Hi guys
I need your advice. I am looking for a mid-range self build. I have a CNC and the required tools, so can do the cabinets myself, but I don't have the knowledge and the desire to design a cross-overs myself, so want to opt for something existing that is proven and sounds good.
I am open minded as to what type of speaker - floorstander, compact on stands, etc.
My sound style is literally across the the full range of music styles (classic to hard rock) with Jazz/Fusion my most listened to genre. Thus, I need something that is a good allrounder with a top mid-range. I do enjoy a solid, tight, clean base, but nothing crazy.
While looking around, I came came across a few open source designs by good driver manufacturers, like:
- ARA – Sbacoustics (driver cost £401)
- Arya – Sbacoustics (driver cost £1052)
- IDUNN (driver cost £306)
Are those designs any good? I think both SB and Seas have an excellent reputation. Or could you point me in another direction where I could find a good open source design (cabinet & cross-over)?
Thanks very much for your help.
Phil
I need your advice. I am looking for a mid-range self build. I have a CNC and the required tools, so can do the cabinets myself, but I don't have the knowledge and the desire to design a cross-overs myself, so want to opt for something existing that is proven and sounds good.
I am open minded as to what type of speaker - floorstander, compact on stands, etc.
My sound style is literally across the the full range of music styles (classic to hard rock) with Jazz/Fusion my most listened to genre. Thus, I need something that is a good allrounder with a top mid-range. I do enjoy a solid, tight, clean base, but nothing crazy.
While looking around, I came came across a few open source designs by good driver manufacturers, like:
- ARA – Sbacoustics (driver cost £401)
- Arya – Sbacoustics (driver cost £1052)
- IDUNN (driver cost £306)
Are those designs any good? I think both SB and Seas have an excellent reputation. Or could you point me in another direction where I could find a good open source design (cabinet & cross-over)?
Thanks very much for your help.
Phil
Last edited:
Depends what you fancy - there are lots of designs out there.
I recently finished a pair of speakers where the design goals were:
- To have all diaphragms operating in their piston ranges (ie, cone motion follows voice coil motion perfectly)
- Some directivity control
- Preferably 2-way
That combination pretty much mandates a compression driver, so I used the pair of B&C DE250 and 18Sound XT120 horns which I had on-hand. Picked up a pair of Seas H1252-08, added a 950Hz crossover, and have enjoyed the sound ever since.
It's been a revelation to be able to put music on and just enjoy it, rather than wanting to adjust this or that.
If I had the cash and inclination to do a "high-end" version, I'd use the Seas Excel 8" and one of the latest 1" compression drivers from 18Sound.
The high sensitivity of the compression drivers means they're padded down by about 20dB. ie, you could add more woofers for increased LF sensitivity/output, and alter the L-pad to match.
For me, an 8" per side in a closed box is plenty for domestic listening, but others may want more.
Chris
I recently finished a pair of speakers where the design goals were:
- To have all diaphragms operating in their piston ranges (ie, cone motion follows voice coil motion perfectly)
- Some directivity control
- Preferably 2-way
That combination pretty much mandates a compression driver, so I used the pair of B&C DE250 and 18Sound XT120 horns which I had on-hand. Picked up a pair of Seas H1252-08, added a 950Hz crossover, and have enjoyed the sound ever since.
It's been a revelation to be able to put music on and just enjoy it, rather than wanting to adjust this or that.
If I had the cash and inclination to do a "high-end" version, I'd use the Seas Excel 8" and one of the latest 1" compression drivers from 18Sound.
The high sensitivity of the compression drivers means they're padded down by about 20dB. ie, you could add more woofers for increased LF sensitivity/output, and alter the L-pad to match.
For me, an 8" per side in a closed box is plenty for domestic listening, but others may want more.
Chris
For clear mid range I would opt for a 3 ways design with a dedicated mid driver.
Have a look at the Speaker Design Works Statement Monitor or Finalist for stand mounts or the Troels Graveson SBA741.
or if you ant to go floor standers then the Ceramicos by Shadzi/Bagbi detailed on Facebook may do the job - 2x8" sealed bass, 5" mid and 1" ceramic tweeter in a modest size floor stander.
Have a look at the Speaker Design Works Statement Monitor or Finalist for stand mounts or the Troels Graveson SBA741.
or if you ant to go floor standers then the Ceramicos by Shadzi/Bagbi detailed on Facebook may do the job - 2x8" sealed bass, 5" mid and 1" ceramic tweeter in a modest size floor stander.
I agree on a 3-way. The critical mid-band sounds best when there is a dedicated mid range driver. There are exceptions of course. Cone drivers in the 4 to 5 inch size are best as far as I am concerned. Domes can't go as low as a cone generally. A cone driver smaller than 4 inch doesn't do bass very well and above 5 inch doesn't do upper mids and lower trebles as well. Again, exceptions as always. I am using a MA Full Range 4 inch for an extended range mid with very good results. It is clean and accurate; most mid drivers in the same price range aren't nearly as articulate or musically satisfying.