I was CAD doodling yesterday and came up with a rather sleek-looking bass reflex for the Tectonic TEBM36S12 that can be printed in a single piece (though it will need splitting up to fit out). The part I can't quite figure out is where to put the connectors and what form the stand should take. For the stand, a profile that joins on at the front would allow it to be printed with the speaker without using supports. I would really appreciate examples of anything similar which I could s̶t̶e̶a̶l̶ adapt for this design. The only thing slightly similar which I could find is the top half of the B&W Nautilus.
On the driver front, could anyone suggest a decent sub-£100/pair driver that's less than 100mm outer diameter? I'm not set on using the Tectonics, I just had them to hand for another project and had the parameters plugged into Transmission Line.
Thank you.
On the driver front, could anyone suggest a decent sub-£100/pair driver that's less than 100mm outer diameter? I'm not set on using the Tectonics, I just had them to hand for another project and had the parameters plugged into Transmission Line.
Thank you.
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Be careful with round sharp edged baffles - they are the worst offenders for diffraction induced ripples as high as 6dB. You can see why speakers are rectangular (or better yet, trapezoids). But if you put a large radius rounover from the driver to the cylinder wall, it will be very good. It is about minimizing sudden step functions of the same length.
Diffraction from baffle edges
Diffraction from baffle edges
Thank you for the recommendation, perceval.
XRK, that's extremely helpful, it's a shame it spoils the easy printability. A fillet on that edge means the printer has to contend with an incredibly steep overhang and, even with supports, it's not going to look clean. I'm sure I can figure out how to cut it up if it's absolutely necessary but I wonder if using a combined chamfer to bring the edge right up to the perimeter of the driver (easier with a circular driver) with a fillet further back might be sufficient. Alternatively, am I right in thinking that offsetting the driver from the central axis would help (since it would produce continuously varying distance from the baffle edge to the driver)?
XRK, that's extremely helpful, it's a shame it spoils the easy printability. A fillet on that edge means the printer has to contend with an incredibly steep overhang and, even with supports, it's not going to look clean. I'm sure I can figure out how to cut it up if it's absolutely necessary but I wonder if using a combined chamfer to bring the edge right up to the perimeter of the driver (easier with a circular driver) with a fillet further back might be sufficient. Alternatively, am I right in thinking that offsetting the driver from the central axis would help (since it would produce continuously varying distance from the baffle edge to the driver)?
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Offset helps but only if baffle dia is large enough, and even then, round over is better. You can get pretty nice finish on a spheroid as long as it’s gradual. No support needed. A “bullet” does have a large radius in general. Instead of angled straight chamfer, make a large 2in radius round over.
Sorry, I think the renders might be a bit deceptive, I'm planning to print it (FDM) with the front baffle facing the bed. However, I could split the baffle up into a ring with the edge on that prints the other way up or just add a wider ring that slips over the front. Thanks for saving me from wasting quite a bit of filament.
Take a look at the design of the B&W Nautilus series, particularly the midrange and tweeters, as well as the KEF Blade / Muon. It’s probably fair to say that these two firms invested substantially in R&D on not only driver technology but also effect of enclosure geometries and material science and construction methods in the evolution of these models.
Thanks chrisb, I found an older Nautilus design (tweeter is more separate from the main body) and I could probably make the front section spherical if I taper the back (inside) of the front baffle (not doing so would require incredible amounts of supports). Time to fire up Transmission Line and see how that plays out.
What X suggested. A bit more flare at the baffle, to make the shape more like a teardrop. A lot of R&D went into the Nautulis midbox shape.
I woud also tend toward a TL configuration, and look to add a helper woofer.
The drivers i have used that i like and might be suitable are FF85wk, Alpair 5.2/3 and Faital Pro 3F22.
I would not be averse to printing it in a top half and a bottom half or a front bit and a back bit. The last might make for the possibility of more build volume. For the drivers mentioned 2.5 litres net internal volume is good. 2 litres will work. If. amidTweter larger would not hurt.
Internal shape different than outside.
dave
I woud also tend toward a TL configuration, and look to add a helper woofer.
The drivers i have used that i like and might be suitable are FF85wk, Alpair 5.2/3 and Faital Pro 3F22.
I would not be averse to printing it in a top half and a bottom half or a front bit and a back bit. The last might make for the possibility of more build volume. For the drivers mentioned 2.5 litres net internal volume is good. 2 litres will work. If. amidTweter larger would not hurt.
Internal shape different than outside.
dave
The Nautaloss is also very effective at absorbing the rear wave and not adding coloration.
The Nautaloss Ref Monitor
The Nautaloss Ref Monitor
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