Hello everyone,
I'm in the process of selecting and building a set of high-end speakers. So far, I have two probable choices – Troels Gravelsen's The-Loudspeaker-III, or his Faital 3-Way Classic.
I've refrained from planning on an amp in advance as I want it to be custom tailored to the speakers I'll end up building. Which probably will be one of the two mentioned above. As I'm now finishing an approximate budget for building my new system, I'd like to have some advices regarding amp choices.
The-Loudspeaker-III has an active subwoofer, powered by a Hypex Fusion FA251, while the mid-woofer and tweeter are passive. Does it mean I'll need to bi-amp the speakers? The website states 'the Hypex is fed from the crossover, so no need for a line signal, does this mean no bi-amping? Sorry if it's a stupid question, you never know until you ask.
The Faital 3-Way has its subwoofer in a separate enclosure, so it'll need bi-amping. It's fully passive.
Both speakers are very efficient, only requiring 15watts per channels.
I've made my own research but I'm still unsure I'll be making the right choice without asking.
I'm looking for a good, preferably unexpensive (to start off), way to properly power these speakers with the clean signal they deserve.
I'm in the process of selecting and building a set of high-end speakers. So far, I have two probable choices – Troels Gravelsen's The-Loudspeaker-III, or his Faital 3-Way Classic.
I've refrained from planning on an amp in advance as I want it to be custom tailored to the speakers I'll end up building. Which probably will be one of the two mentioned above. As I'm now finishing an approximate budget for building my new system, I'd like to have some advices regarding amp choices.
The-Loudspeaker-III has an active subwoofer, powered by a Hypex Fusion FA251, while the mid-woofer and tweeter are passive. Does it mean I'll need to bi-amp the speakers? The website states 'the Hypex is fed from the crossover, so no need for a line signal, does this mean no bi-amping? Sorry if it's a stupid question, you never know until you ask.
The Faital 3-Way has its subwoofer in a separate enclosure, so it'll need bi-amping. It's fully passive.
Both speakers are very efficient, only requiring 15watts per channels.
I've made my own research but I'm still unsure I'll be making the right choice without asking.
I'm looking for a good, preferably unexpensive (to start off), way to properly power these speakers with the clean signal they deserve.
Sorry to shamefully bump this thread.
I'd just like an answer to this question:
"The-Loudspeaker-III has an active subwoofer, powered by a Hypex Fusion FA251, while the mid-woofer and tweeter are passive. Does it mean I'll need to bi-amp the speakers? The website states 'the Hypex is fed from the crossover, so no need for a line signal, does this mean no bi-amping? Sorry if it's a stupid question, you never know until you ask."
I'd just like an answer to this question:
"The-Loudspeaker-III has an active subwoofer, powered by a Hypex Fusion FA251, while the mid-woofer and tweeter are passive. Does it mean I'll need to bi-amp the speakers? The website states 'the Hypex is fed from the crossover, so no need for a line signal, does this mean no bi-amping? Sorry if it's a stupid question, you never know until you ask."
The images show a wire pair connecting the speaker input (from your amp) to the Hypex input. So one positive and one negative speaker connection is all that is needed. No bi amp /bi wire needed.
Great news! Means I can keep things simple with 'just an amp'.
If anyone has any recommendations of a good solid state amp that can feed 15W per channel, that'd be very welcome!
Is it better to buy an amp that's a little more powerful?
I'd like something that could really pump some details into these beauties I'm about to build.
Given the modest power requirements I would think a fairly simple class A amp like a JLH or a Pass design might be a good fit.
No, you don't need additional amplification with passive crossovers. That would make it an active crossover. It just means the subwoofer input signal is taken from the main amplifier speaker cable at the input to the passive crossover network, inside the box. This is like many free-standing subwoofers that have dual inputs - either from a line level output of the preamplifier or adapted from the main speaker cables as here.
In other words, the loudspeaker is a hybrid system with its own low-pass filter and power amplifier for the bass driver and a passive crossover network dividing the output of the main power amplifier in the the standard way - to the midrange and tweeter drivers, as you've already described in some detail.
An F5 or F6 would be a good DIY choice for the wattage you want. Lots of information here about both. F6 kits are in the store currently.