Just received a new Aiyima TPA3251 from Amazon US and it is the now rare black board version!!. Unfortunately the shaft of the on/off switch is loose and a bit springy. Assuming that it is not meant to be like that and I don't want to send it back, has anyone replaced their switch and if so could you send a part number as I'm not sure what type of toggle switch it is?
I am not sure about the part number. What I know that it is an DPDT Switch. maybe you can look for some small Push button/soft touch DPDT available.
Let the Gurus guide you!
Let the Gurus guide you!
Try RS.
RS PRO DPDT Toggle Switch, Latching, PCB | RS Components
Check the dimensions on the datasheet to see if it matches.
RS PRO DPDT Toggle Switch, Latching, PCB | RS Components
Check the dimensions on the datasheet to see if it matches.
That's great, thanks a lot, dimensions seem spot on, RS out of stock until September but I'm on the right track now. Not sure if existing switch works or not as the power supply hasn't arrived yet to test it.
So the dodgy switch got me thinking about the electrical safety of these amps. Now that the newer chips need more power there is a move away from double insulated wall warts to the chassis style Meanwell Switchers. Connecting one of these to the Aiyima via the DC socket provides no earth to the case and there is nothing about the Aiyima that tells me it is double insulated. If the Aiyima case goes live, where is the protection?
The Aiyima doesn't need to be double insulated. It is powered by low voltage DC, not mains.
The power supply must meet the relevant safety standards for mains powered equipment.
The power supply must meet the relevant safety standards for mains powered equipment.
Plan B - would anyone know which legs on the switch to short out to bypass the switch and leave the amp permanently on (switch from power supply instead)?
The RS switch is an ON-ON type, not sure how that works on this board? I tested the amp yesterday and the switch is definitively faulty. I can wiggle it and get the "on" led to light momentarily and wiggle some more and the blue leds around the volume pot light up but I can't get both at the same time. I think the best option is to bypass the switch and have the amp in a permanently on state but I'm not sure which pins to connect.
So I shorted the 2 lower leg pairs on the switch to bypass the switching but there is a power on pop when I switch on the power supply. I am guessing I have also bypassed the anti pop circuit?
Haven't desoldered for years and it showed!! lifted the pad on the first large leg from the switch and gave up. Not sure what this was connected to but it didn't come into play when I shorted the lower legs so I am hoping to still rescue this board. Thought about keeping the switch bypassed and using something like this Softstart Module 230V 15A for Amplifiers - Audiophonics in the power supply to stop this power on pop, would this be any good??
russc to my rescue again, thanks. I'm still inclined to bypass the switch especially now that I have lifted one pad already from the board. I thought that the Audiophonics soft start board at the power supply would be a neat solution to the power on pop and would make swapping in other amps with the same pop easier.
yes the RS switch does match the original. not sure what configuration the original is, the RS is an ON -ON
The soft start is intended for high power transformers to limit inrush current.
I would guess you have a switchmode power supply which would not benefit from this and it may even be harmful.
1 - do you know if the amplifier pops as supplied?
2 - If you really don't want to remove the original switch from the pads, cut the legs & solder new switch to old legs. I don't think you'd have a problem removing as I suggested though.
I would guess you have a switchmode power supply which would not benefit from this and it may even be harmful.
1 - do you know if the amplifier pops as supplied?
2 - If you really don't want to remove the original switch from the pads, cut the legs & solder new switch to old legs. I don't think you'd have a problem removing as I suggested though.
Given the switch has 6 contacts then it is certainly a DPDT switch.
Just because the switch is on-on does not mean every contact is actually used.
Just because the switch is on-on does not mean every contact is actually used.
Well I was hoping that the pad I lifted was on a leg that wasn't used, it certainly had no impact when I shorted the other 2 pairs. As I have the power on pop on a new black board I assumed I had somehow bypassed the boards anti pop circuit?
Forgot to add that before shorting the switch I had to very carefully wiggle it to get it to work and at this stage there was no pop. The pop has only appeared after bypassing the switching function.