Hi, would anyone know which company supplies the best replacement bulbs for the meter displays on this amp?
I believe they're 14V, 0.8A 'Stanley' lamps...?
I believe they're 14V, 0.8A 'Stanley' lamps...?
14V @0.8A sounds very very high wattage. 0.08A would be more likely.
Just looking... and the service manual shows a 1 amp fuse feeding 8 parallel bulbs... no clue to the physical outline though.
Edit... so quite likely 0.08 or 80 milliamp bulbs.
Just looking... and the service manual shows a 1 amp fuse feeding 8 parallel bulbs... no clue to the physical outline though.
Edit... so quite likely 0.08 or 80 milliamp bulbs.
And for fuses on this model, can one use 4 Amp 'F' rather than 4 Amp 'T' glass fuses?
No, T means time delay or anti surge, F is fast blow.
Fuse Speed Explained
If fuses have blown there is probably some fault issue present.
Thanks.
The fuses currently in it, from previous owner, are 'F' and haven't blown. Amp is sounding beautiful. Bias is dead on 10mV both channels. DC offset is 2.3mV on one channel, but the other one is flickering between 28mV an 36mV. Any clue as to what the , hopefully, minor culprit might be?
The fuses currently in it, from previous owner, are 'F' and haven't blown. Amp is sounding beautiful. Bias is dead on 10mV both channels. DC offset is 2.3mV on one channel, but the other one is flickering between 28mV an 36mV. Any clue as to what the , hopefully, minor culprit might be?
I wouldn't like to guess... it could be anything from a dry joint through to a thermally defective semiconductor or a failing resistor. Leaky ceramic type caps can cause issues too.
I would begin by seeing if there is a DC offset preset and whether or not is was intermittent/noisy. See if the offset changes as you tap around the board. Look for parts and transistors that run hot... these are always suspects.
Try freezer spray very sparingly on suspect parts. Drip it on them, don't blast a whole area. Inverted cans of air duster are a good cheap freezer substitute.
Maybe the offset suddenly goes wild and that is what has popped the fuses, and someone has put fast blow in to try and save any damage occurring. It needs sorting before it destroys either your speakers or itself.
An image search of Yamaha 2200 bulbs brings lots of hits for the lamps. They will be 80 milliamp, not 0.8A. Should be available from component suppliers as well as they look a standard sort of outline.
I'll look in tomorrow 🙂
I would begin by seeing if there is a DC offset preset and whether or not is was intermittent/noisy. See if the offset changes as you tap around the board. Look for parts and transistors that run hot... these are always suspects.
Try freezer spray very sparingly on suspect parts. Drip it on them, don't blast a whole area. Inverted cans of air duster are a good cheap freezer substitute.
Maybe the offset suddenly goes wild and that is what has popped the fuses, and someone has put fast blow in to try and save any damage occurring. It needs sorting before it destroys either your speakers or itself.
An image search of Yamaha 2200 bulbs brings lots of hits for the lamps. They will be 80 milliamp, not 0.8A. Should be available from component suppliers as well as they look a standard sort of outline.
I'll look in tomorrow 🙂
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