I am trying to build a budget subwoofer, for HT. I will probably be looking into car subwoofers as I am in Asia, where all these Daytons and other subs aren't available.
I came across this amp on aliexpress, which comes with a supply, and is 1000w.
The board contains: (power supply + amplifier) 1000W
Features:
1. Power supply voltage AC220v input, can also be set to AC110V input.
2. The power is large, and the fan needs to be added for the heat. From the right digital power amplifier section to the left switching power supply section.
3. Frequency response: 20HZ--20KHZ
4. RMS power: 500W
5. Speaker load: 4-8Ω
6. Temperature protection: The temperature of the radiator rises to 85 ℃, the protection starts automatically, and the power amplifier stops working. After the radiator temperature drops, the power amplifier automatically starts to work.
7. Overload protection: overload will protect you!
8. Horn protection: The output has DC, the relay is disconnected, and the speaker is protected! .
9. Anti-shock: NTC thermistor at startup to prevent inrush current!
10. Delay start of the relay.
11.length 200X width 130X height 42mm
What's the catch?! It has great reviews too.
Should this amp be good enough for any subwoofer I get my hands on?
1000W AMP 1KW Amplifier IRS2092 +RIFP4227 x2 High Power Digital Amplifier Board Subwoofer Full Frequency Stage Amp Board H130|Amplifier| - AliExpress
I came across this amp on aliexpress, which comes with a supply, and is 1000w.
The board contains: (power supply + amplifier) 1000W
Features:
1. Power supply voltage AC220v input, can also be set to AC110V input.
2. The power is large, and the fan needs to be added for the heat. From the right digital power amplifier section to the left switching power supply section.
3. Frequency response: 20HZ--20KHZ
4. RMS power: 500W
5. Speaker load: 4-8Ω
6. Temperature protection: The temperature of the radiator rises to 85 ℃, the protection starts automatically, and the power amplifier stops working. After the radiator temperature drops, the power amplifier automatically starts to work.
7. Overload protection: overload will protect you!
8. Horn protection: The output has DC, the relay is disconnected, and the speaker is protected! .
9. Anti-shock: NTC thermistor at startup to prevent inrush current!
10. Delay start of the relay.
11.length 200X width 130X height 42mm
What's the catch?! It has great reviews too.
Should this amp be good enough for any subwoofer I get my hands on?
1000W AMP 1KW Amplifier IRS2092 +RIFP4227 x2 High Power Digital Amplifier Board Subwoofer Full Frequency Stage Amp Board H130|Amplifier| - AliExpress
Even for a class-D amp this looks a bit small and heatsinking inadequate. The Fan must be used but even with that the heatsink airflow looks a bit sketchy. Fan = noise. Do you want that?
Let's examine the potential power output. Max PS rails are listed as +/- 80Vdc. The output devices will have a couple of volts drop across them, so let's say you can get up to 77V (peak) out of the amp. To convert to RMS, multiply by 0.707. That gives Vrms max of about 54.5V. Use Ohms law: power=V^2/R to calculate output power in Watts. I get (54.5)^2/8 = 371 Watts into 8 Ohms, which doubles to 742 Watts into 4 Ohms. I very much doubt you can operate the amp into lower loads that 4 Ohms. Higher power might be delivered into the load, but the output will be clipped. You MIGHT be able to get 1000W into 4 Ohms at 10% distortion, but not for long.
This looks like an over-hyped, under designed product. Not all that surprising. What did you expect for $56?
If you lower your expectations in terms of power to the 250 into 8R and 500W into 4R range this is about the same as other IRS2092 amp boards out there. No doubt it "works" but just not up to the specs given by the seller. It would be prudent to use less than the maximum supply voltages and this will reduce heat generation.
Let's examine the potential power output. Max PS rails are listed as +/- 80Vdc. The output devices will have a couple of volts drop across them, so let's say you can get up to 77V (peak) out of the amp. To convert to RMS, multiply by 0.707. That gives Vrms max of about 54.5V. Use Ohms law: power=V^2/R to calculate output power in Watts. I get (54.5)^2/8 = 371 Watts into 8 Ohms, which doubles to 742 Watts into 4 Ohms. I very much doubt you can operate the amp into lower loads that 4 Ohms. Higher power might be delivered into the load, but the output will be clipped. You MIGHT be able to get 1000W into 4 Ohms at 10% distortion, but not for long.
This looks like an over-hyped, under designed product. Not all that surprising. What did you expect for $56?
If you lower your expectations in terms of power to the 250 into 8R and 500W into 4R range this is about the same as other IRS2092 amp boards out there. No doubt it "works" but just not up to the specs given by the seller. It would be prudent to use less than the maximum supply voltages and this will reduce heat generation.
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Probably. Many here would want you to start with a "goal" for db SPL at some frequency target, like "30". Of course only those who'd advise you to start off that way have a clue as to what that means. It sounds like you want it loud, just because you're looking at 1000W amps. What's "loud" for HT at 30Hz? I've no idea; 100, 110, 120db?
>for any subwoofer I get my hands on?
It depends on the sub. If the sub's efficiency (db SPL / W) allows it to be driven by this amp's power output - AND reach the db SPL goal you want, then it's "good enough". How does that work? Let's say a candidate sub box is 88 db spl / 1w. If you put 10W into it, you'll get 10db more, or 98. Put 100W, brings it to 108. Put 1000W, now you're at 118. If your goal was 120, you need to pick a ...slightly more efficient sub box. Or be satisfied with 118.
It's a system integration problem, to meet a pre-specified criteria. There's numbers you can chase that show how this works. This is just the "raw" stuff, without considering the room you're putting this thing into. System and room integration, now there's some real acoustic engineering art and skill!
ref: Security check
>for any subwoofer I get my hands on?
It depends on the sub. If the sub's efficiency (db SPL / W) allows it to be driven by this amp's power output - AND reach the db SPL goal you want, then it's "good enough". How does that work? Let's say a candidate sub box is 88 db spl / 1w. If you put 10W into it, you'll get 10db more, or 98. Put 100W, brings it to 108. Put 1000W, now you're at 118. If your goal was 120, you need to pick a ...slightly more efficient sub box. Or be satisfied with 118.
It's a system integration problem, to meet a pre-specified criteria. There's numbers you can chase that show how this works. This is just the "raw" stuff, without considering the room you're putting this thing into. System and room integration, now there's some real acoustic engineering art and skill!
ref: Security check
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Hi
this amp board looks similar to this one:
some try tese amps and found some interesting you may have to change...please read both threads
Ebay amp - is 500W believable?
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/cla...eventing-fried-zobel-network.html#post5606355
chris
this amp board looks similar to this one:
some try tese amps and found some interesting you may have to change...please read both threads
Ebay amp - is 500W believable?
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/cla...eventing-fried-zobel-network.html#post5606355
chris
