Hi all
I was wondering if someone could advise me on where to look for a problem with my TEAC. Its a integrated amp built around 1971. Is very well built and was working fine when I bought it about 10 years ago. About five years ago the preamp stopped working. Amplifier works fine and I can plug in a source direct to the amp and everything works as it should.
Both channels arent working on the preamp, no sound nothing.
Checked the power to the control amp board and seems fine.
All the caps look good. Checked all the wiring and circuit boards with the multi meter continuity buzzer and cant find anything.
Checked the soldered joints all look good, redone a few just in case.
Checked all the switches.
Everything looks clean and unmolested.
Probably something simple I have missed, weird its both channels.
Here is the service manual if anyone cared to help. Thanks.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...e-Manual.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3_Be8aP0T0tBJ4Pn0_BZFQ
I was wondering if someone could advise me on where to look for a problem with my TEAC. Its a integrated amp built around 1971. Is very well built and was working fine when I bought it about 10 years ago. About five years ago the preamp stopped working. Amplifier works fine and I can plug in a source direct to the amp and everything works as it should.
Both channels arent working on the preamp, no sound nothing.
Checked the power to the control amp board and seems fine.
All the caps look good. Checked all the wiring and circuit boards with the multi meter continuity buzzer and cant find anything.
Checked the soldered joints all look good, redone a few just in case.
Checked all the switches.
Everything looks clean and unmolested.
Probably something simple I have missed, weird its both channels.
Here is the service manual if anyone cared to help. Thanks.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...e-Manual.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3_Be8aP0T0tBJ4Pn0_BZFQ
Last edited:
DC Test voltages chart (p.19)?
Your amp has an amp / preamp toggle switch. Check for 0 ohm.
Touching a screwdriver installed in the signal path gives "bzz" at a reduced volume. (Power amplifier input) - (Separate / Norm) - (Filter switch) - (Potentiometer) - (Control amp) - (Coo2) - (Coo4) -etc.
There may be bad electrolytic capacitors C915, C916, C903, C904, C911, C912
Your amp has an amp / preamp toggle switch. Check for 0 ohm.
Touching a screwdriver installed in the signal path gives "bzz" at a reduced volume. (Power amplifier input) - (Separate / Norm) - (Filter switch) - (Potentiometer) - (Control amp) - (Coo2) - (Coo4) -etc.
There may be bad electrolytic capacitors C915, C916, C903, C904, C911, C912
DC Test voltages chart (p.19)?
Your amp has an amp / preamp toggle switch. Check for 0 ohm.
Touching a screwdriver installed in the signal path gives "bzz" at a reduced volume. (Power amplifier input) - (Separate / Norm) - (Filter switch) - (Potentiometer) - (Control amp) - (Coo2) - (Coo4) -etc.
There may be bad electrolytic capacitors C915, C916, C903, C904, C911, C912
Yippee, its working again. Started on the only cap on the control panel that was on both circuits C925, was measuring 60 uf when it should be 47, but I didnt have a replacement so resoldered and turned it on and all working again. Solder looked good, but mustn't been.
Thanks
Thanks