I only own only four items using tubes so no frequent need of a tube tester.
Yesterday, I spotted a local ad for a Sencore TC-114 "Mighty Mite" for $50 snd picked it up. No tube chart included but I downloaded a copy.
One tube that I would have occasion to test are 6AU7's and the chart explains that....
...."for (their) tube tester models without a socket #13 a 6EU7 tube inserts into socket #3 with a jumper wire between pin 5 & pin 1".
This TC-114 is a model without a socket #13. Would the accepted method mearly be to wrap a thin, non-insulated wire around those tube pins prior to insertion or something more elaborate?
Yesterday, I spotted a local ad for a Sencore TC-114 "Mighty Mite" for $50 snd picked it up. No tube chart included but I downloaded a copy.
One tube that I would have occasion to test are 6AU7's and the chart explains that....
...."for (their) tube tester models without a socket #13 a 6EU7 tube inserts into socket #3 with a jumper wire between pin 5 & pin 1".
This TC-114 is a model without a socket #13. Would the accepted method mearly be to wrap a thin, non-insulated wire around those tube pins prior to insertion or something more elaborate?
You want to test a ---6AU7 tube ---right ?---not a 6EU7 ? The base connections are not compatible. It would be easier to make a convertor for a 12AU7 then you only have one pin to deal with ---pin 9. Having said all that I downloaded the manual it shows the settings for a 6AU7 which is- A=6 B=D C=10 D=B---or G As I said the ONLY difference between the settings for the the 12AU7 is setting ---A which is 12 . Its obvious that "A" is the HEATER setting . BOTH these settings are in your manual.
Typing 6AU7 was an error.
It should have been 6EU7 which the manual states jumping pins is necessary to test.
Unlike my AVO VCM mk4 or my older /smaller Taylor valve tester 45C both of which I renovated /uprated your tester book doesn't show all the coding for the positions otherwise I could have worked out the connections for adding an additional tube base ( base #13 ) as I got fed up making tube convertors and just wired in new type bases like the B9D/B10B.
I could spend a ( good ) bit of time working yours out as "A"= Heater voltage but maybe you could diy as you have the unit in front of you.
I could spend a ( good ) bit of time working yours out as "A"= Heater voltage but maybe you could diy as you have the unit in front of you.
Just my thoughts.
I would think that if you want to test many 6EU7's than making an adapter would be best. But if you just have to test a few, I would probably also use a wire, but with two small diameter rings on bot sides and leaving the isolating mantle of the wire as intact as possible, so to minimize the chance on shorts with other pins. Best would be if the diameter of the opening in the rings is the same as the diameter of the tube pins, so the two rings make good contact with the two pins.
I would think that if you want to test many 6EU7's than making an adapter would be best. But if you just have to test a few, I would probably also use a wire, but with two small diameter rings on bot sides and leaving the isolating mantle of the wire as intact as possible, so to minimize the chance on shorts with other pins. Best would be if the diameter of the opening in the rings is the same as the diameter of the tube pins, so the two rings make good contact with the two pins.
That was my thought as well.
I had begun trying to adapt the inside strip of a broken mini-graber. While bending an end into a small enough loop to encircle a pin, I was called to dinner. Will continue the effort in the morning.