Hi,
WHat would ou advice as an electrical low pass cut-off for this driver, please ?
Mine is the NBAC but the NAC is similar. The H5 between around 1k and 2 k hz is worying me. My Due to the mid I wanted a 550 to 700 hz LP 6DB electrical, but I surmise the slope not to be stiff enough ? LR12 electrical instead perhaps, where according to you ?
Many thanks for your "poll" 🙂
The distortion measurment is from HifiCompass, I attached the 5.2V capture.
The filter will be passive with a zobel to flat the impedance.
WHat would ou advice as an electrical low pass cut-off for this driver, please ?
Mine is the NBAC but the NAC is similar. The H5 between around 1k and 2 k hz is worying me. My Due to the mid I wanted a 550 to 700 hz LP 6DB electrical, but I surmise the slope not to be stiff enough ? LR12 electrical instead perhaps, where according to you ?
Many thanks for your "poll" 🙂
The distortion measurment is from HifiCompass, I attached the 5.2V capture.
The filter will be passive with a zobel to flat the impedance.
Attachments
Hi Jim, yes a typo I can not correct, the picture is from the brother SB23-NAC, and it's the SB23 black woke I have in the hand 🙂 (wanted to purchase the ceramic but the better Le of the NBAC was the trigger over the NAC and CAC... perhaps an error, I will never know though !)
Best to simulate and see what kind of issues can one expect in the x/o region. Optimally, away from break-up. Planning to design a 2 way, 3 way?
Of course I will measure soon and simulate in the cabinet (36 L) but I hoped the advice of the experts, simulations don't give experience I haven't !
3 ways (or two ways) : mid is 10F/8424G00-8, tweeter if I miss the treble after toeing the cabinet would probably be a little 3.5 cm round case (ring dome + bullet) from Peereless very close to the mid (within half wave length c to c at 3k hz) . But that is an other story not for this thread yet.
Edit : forgot this it has an importance on the cone : sealed, not the best scenario I assume as the cone moves twice a vented and it's certainly doesn't help, though most of the break-ups seems also from the motor as the disto behavior is close with the paper SB3NRX on H5 (QTC simulated is around 7.8 so good enough, maybe an aperiodic will be tried as the back baffle will be removable, but I'm more on a 12db slope towards the low end as there is a single SB23 per cabinet... with a little help from my friends room gain I hope and close walls)
No intuition from your experiences at seing the graph about the slope I should go with or at least you choose for yurself here ?
3 ways (or two ways) : mid is 10F/8424G00-8, tweeter if I miss the treble after toeing the cabinet would probably be a little 3.5 cm round case (ring dome + bullet) from Peereless very close to the mid (within half wave length c to c at 3k hz) . But that is an other story not for this thread yet.
Edit : forgot this it has an importance on the cone : sealed, not the best scenario I assume as the cone moves twice a vented and it's certainly doesn't help, though most of the break-ups seems also from the motor as the disto behavior is close with the paper SB3NRX on H5 (QTC simulated is around 7.8 so good enough, maybe an aperiodic will be tried as the back baffle will be removable, but I'm more on a 12db slope towards the low end as there is a single SB23 per cabinet... with a little help from my friends room gain I hope and close walls)
No intuition from your experiences at seing the graph about the slope I should go with or at least you choose for yurself here ?
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Approximately 400-500 Hz.
edit: when I find extra time, perhaps I'll work out a simple simulation/filter based on your units.
edit2: usually steeper slopes are better, depending on how much break-up there is to be filtered off.
edit: when I find extra time, perhaps I'll work out a simple simulation/filter based on your units.
edit2: usually steeper slopes are better, depending on how much break-up there is to be filtered off.
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Thanks Lojzek,
Please don't !
This speaker is for learning purpose and I will work with sim and Vituix I dunno and Xsim and will probably do many errors, but you learn from your errors
I wanted with my question to avoid the biggest issues as the bad cone break-ups of hard cone and the motor unit is not as fine as the little SB17 on the disto behavior at iso cone material. Sims don't choose for you if you miss how to read them, hence the topic.
As it's a first building, my intuition just based on the reads from many years is it should be stiffer indeed but I don't know how-much in real world.
I saw T Gravsen chose a LR1 on the SB23NRX on his SB 3 Ways classic : H5 is close from the aluminium serie, just a little less with the paper around 1/2 k hz. And as high as 600/700 iirc for the cut-off he chose. I don't mind the H3 as they ARE there anyway... but my basic understanding is the H5 and their harmonics are very unconfortable, though I don't know at what level! I asked about that elswhere and the H5 excepted from experts or experienced fellows is often as low as -70 db or 80 db below the main.
Don't want too much going above 12db slope : passive parts cost, timing issues harder to solve for a beginner, though maybe I'll have to with a 1K FS tweeter crossed at 3k, but I step by step.
I could notch the first H5 to avoid them to raise, but I'm not confortable to add a notch at around 200//300 hz where it beginns according HifiCompass measurments : it's so close from the low pass and change so much the impedance (though I chose 8 ohms to be cooler on the impedance floor thinghy and size of coils) I'm afraid to touch all the things I am not able to rule : group delay, phase behavior of the LP-HP overlapping and so on...
Passive is harder due to the cost for experiments...
Please don't !
This speaker is for learning purpose and I will work with sim and Vituix I dunno and Xsim and will probably do many errors, but you learn from your errors
I wanted with my question to avoid the biggest issues as the bad cone break-ups of hard cone and the motor unit is not as fine as the little SB17 on the disto behavior at iso cone material. Sims don't choose for you if you miss how to read them, hence the topic.
As it's a first building, my intuition just based on the reads from many years is it should be stiffer indeed but I don't know how-much in real world.
I saw T Gravsen chose a LR1 on the SB23NRX on his SB 3 Ways classic : H5 is close from the aluminium serie, just a little less with the paper around 1/2 k hz. And as high as 600/700 iirc for the cut-off he chose. I don't mind the H3 as they ARE there anyway... but my basic understanding is the H5 and their harmonics are very unconfortable, though I don't know at what level! I asked about that elswhere and the H5 excepted from experts or experienced fellows is often as low as -70 db or 80 db below the main.
Don't want too much going above 12db slope : passive parts cost, timing issues harder to solve for a beginner, though maybe I'll have to with a 1K FS tweeter crossed at 3k, but I step by step.
I could notch the first H5 to avoid them to raise, but I'm not confortable to add a notch at around 200//300 hz where it beginns according HifiCompass measurments : it's so close from the low pass and change so much the impedance (though I chose 8 ohms to be cooler on the impedance floor thinghy and size of coils) I'm afraid to touch all the things I am not able to rule : group delay, phase behavior of the LP-HP overlapping and so on...
Passive is harder due to the cost for experiments...
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I have heard the smaller models. They don't have annoying break ups. I suppose your would be the same .
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The smaller models have way less odd HD levels cause their better motor. And they break-ups higher in frequency.
... Not too much sucess with my thread...
No rapid opinions on the topic please ? Is that such a bad idea or cone break-ups don't matter here in the measurements given cause low enough ?
I really hesitate to cut first order as often seen with the bass unit, should one not "agonize" here on the idea of a LR12 low pass ?
Ok aluminium bass are risky but after all Revel with the F208 uses aluminium, ceramic galvanized, cones with sucess in the low end ! Any idea of their cut-off , I don't remember Stereophile coments about that...
No rapid opinions on the topic please ? Is that such a bad idea or cone break-ups don't matter here in the measurements given cause low enough ?
I really hesitate to cut first order as often seen with the bass unit, should one not "agonize" here on the idea of a LR12 low pass ?
Ok aluminium bass are risky but after all Revel with the F208 uses aluminium, ceramic galvanized, cones with sucess in the low end ! Any idea of their cut-off , I don't remember Stereophile coments about that...
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Crossover at your baffle step frequency; IIRC, I used 2nd order on mine because the peaks are quite audible with 1st order
Edit: sorry, wrong driver, mine are the paper cone version. Alu with need a notch filter
Edit: sorry, wrong driver, mine are the paper cone version. Alu with need a notch filter
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