Never built a full-range speaker before. But I have to say that this sounds really good. Deep bass and particularly detailed highs for this speaker size. Very satisfied with the result!
Greetzzz Hondasnl
Greetzzz Hondasnl
Attachments
Hi Hondasnl,
Fantastic build! They look a like big Tannoy speakers.
You said that you never build Full-range before, may I ask what are those Fostex FE208EZ then?
Fantastic build! They look a like big Tannoy speakers.
You said that you never build Full-range before, may I ask what are those Fostex FE208EZ then?
Yes you are correct.
I built the Dual-208s almost at the same time.
I'll put them in a separate thread later.
I built the Dual-208s almost at the same time.
I'll put them in a separate thread later.
I'm curious as to how you might like 208 in a Karlson type. 206 is a good K driver. A cabinet could be as little as about 32 liter external volume. might be fun.
here's a K built over a decade ago by a friend for 208 Sigma. It had to be rebuilt as 12mm plywood wasn't rigid enough.
206 plays well in a K12.
I don't know if the high aspect helps or not.
Moray James made K for Fostex with a quarter wave T-line rather than reflex.
206 has a perfect natural balance for Karlson work. I don't know about 208ez.
Your AN15 alnico build is gorgeous.
here's a K built over a decade ago by a friend for 208 Sigma. It had to be rebuilt as 12mm plywood wasn't rigid enough.
206 plays well in a K12.
I don't know if the high aspect helps or not.
Moray James made K for Fostex with a quarter wave T-line rather than reflex.
206 has a perfect natural balance for Karlson work. I don't know about 208ez.
Your AN15 alnico build is gorgeous.
Last edited:
Fronts
When I'm not listening to the speakers or just playing background music or for protection etc. I like to make some fronts for the beasts.
The color of the fabric matches the interior well.
When I'm not listening to the speakers or just playing background music or for protection etc. I like to make some fronts for the beasts.
The color of the fabric matches the interior well.
Attachments
I've seen them on marktplaats.
Real beauties.
Like the ICM's too, those are awesome.
One wanders..what would be next after something like that.
Great work.
Pleasure.
No, single duct 4in diameter (roughly 100mm -actually just under 102mm). You can use mutiples if you like; the duct length will start to increase significantly however to maintain the same tuning. Basic rule of vented boxes: for a given volume and tuning frequency, the larger the (total) vent area, the longer the vent / vents need to be.
I think Commomsense Audio has a different theory for the vent holes (instead of pipe vents) in the baffle they use in their designs. In any case, it works well.
Sort of. David at Commonsense, as I recall, basically keys off a couple of the traditional bass reflex formulas that take little account of the actual driver characteristics -that's why a wide variety of AN units with totally different specs. / load requirements ended up getting dropped into boxes that were originally desgined (using that approach) for Lowthers. I haven't been on their site for some time but for years it had so many factual innacuracies and misleading statements it was difficult to take seriously. I should stress, I'm not making any reflection on the drivers nor yet traditional vented box design (which I sometimes use myself). And in certain instances CSA's worked out nicely when it happened to suit the driver -I remember checking a few a long time ago & ran across a couple that ended up with a nice alignment balance. But their results could be a trifle hit & miss because that wasn't always the case, so I wouldn't necessarily place too much reliance on their specific approach to 'theory', taking it in a broad sense.
If you're interested in some of the background to traditional BR design, in one popular approach the cabinets volume would key off the physical driver size. For maximum acoustic efficiency (which was the name of the game at the time) the total vent area Av = Sd. You then adjusted Fb by altering the box volume by ratio to the original: increase by 4x you drop Fb by 1 octave for example; reduce by 4x and you raise Fb by 1 octave. If you needed to adapt the box volume to some other size, you could also do it by ratio to these dimensions, adjusting the vent area in proportion to maintain tuning. You can also alter tuning by changing the vent area, with the maximum permissible always being set by Sd. Like the box, if you reduce vent area 4x, you lower Fb by roughly 1 octave, and so on. It can work well -providing the driver characteristics (including the driving amplifier) suit this approach.
If you're interested in some of the background to traditional BR design, in one popular approach the cabinets volume would key off the physical driver size. For maximum acoustic efficiency (which was the name of the game at the time) the total vent area Av = Sd. You then adjusted Fb by altering the box volume by ratio to the original: increase by 4x you drop Fb by 1 octave for example; reduce by 4x and you raise Fb by 1 octave. If you needed to adapt the box volume to some other size, you could also do it by ratio to these dimensions, adjusting the vent area in proportion to maintain tuning. You can also alter tuning by changing the vent area, with the maximum permissible always being set by Sd. Like the box, if you reduce vent area 4x, you lower Fb by roughly 1 octave, and so on. It can work well -providing the driver characteristics (including the driving amplifier) suit this approach.
Last edited: