I have been reading up speaker desgin and DCR seem very interesting to build, but I dont understand why most of the desginer settle their mid bass chamber at the bottom of the speaker.
Take Merlin for example
Dayton RS-180 Double Chamber Reflex (DCR)
for better mid bass sounding shouldnt mid bass chamber should be located at the top of the cabinet. So the speaker structure should be upside down except the bass unit.
So our speaker arrangment would have Ported (mid bass), mid range driver , tweeter and Ported bass at the very bottom near the floor .
And for a tighter bass control,is it possible to replace the ported mid bass with passive radiator or should it be better to use dual pasive radiator replacing ported bass instead ?
The last question is, the ported Woofer, Mid, Tweeter arrangment might cause a headache in the crossover desgin, so it possible fix this problem by making a L shaped vent exiting port firing above the bass the port or simply creating a L shape or quadrangle mid-bass chamber which the port is firing back of the speaker but above the mid bass port.
For a reference driver to desgin lets assume we are desgining around the mid range driver is MW16p or MR16p
PS Sorry about my engish and not having photoshop to show my idea, but it seems the desgin of the final speaker arrangmet will be going to looks like audio physic tempo plus
Take Merlin for example
Dayton RS-180 Double Chamber Reflex (DCR)
for better mid bass sounding shouldnt mid bass chamber should be located at the top of the cabinet. So the speaker structure should be upside down except the bass unit.
So our speaker arrangment would have Ported (mid bass), mid range driver , tweeter and Ported bass at the very bottom near the floor .
And for a tighter bass control,is it possible to replace the ported mid bass with passive radiator or should it be better to use dual pasive radiator replacing ported bass instead ?
The last question is, the ported Woofer, Mid, Tweeter arrangment might cause a headache in the crossover desgin, so it possible fix this problem by making a L shaped vent exiting port firing above the bass the port or simply creating a L shape or quadrangle mid-bass chamber which the port is firing back of the speaker but above the mid bass port.
For a reference driver to desgin lets assume we are desgining around the mid range driver is MW16p or MR16p
PS Sorry about my engish and not having photoshop to show my idea, but it seems the desgin of the final speaker arrangmet will be going to looks like audio physic tempo plus
I also like putting the bass vent and midwoofer at the top as it gives the midbass more presence and also helps with time alignment but adding more delay to the tweeter. Sort of like a tilted (back) baffle with top tweeter. I did this with my PTT6.5 and RS28F in a waveguide. The TL output is above the midbass which is top mounted. More info here:
Simple Passive Harsch XO Using PTT6.5 and RS28F in a Waveguide
Regarding passive radiators on a DCR, very interesting idea. I have never seen that done before.
You could put the PR’s on the back wall and use two, each nominally same Sd as the main driver. The interconnected port could still be left as a tube. PRs are usually used to keep box volume much smaller for a given vent that would be really long. They avoid pipe harmonics of longer ports and don’t have air turbulence. However, they can transmit leaked mids so putting in back reduces this.
Dayton has some cost effective 6.5in PRs that I used. I added mass externally by glueing steel discs to the dustcap.
Simple Passive Harsch XO Using PTT6.5 and RS28F in a Waveguide
Regarding passive radiators on a DCR, very interesting idea. I have never seen that done before.
You could put the PR’s on the back wall and use two, each nominally same Sd as the main driver. The interconnected port could still be left as a tube. PRs are usually used to keep box volume much smaller for a given vent that would be really long. They avoid pipe harmonics of longer ports and don’t have air turbulence. However, they can transmit leaked mids so putting in back reduces this.
Dayton has some cost effective 6.5in PRs that I used. I added mass externally by glueing steel discs to the dustcap.