holes in my floor under my front seats in my car, made originally for satori wo24p-4 woofers, that have since been changed to a single ten inch subwoofer with a inverted surround so the surround doesn’t hit the metalwork, now the subwoofer is getting low enough (the satoris weren’t ideal for this, perhaps a bit limited on xmax for the displacement needed at low freqs)
However the satoris were a very lice low midbass driver, they were more articulate at low freqs vs the current 10” hybrid audio clarus subwoofer I have under the passenger seat, what I need is something somewhere between the two drivers, more xmax than a satori with a higher Q ideally, and a bit more finesse than the clarus 10” subwoofer
Also when removing the clarus I have noticed condensation on the cone (they are inverted), so I am now at a point when I’m considering refitting the satori as midbass is more important than sub bass for competition
I am only playing the clarus upto a 150ish he crossover but it’s sound is a little thick, now it’s cone is made of polypropylene and so not bothered by the moisture whatsoever
I am curious if anyone had some suggestions for a nice compromise between the two drivers
Metal/plastic/man made cones are all welcome (just not paper), QTS between 0.5-0.9 considered, low fs ideally in the 30’s or below, and 8-10”, but must have decent xmax for the lowest freqs, thinking maybe if someone has done open baffle subwoofers or similar, depth can be anywhere upto 150mm and no larger diameter than 290mm ideally
Suggestions welcome
Or alternatively a method of waterproofing the satori as they were almost perfect bar the very lowest notes, but I can always make a second preset with some boot sub woofers and use the satori purely for midbass dutys for ‘excitable’ listening levels
However the satoris were a very lice low midbass driver, they were more articulate at low freqs vs the current 10” hybrid audio clarus subwoofer I have under the passenger seat, what I need is something somewhere between the two drivers, more xmax than a satori with a higher Q ideally, and a bit more finesse than the clarus 10” subwoofer
Also when removing the clarus I have noticed condensation on the cone (they are inverted), so I am now at a point when I’m considering refitting the satori as midbass is more important than sub bass for competition
I am only playing the clarus upto a 150ish he crossover but it’s sound is a little thick, now it’s cone is made of polypropylene and so not bothered by the moisture whatsoever
I am curious if anyone had some suggestions for a nice compromise between the two drivers
Metal/plastic/man made cones are all welcome (just not paper), QTS between 0.5-0.9 considered, low fs ideally in the 30’s or below, and 8-10”, but must have decent xmax for the lowest freqs, thinking maybe if someone has done open baffle subwoofers or similar, depth can be anywhere upto 150mm and no larger diameter than 290mm ideally
Suggestions welcome
Or alternatively a method of waterproofing the satori as they were almost perfect bar the very lowest notes, but I can always make a second preset with some boot sub woofers and use the satori purely for midbass dutys for ‘excitable’ listening levels
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It has 30 bands of dsp available and all pass filters, how does use an eq help me find a compromise driver?
Sorry I thought this was a good place to ask about actual drivers themselves and not get silly responses like that... eq doesn’t change the waterproof property’s of a cone, or how good it is at making midbass or sub bass, I have two drivers, one does something well and not the other, the other does the opposite, I am after an in between
Sorry I thought this was a good place to ask about actual drivers themselves and not get silly responses like that... eq doesn’t change the waterproof property’s of a cone, or how good it is at making midbass or sub bass, I have two drivers, one does something well and not the other, the other does the opposite, I am after an in between
check out PSSound on youtube. hes done a few Ib installs and had the drivers firing out of the vehicle.
Infinite baffle / free-air sub install in car - YouTube
Ive seen a number of different methods to prevent drivers being destroyed by moisture. there is hydrophobic cloth and foam.
Infinite baffle / free-air sub install in car - YouTube
Ive seen a number of different methods to prevent drivers being destroyed by moisture. there is hydrophobic cloth and foam.
I could just ring him, I helped build and tune some of the cars in his videos, but again I am asking here as I have exhausted all conventional avenues
I also have hydrophobic foam under the drivers, however condensation doesn’t get stopped by it, and it would then destroy the paper cones of the satori drivers which would make me very sad (although I do wonder if the condensation would form on a paper cone not being a cold surface like a plastic cone) so a waterproofing/damp resistance method for the paper cone would also be good if anyone has one that won’t add too much weight to the drivers? Any clues guys, I am asking for a bit of a special driver I realise, but if it was an off the shelf car audio driver I would have found it already...
I also have hydrophobic foam under the drivers, however condensation doesn’t get stopped by it, and it would then destroy the paper cones of the satori drivers which would make me very sad (although I do wonder if the condensation would form on a paper cone not being a cold surface like a plastic cone) so a waterproofing/damp resistance method for the paper cone would also be good if anyone has one that won’t add too much weight to the drivers? Any clues guys, I am asking for a bit of a special driver I realise, but if it was an off the shelf car audio driver I would have found it already...
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The problem of 'thick sound' points either to an issue in the frequency response or a large harmonic distortion.
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Let’s change thick to not articulate, is that better, i class not being articulate as sounding heavy or thick! A 200g cone won’t play midbass like a 40g satori cone, but the weather protection isn’t so good for the satori, and the textreme isn’t in budget, so any suggestions for drivers to try under 300 euros a pair?
Higher qts say 0.5-0.8, mms between 40-80g, and low inductance with copper or alumininum shorting rings in the motor and have a relatively waterproof cone and a dustcap so no Dayton rs225 with a phase plug centre
Higher qts say 0.5-0.8, mms between 40-80g, and low inductance with copper or alumininum shorting rings in the motor and have a relatively waterproof cone and a dustcap so no Dayton rs225 with a phase plug centre
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3M Scotchgard Water and Sunshield works well, is easy to spray on, available most everywhere, and does not change the cone's appearance or weight/sound much at all.
I used to use a similar product on hundreds of cones subject to extreme temperature, humidity swings and rain splash, kept the cones from "going soft".
Another option is "The Wet Look™" high gloss polymer, formulated especially for the speaker industry.
Wet Look 4 oz. Black
Several speaker re-coners I know have given the "Wet Look™" good reviews.
It used to be available clear, seems to only be black now.
Art
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