Aragon 8008bb.
amp works fine and I just installed new main psu caps ultra low ESL
I’m trying to get the amp to have more jump , faster transients
The tone is pretty neutral and I am thinking of bypass caps on main psu caps.
But I do see some amps use local driver board caps.
all I see on drover boards is 2 100uf caps
I’m no way am I saying the amp is bad I have had them many years.
my speakers are demanding. nom 4 ohms that goes down to 1.7 in upper Mids
Infinity IRS v are a handful.
anyone have any thoughts please advise I’m willing to try anything.
My main amps are ML 33 amd now I’m buying a krell FPB700 cx too.
I’m working on ML AMPS finishing the last of replacing caps.
So this amp will be back in for a couple of months
I have set bias to 20 mv amd will Listen and increase to max 30 mv
Even if I need a fan lol.
any ideas are very welcome.
The 4004mkii had 4 caps on driver boards per channel.
Advice please and please no bashing of good or bad amp ideals.
Al D
amp works fine and I just installed new main psu caps ultra low ESL
I’m trying to get the amp to have more jump , faster transients
The tone is pretty neutral and I am thinking of bypass caps on main psu caps.
But I do see some amps use local driver board caps.
all I see on drover boards is 2 100uf caps
I’m no way am I saying the amp is bad I have had them many years.
my speakers are demanding. nom 4 ohms that goes down to 1.7 in upper Mids
Infinity IRS v are a handful.
anyone have any thoughts please advise I’m willing to try anything.
My main amps are ML 33 amd now I’m buying a krell FPB700 cx too.
I’m working on ML AMPS finishing the last of replacing caps.
So this amp will be back in for a couple of months
I have set bias to 20 mv amd will Listen and increase to max 30 mv
Even if I need a fan lol.
any ideas are very welcome.
The 4004mkii had 4 caps on driver boards per channel.
Advice please and please no bashing of good or bad amp ideals.
Al D
If you are looking to change the sound, I would look at the input or output capacitors, not the supply caps. IMO
Several owners have commented on the amplifier being a "bit warm " but it generally gets a good write up as a "top quality amplifier " .
What I think you are talking about ( correct me if I am wrong ) is that you want more "speed " and a bit more "up front " .
I hope you achieve what you want but any amplifier I built for speed depended on the basic design and "fast " active components ,this meant careful layout -short distances between components -high quality components and to make it even harder a small value compensation capacitor .
It meant constantly watching the output for HF oscillation and that meant under load .
As Bullittstang says small changes can take place in the frequency response by changing input capacitors and any others in the signal path but you are changing an already good quality amplifier built to a particular design built to produce good quality music ---- I wish you luck.
What I think you are talking about ( correct me if I am wrong ) is that you want more "speed " and a bit more "up front " .
I hope you achieve what you want but any amplifier I built for speed depended on the basic design and "fast " active components ,this meant careful layout -short distances between components -high quality components and to make it even harder a small value compensation capacitor .
It meant constantly watching the output for HF oscillation and that meant under load .
As Bullittstang says small changes can take place in the frequency response by changing input capacitors and any others in the signal path but you are changing an already good quality amplifier built to a particular design built to produce good quality music ---- I wish you luck.
i get your points ill leave as is . i dont need issues doing this . the 4004 had a much better sound on my setup , i gave it to a bud when i got the ML 33 . thanks for the replies . i have it at 20 mv so far ill play with this a bit to maybe get a faster sound . over all its a great amp solid performer over all . its just i had a few amps that were more to my sound type . an gryphon i re capped was nice but had to be set on low class a bias and could not play at a good volume . the 4004 mkii after updating was levels better.
I actually have some direct experience listening to the 8008bb with a variety of components/speakers. It's a very nice amp but it is indeed very warm. I agree that changing the main power supply caps won't do anything to the sound. The warm sound is likely due to how they are biasing the amp into Class A (I believe it's biased pretty high to about 25 watts or so). You could try replacing the electrolytics on the amp board (there are only a couple) with something low ESR (though this is generally not recommended). Maybe a Nichicon PM cap (I've found these sound nice and are still a 105 degree cap).
To make the amp "jump" more, you are likely going to need to reduce the Class A bias down to something like 1-3 watts, but that is a whole new can of worms. lol. I am definitely not the person to advise on how to do this (if it's even a good idea).
To make the amp "jump" more, you are likely going to need to reduce the Class A bias down to something like 1-3 watts, but that is a whole new can of worms. lol. I am definitely not the person to advise on how to do this (if it's even a good idea).
thanks i agree in what you say . i replaced the main psu due to age . but from my experince the main psu caps can have a profound sound change as well. using by pass caps can help a bit too . but overall they cannot undue massive changes in design. regarding bias yes less class a more jump . regarding amp board caps ive changed them to nichicon same size. as of now i boosted it to 20 mv and will listen , then ill try lower as you state and compare. more class a on my setup is darker less more neutral . what i dont want is an amp that becomes unstable.
i really appreciate all replies , but i feel the amp will not be what i want lol.
i really appreciate all replies , but i feel the amp will not be what i want lol.