Hi all!
I wonder if people might be able to give their advice on this, please:
Hopefully I am moving soon and the place has just been rewired (UK NICS cert.) and I need to build a rack for my system that has to run from either one or two (depending on suggestions) mains sockets.
Gear:
Computer
USB Sound Card
MiniDSP 8x8
Parasound Zamp Amplifiers x 2 (mids and tweeters)
Behringer NU1000 (stereo sealed subs)
Furman M10X Power Distribution
The caveats are:
- Computer and MiniDSP must be on at all times
- The rest of the system including TV/monitor must be powered on by the Furman power unit.
- Ideally should be run from one power socket if possible
I don't jam dat volume too hard but watch do movies with dynamics. I can't imagine I draw that much current for the whole shebang.
Attached is a schematic (and blank) of the system. Apologies for the fruity-tooty colour scheme.
What do you lot think? This is basically how it is now and I get bad noise from the USB soundcard but I think that's another issue to do with the cheap PSU in the computer and/or unavoidable system noise from ground loops.
If you have time to have a look and make a suggestion it would be most appreciated.
Cheers!
I wonder if people might be able to give their advice on this, please:
Hopefully I am moving soon and the place has just been rewired (UK NICS cert.) and I need to build a rack for my system that has to run from either one or two (depending on suggestions) mains sockets.
Gear:
Computer
USB Sound Card
MiniDSP 8x8
Parasound Zamp Amplifiers x 2 (mids and tweeters)
Behringer NU1000 (stereo sealed subs)
Furman M10X Power Distribution
The caveats are:
- Computer and MiniDSP must be on at all times
- The rest of the system including TV/monitor must be powered on by the Furman power unit.
- Ideally should be run from one power socket if possible
I don't jam dat volume too hard but watch do movies with dynamics. I can't imagine I draw that much current for the whole shebang.
Attached is a schematic (and blank) of the system. Apologies for the fruity-tooty colour scheme.
What do you lot think? This is basically how it is now and I get bad noise from the USB soundcard but I think that's another issue to do with the cheap PSU in the computer and/or unavoidable system noise from ground loops.
If you have time to have a look and make a suggestion it would be most appreciated.
Cheers!
Attachments
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Nobody knows how much power these things run? Or are you asking for a look-up service? (I can tell you a Plasma TV's power demand varies a LOT with program. And I bet with size.)
The Zamp is a 100W box. The NU100 is <100W idle, 1000W for a few seconds of thunder.
Unless the computer is one of those Mac-renderers with $800 casters, it's <200W.
So maybe half a 230V 13A outlet. No reason the whole magilla can't go on one plug. Since you wish to use the Furman as a switch, get a $19 Waber (US slang) to take the wall-juice, feed the always-on loads (also any laser printer), and feed the Furman.
What is "computer" Properly grounded (earthed) desktop? Or flaptop (usually safe but not clean)?
Why DVI? Even _I_ know what a HMDI (HDMI??) cable is now. I found one on a $160 ChromeBook, and approve.
The Zamp is a 100W box. The NU100 is <100W idle, 1000W for a few seconds of thunder.
Unless the computer is one of those Mac-renderers with $800 casters, it's <200W.
So maybe half a 230V 13A outlet. No reason the whole magilla can't go on one plug. Since you wish to use the Furman as a switch, get a $19 Waber (US slang) to take the wall-juice, feed the always-on loads (also any laser printer), and feed the Furman.
What is "computer" Properly grounded (earthed) desktop? Or flaptop (usually safe but not clean)?
Why DVI? Even _I_ know what a HMDI (HDMI??) cable is now. I found one on a $160 ChromeBook, and approve.
Hi, cheers for response.
Yes, earthed desktop and I dont know why I wrote dvi, it was late. It is indeed hdmi.
So the circuit above is, in your opinion optimal?
Yes, earthed desktop and I dont know why I wrote dvi, it was late. It is indeed hdmi.
So the circuit above is, in your opinion optimal?
230V * 16A is 3680W, unless You are using 1.5 Sqmm in wall wiring & should use 10A breakers, even so it's 2300W. Do You need more power ?
Switching PSUs usually have inrush current limiters built in.
For curing soundcard buzzing use an 2 prong PSU (non earthed) with the laptop.
Many newer laptops come now standard with it or buy an aftermarket one.
That's what I did with my Toshiba for Djing.
Switching PSUs usually have inrush current limiters built in.
For curing soundcard buzzing use an 2 prong PSU (non earthed) with the laptop.
Many newer laptops come now standard with it or buy an aftermarket one.
That's what I did with my Toshiba for Djing.
> circuit above is,
Seriously: _I_ would get the clean (audio) power earth FROM the utility earth at the PC. Not several meters further down the line. ONE connection to house power.
(I do not know if plain power "strips" are legal in the UK. They are sure less common than in the US.)
Seriously: _I_ would get the clean (audio) power earth FROM the utility earth at the PC. Not several meters further down the line. ONE connection to house power.
(I do not know if plain power "strips" are legal in the UK. They are sure less common than in the US.)
Attachments
Regarding the ground loop issues, I'm seeing some things that are at least suspicious:
The Z Amp appears to be an IEC Class I device with only unbalanced (RCA) inputs, which is just asking for trouble really.
I'm assuming the PC is the usual Class I job, as is the sub amp.
All in all not an environment you want unbalanced connections in.
I'd suggest the following:
Get some line isolators for the Z Amps. Preferably ones that do not suck.
Get a USB audio interface with balanced outputs.
Use the balanced inputs available on the MiniDSP, and the balanced output for the sub amp.
The Z Amp appears to be an IEC Class I device with only unbalanced (RCA) inputs, which is just asking for trouble really.
I'm assuming the PC is the usual Class I job, as is the sub amp.
All in all not an environment you want unbalanced connections in.
I'd suggest the following:
Get some line isolators for the Z Amps. Preferably ones that do not suck.
Get a USB audio interface with balanced outputs.
Use the balanced inputs available on the MiniDSP, and the balanced output for the sub amp.
Thanks, yes, they are common in the UK and I'll do that. Thanks for the diagram and input.
Yes, it has been a problem for a while. I have tried a balanced connection from a Behringer USB interface but the noise remains. I already have balanced connections to sub amp. There is a ground lift on one of the Zamps but this has no effect.
I've been looking for a reasonably priced amp with balanced inputs for mids and tweeter for some time. I have the 3E audio 4x100w TPA3251 but haven't got round to setting it up and tbh I don't need that kind of power in my front room. So, have been reluctant to put it together with the meanwell 350w PSU and a chassis.
Would you mind suggesting isolators for the Zamps, please? It is difficult to know what does and doesn't suck as I have no experience in this area of equipment.
EDIT. Quick search comes back with this that would do for 2 channels single ended.
Behringer MICROHD Hum Destroyer HD400: Amazon.co.uk: Musical Instruments
Cheers!
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So I did some reading - some people swear by them and otherwise some feel they are comparable to putting your genitals in a wasps nest (not desirable). Jensen seem to make the market leading units but they are beyond my reach ATM.
Units like this with 8 ins and outs look useful but there are no specs other than "extremely flat".
ART T8 – Thomann UK
Anyway, I ordered a new (refurb) computer yesterday which will test my theory that it is the PSU and associated bad USB power/data that is causing the issues. I also think the rented house I am in at the moment has some wiring issues so hopefully that will be a thing of the past once the mortgage gets sorted (I hope I don't read this in a few months time having had it fall through and still be in this rented flat).
Units like this with 8 ins and outs look useful but there are no specs other than "extremely flat".
ART T8 – Thomann UK
Anyway, I ordered a new (refurb) computer yesterday which will test my theory that it is the PSU and associated bad USB power/data that is causing the issues. I also think the rented house I am in at the moment has some wiring issues so hopefully that will be a thing of the past once the mortgage gets sorted (I hope I don't read this in a few months time having had it fall through and still be in this rented flat).
> no specs other than "extremely flat".
The datasheet is on the Thomann page you linked. Are there any nymbers in there?
ART T8 – Thomann UK
https://images.static-thomann.de/pics/atg/atgdata/document/manual/180270_specs.pdf
The datasheet is on the Thomann page you linked. Are there any nymbers in there?
ART T8 – Thomann UK
https://images.static-thomann.de/pics/atg/atgdata/document/manual/180270_specs.pdf